Tap the level? I never heard of it....I was taught to put it at a slight angle along the front edge of the course and hold with one hand and range the couses with the trowel in the other hand.When you put up leads you tap the level all day long. On a chimney this is how I do the sides.....tap tap tap
I use the shove method and when things are right its almost 3 brick to 1 advantage. If u angle plow it slightly most of the motar comes to the ouside head joint... just before it homes in I throw off any mud and quickley paste a little to the incoming brick's outer edge with the back tip of the trowel... it stops excess fall out and avoids tuckpointing the heads. No mud is dropped behind the wall as I was taught to take the trowel and slick it upward a bit half way into the process before it falls and cloggs the air space. It sounds labor intensive but it becomes second nature and very fast. Tapping isn't needed but it happen and quite common on chimneys etc. The most impotant thing is keeping the brick moist and mortar plastic then jointing is a cinch.A shove joint here is a unit pressed into final position while the head and bed joints are extruding some mortar. not the 'slush' joint you described.
I use the cut off mud to wet the edge(s) of the right hand head joint so the buttered unit's mortar fill the head joint completely eliminating the need for "tuckpointing" prior to tooling the joints.
Your previous source fails to test the loss of tensile and torsional strength caused by the hammer techinque.
Masonry Engineers rarely test for either because its so much cheaper to do a squeeze test than the others
How do you ensure the bed joint is still in 100% contact with all Four units after impact? The fact that you have to increase the pressure several, 10 ,20 100 x over just the strength of your arm/shoulder creates voids when the pressure ends and the mortar stops flowing to fill the voids created during the impact event.
If I had a friend, one that never worked on my walls, and he insisted on tapping units, I suggest waiting till the whole course was laid and then doing them all at once... to lower the lost production....
If your mortar is so weak that a few psi is needed, add some portland, take out some of the lime dust...
I can't ever see tapping units laid to a line as a bonafide bricklaying method... I could be wrong...But it is very very unlikely in this case.
Just a small joke, relax a little. :thumbsup:My customers pay me for what I already know, not what I'll learn on their building... I'll use that in the future.
Would you hire a Doctor that was learning while working on you?:confused1:
When you finish school, what do you want to do NJ?