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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Servicing leaky strip miters can be tough to get clean for one then get in there with new sealant with a 2 layer roof hanging deep inside.

I wondererd about that flexseal stuff on TV if anyone has tried this stuff. It would be much neater to coat the joint level. Anything you smudge in there gets built up and creates a little obstruction.
 

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water re-locater
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have never used that stuff would be curious to see how it holds up over time..geocel 2320 is only way to go . amazing stuff:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Im a geocel guy too was curious about this stuff though. Like you say I dont know how flexible it stays long term. Maybe I will be the guinny pig.
 

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water re-locater
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im tempted to use it on my shed or something just to satisfy my curiosity ..Ive gone back to houses ive done 15 years ago with geo and still in perfect shape, but the guy on tv made a boat out of a screen door with flex so must be amazing stuff :laughing:
 

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water re-locater
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id be more concerned about the freezing and thawing and expansion and contraction aspect...let me know if you go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How do you service them, disassemble coat & reconnect or scrape them in place and top it off?
 

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And we are trusting consumer reports now?

The spray doesn't work. You are better letting the gutters loose 5-6 feet back in either direction and getting in there and clean the gutter sealant out, re attaching and then Geoseal.

If it's not too high up bring your wife- she can grit her hand in there better and you will gain a new ground respect from her. :thumbsup:
 

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Just got a can of clear flexal and tried some on half of some card board and threw it out in the yard for a week of rainstorms. Only to find that one side of the cardboard had some protectant on it anyway. Shesh. ...next I will coat the inside of a small cardboard box and see if it can become a bucket of water (but the box has to WANT to change)

Side note though. Just started using lexel and the Dap brand of the same thing (rubber based) can be applied to wet surfaces very clear if you tool it right away and can be painted.
 

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water re-locater
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How do you service them, disassemble coat & reconnect or scrape them in place and top it off?
don't really do too much repair work but we just try to get all the old tar or whatever crap they used while corner still attached and replace with the geo. Usually keep in cab of truck to keep it nice and warm so comes out real soft. Im sure im not telling you anything you didn't already know. The sealer is the most important part so worth the $
 

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water re-locater
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Just got a can of clear flexal and tried some on half of some card board and threw it out in the yard for a week of rainstorms. Only to find that one side of the cardboard had some protectant on it anyway. Shesh. ...next I will coat the inside of a small cardboard box and see if it can become a bucket of water (but the box has to WANT to change)

Side note though. Just started using lexel and the Dap brand of the same thing (rubber based) can be applied to wet surfaces very clear if you tool it right away and can be painted.
I think a lot of the co. are going the tripolymer route...geo can be put on in sitting water but still not comfortable with that idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just got a can of clear flexal and tried some on half of some card board and threw it out in the yard for a week of rainstorms. Only to find that one side of the cardboard had some protectant on it anyway. Shesh. ...next I will coat the inside of a small cardboard box and see if it can become a bucket of water (but the box has to WANT to change)

Side note though. Just started using lexel and the Dap brand of the same thing (rubber based) can be applied to wet surfaces very clear if you tool it right away and can be painted.
Thanks for the feedback. I will stick to tried & true methods. That won'tinclude the wife Roofcheck.... Lol.

Was thinking it might be like undercoating & be good but I didn't read into it prior to asking.
 

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The Dude
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E.R. Systems, H.E.R. if you can get it in your area. RSG carries it here. Comes in caulk tubes, sausage packs, and gallons. It's an aluminized 1 part urethane. Not quite as thick as Vulkem, extremely sticky.

They don't stock caulk tubes here, and I don't have a sausage gun. I'll buy a sausage pack and poke a hole in the end. Use like toothpaste tube, then squeeze the end shut so it makes a plug. Once you open a gallon, it's tough to use it again. You'll destroy the lid getting it back off the second time. Spread it with a chip brush, or piece of roofing sponge about 1" wide.

Or Vulkem works too
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Good ideas pierre. Too late though its done.


Could not have been more of a hassle. There is a front porch with a hip roof attached at the house. The porch clearly has bad footings since there are humps in the roof. Of course there was 8ft gutter screens and a 3" roof overhang to battle but even after moving the gutter as much as 2"up I still had standing water in the joint.

I opened up and scraped all the silicone off I could, dried it the put it back together with some OSI gutter seal I had in the truck. The tube must have been partially cured because it took alot of strength to squeeze it out. All said and done, where ever there was a trace of old silicone the new OSI didnt stick and still got a drip out of the corner.

We got rid of the standing water with a new leader pipe and top coated the miter again.
Small job turned into 3/4 of a day. :( Hate crap like that
 

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The Dude
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Good ideas pierre. Too late though its done.


Could not have been more of a hassle. There is a front porch with a hip roof attached at the house. The porch clearly has bad footings since there are humps in the roof. Of course there was 8ft gutter screens and a 3" roof overhang to battle but even after moving the gutter as much as 2"up I still had standing water in the joint.

I opened up and scraped all the silicone off I could, dried it the put it back together with some OSI gutter seal I had in the truck. The tube must have been partially cured because it took alot of strength to squeeze it out. All said and done, where ever there was a trace of old silicone the new OSI didnt stick and still got a drip out of the corner.

We got rid of the standing water with a new leader pipe and top coated the miter again.
Small job turned into 3/4 of a day. :( Hate crap like that
Nothing sticks to silicone, not even more silicone. Geocel is a polymer, not a true silicone. 2300 is the regular stuff, the 2320 is for thin seams like gutters. More made to be put in between than on top. Its much stickier, and cleans with laquer thinner instead of mineral spirits like 2300.

As long as it isn't gobbed up, you can use a urethane on the inside, kind of thick, and about 1" wide to encapsulate. Has to be bone dry for that - and not just wiped dry - BONE dry - like heat gun or some sun soaking.

I don't open them up if I don't have to, just scrape what I can and encapsulate from the inside. Fast and no risk of bending gutter parts.
 

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Gutter Hanger
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Geocel also makes a product that comes in cans. Make sure your area is clean and dry and lay some in there with a cheap paint brush or sponge brush. Toss the brush when finished.
I forget the exact name, as I don't feel like going outside to the gutter trailer at this moment.
Not a fan of strip miters. We use box miters but also make a miter cut on the gutter, so it slides in and makes a nice tight seam. Geocel 2320 used above & below the seam and on all fasteners.
 

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Gutter Hanger
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Actually, I need to correct my last statement. I was at the supply house today to pick up gutter coil. The product I meant to mention was Through The Roof. Not a Geocel product, but works just fine at any rate.
 
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