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Repair & Renovation
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So how do you guys like to lay treads and in what?

Ive got a job coming up with a decent amount of limestone treads to lay.. and i just want to know the easiest and best method.. Ive done it just about every method out there and they all worked fine.. No problems so far.. Just want to know how u guys do it..

So far ive layed treads

in just mortar (while working for a mason)

Layed in mortar with acrylic bonding agent mixed in (carefull not to get it on finished surfaces since its not fun to get the stains off)

Painted weld-crete to the underside of tread and layed in mortar bed

Slurry of portland to underside of tread and layed in mortar

And also ive tried a slurry of mortar and acrylic bonding agent mixed in and applied to underside of tread..

These methods all worked for me, im just wondering what u guys lke to do..
 

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Have Trowel, Do travel
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I've been gone for a while, so, explain "treads" Pictures help me a lot too.
Googled it, Stairs.
I fill the riser with mortar that has very little water(hard) and spread thin-set on the underside of the stone
 
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Repair & Renovation
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
brunothedog said:
I've been gone for a while, so, explain "treads" Pictures help me a lot too
What u step on when u walk on stairs :blink: and since this is in the masonry section were not talking wood.. There usually 2"x12 deep x width of steps.. You know... Treads...
 
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Usually have the tender pre paint bonding agent on the backs of a few and just lay them in mud.

Ive worked with some guys who like to make squares, or rows, if you know what I mean, with the mortar leaving air pockets. I think a full bed of mortar helps keep water from being trapped under them. Generally if the stones dont sit 1/2 inch up from the "line" then they should be relayed as the stone wont press the mud out evenly filling the voids.

The first mason I worked for as a kid used portland on the backs.

Generally If I have a day of laying treads I will bring in saw horses to set up paint stations.
 

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Have Trowel, Do travel
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What u step on when u walk on stairs :blink: and since this is in the masonry section were not talking wood.. There usually 2"x12 deep x width of steps.. You know... Treads...

i think i can handle a little masonry, how hard can it be?

like i said, no matter if its brick, stone, marble, etc.. I build up to the "tread" with really stiff mortar, even it out with no air pockets, voids, etc… then i apply thin set tile mortar on the underside of what i am putting down, and set it.
I've laid so far at least 700 marble, granite, and brick "TREADS", and "risers"
 

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Repair & Renovation
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i think i can handle a little masonry, how hard can it be?

like i said, no matter if its brick, stone, marble, etc.. I build up to the "tread" with really stiff mortar, even it out with no air pockets, voids, etc… then i apply thin set tile mortar on the underside of what i am putting down, and set it.
I've laid so far at least 700 marble, granite, and brick "TREADS", and "risers"
Never tried thinset. Sounds like it would hold nice.. i wonder how the venner stone mix would do..
 

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Repair & Renovation
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Usually have the tender pre paint bonding agent on the backs of a few and just lay them in mud.

Ive worked with some guys who like to make squares, or rows, if you know what I mean, with the mortar leaving air pockets. I think a full bed of mortar helps keep water from being trapped under them. Generally if the stones dont sit 1/2 inch up from the "line" then they should be relayed as the stone wont press the mud out evenly filling the voids.

The first mason I worked for as a kid used portland on the backs.

Generally If I have a day of laying treads I will bring in saw horses to set up paint stations.
I may go this route.. i have plenty of weldcrete kicking around.. adding admix to the mix is a waste of product and messy if it gets on the face of the stone..
 

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If I add the milk to the mortar I dont joint them the same day or with it. I joint with just mortar none of that fancy stuff in it.
 

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I really like to use modified thinset. Mix it just a tinge on the wet side, that way the ridges smash down nicely when you set the stone. I use a 3/8 notch. really gives it a superior bond.
 

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Usually have the tender pre paint bonding agent on the backs of a few and just lay them in mud.

I think a full bed of mortar helps keep water from being trapped under them.


I agree with you 100%. A full mortar bed is the way to go on all masonry units in my book. Also,cannot go wrong with a bonding agent !
 

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Usually have the tender pre paint bonding agent on the backs of a few and just lay them in mud.

Ive worked with some guys who like to make squares, or rows, if you know what I mean, with the mortar leaving air pockets. I think a full bed of mortar helps keep water from being trapped under them. Generally if the stones dont sit 1/2 inch up from the "line" then they should be relayed as the stone wont press the mud out evenly filling the voids.

The first mason I worked for as a kid used portland on the backs.

Generally If I have a day of laying treads I will bring in saw horses to set up paint stations.
This was my method until I had a few fire pit caps pop on me a couple years back. I've been mixing umaco with a shovel of portland as my paint ever since and have been really happy with the result. pointing the following day. Onlytime I've ever had an issue has been with bluestone for whatever reason...
 

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Whether it's caps or treads or flags in general, I've always use portland slurry with a bit of milk and paint it on. Timing is everything - don't let it flash and it'll stick like sap.
 

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95% Of the treads I do are Bluestone. I used to do a Portland/sand mortar then butter the back with Portland paste. I have switched to quickly cutting a few kerfs in the back with a 4" grinder and using premix thinstone veneer mortar.
 

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95% Of the treads I do are Bluestone. I used to do a Portland/sand mortar then butter the back with Portland paste. I have switched to quickly cutting a few kerfs in the back with a 4" grinder and using premix thinstone veneer mortar.




Good idea,I think the bond for any smooth stone is enhanced by either "ruffing up" the bed surface or a few kerfs.
 
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