[javatom]

OK, here's the problem. I have a recessed light in a shower. It has the proper trim ring and the install seemed to be done right. The light will only stay on for about 5 min. and stops working. After it cools down, it can be turned back on. It is between level 1 & 2 (no insulation). I'm the gc and my question is; do I call my electrician back to replace a faulty can or could something else be causing this?

 

[Bubbles]

light

I'd go buy a socket extender ($4) and replace bulb with a flouescent. That usually solves the thermal problem

 

[javatom]

I tried suggesting that but my client is unhappy with the time it takes for a flouescent to come to full brightness.

 

[macmikeman]

If the fixture was installed improperly, or lamped improperly, and the thing turns off and on, then by all means you get sparky to fix it. If none of the above, and if the heat sensor cutout is faulty then the question is: Who provided the fixture in the first place? Was it the electrician or you or the homeowner? If sparky provided the cans, then get sparky back to furnish another one. His bid should have had that contingency covered. If you provided the can or the homeowner did, be prepared to hire sparky to come back and replace the can with a new one.

 

[javatom]

The electrician provided everything. My concern is having to redo the ceiling of the shower in order to install a new fixture. Does anyone know if there is a non invasive way to remove a new construction fixture and replace it with a remodel fixture. Maybe the parts can just be replaced without removing the housing.

 

[Zinsco]

The lamp is too large and the thermal switch is opening.

 

[javatom]

60 watt bulb. Doesn't seem like that should be the problem.

 

[Bubbles]

Insert

Slide the insert out and go in there with sheet metal cutters. Then put remodel in. It ain't fun. Expect alot of cursing

 

[javatom]

This is the fixture in question.

 

[wireless]

The thermal switch is replaceable, you can also buy the same can and remove the can from the frame and install it in the existing frame.

 

[wireless]

I should add, it doesn't sound like a problem with the can it is probably the lamp wattage is too high or wrong type.

 

[ChrWright]

The fixture should have a chart, listing maximum wattages for the specific model of trim.

(wow, that plumbing is a mess. What's with all the aluminum tape?)

 

[javatom]

The plumbing was my dumb azz idea. 3/4" supply lines to each location and home run to the basement. Insulate all the hot pipes so you dont wait too long for hot water. The aluminum tape is holding insulation on at the places it attaches to the framing. It all looks nasty because most of these home run pipes are going through this part of the ceiling. It only works within a normal day of activity. A few hours of non use and you have to wait 28 sec. for hot water. Awesome water pressure though. The tub can be filled in a matter of a few minutes. Next time I will make the tub the only one with this set up. I could always go back to installing a loop. This job did not have the budget for that.

I will see if the light fixture has any special requirements for the lamp before I call sparky.

 

[Tiger]

60 watt bulb. Doesn't seem like that should be the problem.

The typical recessed light with a shower trim is A19 40W max. Over-lamping is overheating the fixture.

 

[macmikeman]

The typical recessed light with a shower trim is A19 40W max. Over-lamping is overheating the fixture.

Right you are Tiger, that is typical when you are using IC rated cans. Non IC cans usually can have a 60w a19 lamp in them. Many municipalities do not allow non ic cans any longer so that also plays a big factor here.

 

[ChrWright]

The plumbing was my dumb azz idea. 3/4" supply lines to each location and home run to the basement. Insulate all the hot pipes so you dont wait too long for hot water. The aluminum tape is holding insulation on at the places it attaches to the framing. It all looks nasty because most of these home run pipes are going through this part of the ceiling. It only works within a normal day of activity. A few hours of non use and you have to wait 28 sec. for hot water. Awesome water pressure though. The tub can be filled in a matter of a few minutes. Next time I will make the tub the only one with this set up. I could always go back to installing a loop. This job did not have the budget for that.

I will see if the light fixture has any special requirements for the lamp before I call sparky.

By the way, if the can light is faulty (unlikely), you can easily replace the whole sleeve which includes the heat cutoff. All new construction can lights are designed to be removable from below to access the j-box. There are usually two screws just inside the rim.

 

[macmikeman]

By the way, if the can light is faulty (unlikely), you can easily replace the whole sleeve which includes the heat cutoff. All new construction can lights are designed to be removable from below to access the j-box. There are usually two screws just inside the rim.

Three Chris, but hey whose counting.......

 

[ampman]

this may be crazy but is that a dryer vent running on top

 

[Noodle]

this may be crazy but is that a dryer vent running on top

I think thats a heating and ac duct

 

[ChrWright]

Three Chris, but hey whose counting.......

Indeed, for the 6".

I use mostly 4", which usually have 2, or sometimes none (just a friction fit).