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Perhaps kohler's standard is now 12" from framing... with allowance for sheetrock, backer, tile, etc...

If your having an 'issue' with Kohler, why don't you contact the company and clarify their standards?
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
TimelessQuality said:
Perhaps kohler's standard is now 12" from framing... with allowance for sheetrock, backer, tile, etc...

If your having an 'issue' with Kohler, why don't you contact the company and clarify their standards?
I doubt it. RO sizes have always been to finished wall thickness no matter if its a toilet, shower valve, wall faucet, electrical box, lights etc etc they wouldn't ever say from framing as they have no idea what's going on the wall. It could be 2" wedi board and 1" thick tile for all they know or 3/8 drywall.

Kohler don't really supply instructions anymore. They have a few small diagrams on the box which your meant to cut out and use but no detail in them at all.

Here's another one I have to put in today or tomorrow. Back is flush on this one and it has the same spacing issue. I may have to let the customers know they won't be getting a clean custom look if they want to use these toilets in old work.



Light Lighting Screen Technology Automotive exterior
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Well I got an answer from them. It seems that the lower end of their range are design this way to take into account different possible scenarios like RO being out, thicker wall coverings being in place etc etc but the higher end kit they can be attached to the wall but you have to make sure you have the exact RO distance the toilet requires. its seems they make them idiot proof in the Lower ranges but they said there's zero issue moving the RO to mount the cheaper ones on the wall. Not that $320 was a cheap toilet but at least there's the option through them to get the better looking wall hugging designs for a little more money if the flange is dead on a true 12" to final wall depth.
 

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Sometimes, if you can't push the tank lid all the back (because the tank is too close to the wall) the bowl lid and seat won't stay up reliably.

- Rich
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
That's more the case of cistern not level than lid too far forward. If I wanted to move the lid back on the one in front of me as an example the lid moves less than 1/4" forwards to backwards. But the cistern can tilt forded red about 2-3" if I don't crank the rear bolts down on the cistern. Sometimes there's not a rear bolt so you hope the cistern lid can move back enough to let you use that type of lid. I have always put mine in in walls and never had a situation where the lid would stay up but I have seen this happen on some other people's toilets that were not mounted to the wall. Normally its just a badly designed seat.
 

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Well apparently yes because I couldn't get it to work must mean I'm not an idiot lol
When you move the flange to 10 1/2" make sure to leave your name and address printed on it so the next plumber can find you and beat you over the head with a pipe.

Leave the pluming work to the plumbers, they know what they are doing
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
rrk said:
When you move the flange to 10 1/2" make sure to leave your name and address printed on it so the next plumber can find you and beat you over the head with a pipe.

Leave the pluming work to the plumbers, they know what they are doing
I am a plumber. Have been for 15 years. It was my main trade just so your aware. plus if you would have read the other posts you would have seen that almost any 12" rough in toilet will fit a 10-12" rough in. Perhaps once you know as much about plumbing as I do come back and flex your pecks some more lol


Also just to educate you some more they do make 10" rough in toilets just in case they can't use one of the 12" Rough opening 20+ available of the shelf units that fit a 10" RO.
 

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13 to center on rough.

3" left of center-3.5 off wall for water through floor.

Water through wall I use 2x6 backer.

I
 

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Well I got an answer from them. It seems that the lower end of their range are design this way to take into account different possible scenarios like RO being out, thicker wall coverings being in place etc etc but the higher end kit they can be attached to the wall but you have to make sure you have the exact RO distance the toilet requires. its seems they make them idiot proof in the Lower ranges but they said there's zero issue moving the RO to mount the cheaper ones on the wall. Not that $320 was a cheap toilet but at least there's the option through them to get the better looking wall hugging designs for a little more money if the flange is dead on a true 12" to final wall depth.
For 320 bucks, I can get 3 toilets and a lunch to use them with. My rear ain't that fancy.
 

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Forgot that damn b, oh well.
I guess thats why I'm not a plumBer. I can spell GC though :)

Vinyl- We did a bath for an ex-CEO of a major pharmaceutical co. , used a Toto Neorest. Almost $5k for the toilet, the seat opens automatically. Still did the same thing as a cheap $150 toilet.
 

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I'm really surprised at how many people have thought having the tank away from the wall was normal. Here is one I installed the other day here in Australia where its also normal to have the tank against the wall and to fix it to the wall.



And while Im here, when I was doing this bathroom I went to the plumbers supply house and asked for a toilet flange. Everyone stood around scratching their heads and wondered what the heck I was talking about. Turns out they use a toilet connector that looks like this.
 

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Our toilets generally aren't like yours :no: not wall mounted

Ps that slab vanity is nice.
 

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Our toilets generally aren't like yours :no: not wall mounted

Ps that slab vanity is nice.
well that's a antique look toilet, not the usual which are still wall mounted.

Thanks, I got the slab from a local lumber salvager. He ran it through his surface planner and I finished it. Its called Black Wattle and is actually more of a scrub tree here.
 
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