They still make these low level cisterns and pans. They are expensive though. The last high level one I did cost $3k. If you want that look though your choices are limited.schaefercs said:I just recently installed a toilet that needed the tank to be bolted to the wall. The toilet was 100 years old though.
They make insulated cisterns for this exact situation. I ain't ever put one in but I have seen them. The DIY kits ain't worth crap though.skillman said:I have a house in the country with well water . And if the tank was next to wall it would get water damage . Well water is ice cold and room temp makes It sweat even with a foam kit on walls of tank .
Yep just me being cheap . Lol . . No central a/c in home just window units or fans . So she sweats like a piggy .BCConstruction said:They make insulated cisterns for this exact situation. I ain't ever put one in but I have seen them. The DIY kits ain't worth crap though.
I've been looking at toilets for the last couple of days; most seem to be around 3/4 to 1", and in fact 3/4" or 1" seems to be the standard in the drawings for Kohler, Toto, and A.S. But I'm not sure 2" would bother me.Yep every other country must have it wrong. Better start putting 2" blocking on wall hung concealed cistern toilets as well so we can paint behind them lol
Maybe you missed it, so I'll make it plain. If you install one model of toilet tight to the wall, and try to install a different toilet later, both 12" rough ins, you may have to redo the rough in to make it fit.There's just no logical reason for a cistern not to be on the wall.
I've put them in. The ground temp around here runs maybe 50 degrees F, so on a humid summer day uninsulated tanks sweat like crazy - they'll soak the wall and make a puddle on the floor. It's only about $50 more for the insulated tank, but they can be a special order around here.They make insulated cisterns for this exact situation. I ain't ever put one in but I have seen them. The DIY kits ain't worth crap though.
If you rough in the flange 12" off framing ( actually 11 1/2" off wall ) and use 5 1/4" tall base with shoe there are many toilets that will not fit. The base of the bowl will hit the trim.I laid out hundreds of dwellings. We always centered toilet 12'' off framing.
I was involved in many disputes, I could only tweak wall placement so much.
Most lids won't fit on toilets if touching the wall. BCC'c pic must be some commercial type, or custom.
Most toilets Ive ever seen have been off the wall 1-2 inches on average.
And have been involved in remodels where flange was from 10-14 inches off wall. I really never knew they made toilets to accommodate that.
What was this thread about again ? :001_unsure:
He doesn't care, as usual he is right and everyone else is wrong. His favorite term "hack " comes to mind.Maybe you missed it, so I'll make it plain. If you install one model of toilet tight to the wall, and try to install a different toilet later, both 12" rough ins, you may have to redo the rough in to make it fit.
Quite the opposite infact. I do care and that's why i keep getting return calls from customers who know im gonna spend the time to do the job the correct way. Its got nothing to do about being a hack. Well when people cant RO i toilet correctly then yes its about being a hack but we are not talking about that we are talking about why do kohler toilets now have 12" rough in toilets thats are really 10" and sit so far off the wall. I dont accept the stupid excuse of its to clean behind and paint behind. Thats what a contractor who dont care tells the customer. As i said no other country seems to have a issue with painting behind toilets but its a big deal over here! I want to see how you guys who say this paint behind pedestal basin, wall hung basins and concealed cistern wall hung pans. Do you not use them because you cant clean or paint behind them!He doesn't care, as usual he is right and everyone else is wrong. His favorite term "hack " comes to mind.
In 30 years I have never seen a toilet made from 1960 on where the tank is screwed to the wall. The only ones were the old 5 Gallon hiboys.
http://m.neatorama.com/2011/08/29/the-expression-sweating-like-a-pig-has-nothing-to-do-with-pigs/Yep just me being cheap . Lol . . No central a/c in home just window units or fans . So she sweats like a piggy .
Some lids are designed so if the flange is out by 1/4" or less you can slid the lid back a little to compensate. I'm thinking this is why some people think there cistern lids have a over hang.Brian Peters said:I don't recall ever seeing a lid that is flush with the back..they all have a small overhang. Maybe it's a regional thing. Then again I'm not a plumber, I've set a few toilets but not many. After reading this thread, next time I'm in a plumbing supply store I'm gonna study toilets a bit!
I just got out of bed and went into my bathroom, the toilet in here is a Kohler and has a flush with the back lid.... shows just how observant I am.
The last 2 I installed didnt say they had to be off the wall or on the wall but they both said slide the lid back to close the gap between the wall and lid. That could also mean either depending how you look at it but these 2 above toilets were 12" RO and they were touching the wall so they were def designed to be on the wall but they were of the shelf units from lowes.TNTSERVICES said:Can anyone point me to documentation stating the toilet is supposed to be flush with the wall?