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Discussion Starter #1
I'm installing new kitchen cabinets and everything has gone great ...until now.

I need to install two "tower cabinets" that are 18"w x 18"d x 90"h. They will be placed in corners of the room on either side of a bay window with about a foot a space from the bay to each tower. The problem is that that right wall is way off plumb. When the tower is pushed into the corner the bottom sits against the wall and the top is about 1 1/4" away from the wall!

I know there prob isn't much I can do, but are there any tips on what can be done other then making the cabinet off-plumb as well??
 

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LI Hardwood Guy,

It's late in the game to discover a problem like this.

The best thing to do is to STOP, and MAKE the wall plumb.

I know that this is a bitter pill to swallow, but that's the way it is.

Best wishes,
 

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Mike Finley said:
Molding
Scribe
Plumb wall

1 1/4 inch is huge!

This must be one of those good old houses that they don't make em like they used to anymore.

My money says it was built in the 70's (OVE), - - probably has aluminum slider windows and drywall returns too. :cheesygri Don't ya' hate when that happens? :rolleyes:
 

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If you can't (or aren't getting paid to) straighten out the wall (which is the best/most desired way) as Mike S. stated above, - - you're pretty much left with adding a trim-piece, - - add the same piece to the other tower as well, - - so they match. You've GOT to keep the tower plumb no matter what, - - stay clear of being the 'cause' of any problems. You could use a 1 5/8" colonial stop (or similar), - - it's got a thin profile that wouldn't be too pronounced, - - then you'd just have to paint or stain to match the cabs.

Why or how in the world the wall would 'change plumb' 1 1/4" over a distance of what I'm guessing is about 10', - - is in dire need of an investigation.
 

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In re-reading you're post, - - I'm not sure, but maybe you're talking about the right 'side' wall, - - in that case make custom 'filler' strips for both towers, - - make the left one 3" wide all the way, - - and the right one 3" at the top, - - tapering to 1 3/4" at the bottom. The width will help make it less obvious. Your towers will fall about 9" from the window instead of 12". Again, - - keep the towers perfectly plumb. The 'house' you have an excuse for, - - the 'towers' you don't.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the responses.

The wall has an arched remodel doorway about 8" in front of the cabinet. The doorway size was changed and the return to the bay wall (the off plumb section) was rebuilt. The rest of the wall, on the other side of the doorway, is much better but still a bit off. ...yes it's a 70's home.

Turns out it wasn't ALL the wall. The floor is off level a bit too. I shimed up the cabinet mostly level ..bubble hugging the line - but not over it, I got 'er down to an acceptable 5/8".

There is already a 2" beaded filler going between the cabinets and their side walls.

My solution was to scribe and rip a piece of oak flooring (I got plenty you know) to a taper. Got it pretty good. I stained it to match and looks pretty good dry fit. Havn't put it in yet though.

Well live & learn I guess. Long as everyone is understanding and happy it all turns out ok in the end.

Thanks. .....Floors are alot easier then walls - never have to worry about the word "plumb"


...I like peaches better anyway :D
 

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Turns out it wasn't ALL the wall. The floor is off level a bit too. I shimed up the cabinet mostly level ..bubble hugging the line - but not over it, I got 'er down to an acceptable 5/8".

didn't i hear a electrician say that :cheesygri
 

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Can you put a marble on the shelf/countertop and it won't roll? Old carpenter's trick, back when carpenter's built cabinetry. You can blame my Dad for this one.
 
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