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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all ... quick question about PT.

I haven't found any place in my area that supplies KDAT lumber. There are, however, a number of kilns in the area that I'm planning on asking to dry the PT I get from the yard.

Before asking I thought I'd check on here first to see if this is even possible. Is there a time frame in which PT must be dried or is the lumber I get at the yard still alright to be dried. I'm really hoping I'm not stuck struggling with twisted boards.

Thanks in advance!
 

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John Hyatt
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# 1 pt pine is kiln dried twice, ounce before and another after, and it has a better knot grade.

But it doesn't make any difference exposed flat to the sun. The result is still the same.

J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was under the impression that kiln dried PT would be less prone to warping. I'm assuming that kiln drying would also give me less shrinkage after the build and, thus, produce a nicer looking product.
 

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Less prone to warping before it's used. Once it gets soaked, it'll do what it does. Getting a coating on it quick after the build helps with that.
 

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John Hyatt
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If a person used # 1, Stacked it up with stickers and kept a fan on for ...three months or so , put finish on all four sides, stickered it up again and let the fans run again, Put it down and touched up the finish.

In one year the result would be the same as it would have been put down straight out of the Yard. With one difference. The price of all that would put it up there with Garapa/Massenranduba.

NOTHING can change the nature of pt yellow pine exposed flat to the Sun. Re Read...Again. One more time.

JonMon www.deckmastersllc.com
 

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Box Builder
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Why don't you sticker a bunch inside for a couple months till it reaches satisfactory moisture levels and then try a build with it. See what happens. I only use pt for framing and not finish, so it's usually buried.
Here is a story for you though. My father built a house on the coast of Maine. Stockpiled the deck framing in the cellar for months. Framed the deck and then we came back to install the decking. The deck joists were blocked in the middle of the span. The framing had swelled so much that the end joists were bumped out over an inch each at the blocking. We had to cut out every other piece of blocking to straighten things out.
 

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I don't seem to have as much difficulty working with PT SYP as most. Sun exposure gets painted, so you don't get all the cracks and other problems. The downside is it's painted, and the decking has to be touched up yearly around here.

Regarding twist, warp, bow, cup, and crook on wet from the yard PT SYP, it's possible to select lumber that starts straight and will air dry straight without weighting. I rechecked this after everything around here switched to ACQ, and I can still do that with what's being shipped.

Most of the PT SYP I see from any yard around here is not worth buying - if it isn't an ugly mess at the yard, it'll turn into one at the first opportunity. They're just sawing some crappy logs, IMO, so it isn't worth the effort to pick through a pile to get some good lumber, there's too little of it.

If you just have to use PT for a deck, my advice is use KD so you can paint it right away. The longer it sits wet out there in the sun, the more trouble you're going to have with it.
 
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