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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I doing a room for a client - it use to be a sun room - now it a legit mudroom with porcelain tile. Go figure, but I give the client what they want.
My question is, being that I'm not doing a bath, is it really all that necessary to install a band over my seams. I mean, I only installed the Ditra to protect the tiles from creaking.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
That's what I was thinking. If I'm not waterproofing, what's the point? I first time using the product. Cement board adhered with modified n screws every 6" (4" on edge). Avoided screwing directly to joists. Ditra with Modified as well. Might have made a mistake with that one. Will use non-modified for the porcelain tile.
Thanks for your help. Any suggestions will be welcomed.
 

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That's what I was thinking. If I'm not waterproofing, what's the point? I first time using the product. Cement board adhered with modified n screws every 6" (4" on edge). Avoided screwing directly to joists. Ditra with Modified as well. Might have made a mistake with that one. Will use non-modified for the porcelain tile.
Thanks for your help. Any suggestions will be welcomed.
Why cement board and Ditra?
 

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I always tape the seams. Whether the waterproofing is needed or not, I figure it helps keep it a single membrane rather than leave a potential hinge at the seam.
 

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From the Schulter site:

Today’s construction methods, which include the use of lightweight, moisture-sensitive materials, such as plywood, OSB, and gypsum concrete, have made the installation of hard surface coverings particularly challenging. If wood or gypsum concrete substrates are exposed to moisture, the tile layer above can be damaged as a result. Typical areas that require waterproofing include tub surrounds and showers. However, there are other commonly tiled areas that may, through unexpected circumstances, become exposed to significant amounts of water; for example, an overflowed toilet, or ruptured dishwasher, icemaker, or washing machine lines, which can result in flooding. Waterproofing these floors can save an owner from replacing the tile assembly and substructure in the event of a leak. Schluter-DITRA installations can be made waterproof with minimal effort. Since the matting is made of waterproof polyethylene, the only extra step necessary is to seal the DITRA seams and floor/wall connections. This is easily accomplished by applying Schluter-KERDI-BAND to these areas using an unmodified thin-set mortar. The result is a waterproof installation that will not suffer damage in the event of an unexpected water leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I always tape the seams. Whether the waterproofing is needed or not, I figure it helps keep it a single membrane rather than leave a potential hinge at the seam.
To answer the question "why both": I have about 1 1/4" from main floor to door sill. Adding a sub-floor helps to increase the height. Also, IMHO, it reduces the activity between the seams as you lay down the sheets of Ditra. This is why I don't think it's necessary to apply the "Band". If the seams are perpendicular to the direction I am running the Ditra, there is only the intersecting point where there might be shifting. If I'm running parallel, then I will lay in a way that the seams are away from the seams of the underlayment (sub-flooring in my case).
 

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No. Usually you just butt the Ditra joints. But if you want to waterproof (per Schluter), here's what you do:

Ditra, (For waterproofing only):
"At the joints, fill the cut-back cavities with unmodified thin-set mortar, approximately 8" (203 mm) wide, centered over the joint."
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Your gonna have to explain because they mention nothing about stopping tiles from creaking!
Disclaimer: I AM NOT AN EXPERT TILE INSTALLER...
All materials expand and contract. In the contracting business we're concerned with everything from compound shrinkage to working with concrete in the winter. When it come to tiling, we are concerned with the movement that happens when wood expands and contracts with change in temperature; moreover, the movement that happens when someone walks on a weak floor. And let me be clear, all floor have movement. Being someone that works on old homes, I try my best to stabilize the floor before I put down any tiling material down. This video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6FyWs2WZ1kwill show how the underlayment helps prevent the tile from creaking when there is movement.
But the better your preparation prior to setting your tile, the better off you'll be.
But I've been remodeling for some years now. I've learn that a little extra time and care can go a long way.
 

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jzeig1 said:
Disclaimer: I AM NOT AN EXPERT TILE INSTALLER... All materials expand and contract. In the contracting business we're concerned with everything from compound shrinkage to working with concrete in the winter. When it come to tiling, we are concerned with the movement that happens when wood expands and contracts with change in temperature; moreover, the movement that happens when someone walks on a weak floor. And let me be clear, all floor have movement. Being someone that works on old homes, I try my best to stabilize the floor before I put down any tiling material down. This video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6FyWs2WZ1kwill show how the underlayment helps prevent the tile from creaking when there is movement. But the better your preparation prior to setting your tile, the better off you'll be. But I've been remodeling for some years now. I've learn that a little extra time and care can go a long way.
I know how ditra works I been using it for years even before they released it in the UK a long time ago. I'm curious to know how tiles creak. I don't think one contractor on this forum knows what a creaking tile sounds like.
 
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