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Just bought a (new 2 me) 2000 Ford Ranger XL, What to do next?

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Just bought a (new to me) 2000 Ford Ranger. V6 3.0lt XL w 175k miles.
As soon as i got the truck home yesterday the damn serpentine belt cracked and broke off as soon as i pulled in my drive way. lol
I picked up a new one this morning ($20) , and installed it today, and its running fine again.. (thank god autozone dont close until 12am here).

this is not my primary truck, its just a cheap run around the city (estimating jobs, etc) truck.
This is my first ever FORD, as i drive a 2007 Silverado for the heavy stuff, So i got this at a good price, and just incase gas hits $4 a gallon again..

Just wanted to ask you guys what else should i take a look at or get done?

1. Oil (duh, thats tommrow)
2. Should i change the tranny fluid? (with this many miles, or just leave it alone?, i dont know the history)
3. Rear differential Fluid? (same question, dont know history)
4. Spark plugs? (Regular copper? Platinum? 2xPlat?)
5. PVC valve?
6. Coolant flush?

Anything else im missing?
 

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Rebuilt engine. :w00t:
 

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Just bought a (new 2 me) 2000 Ford Ranger XL, What to do next?

Similar to this one..

Just bought a (new to me) 2000 Ford Ranger. V6 3.0lt XL w 175k miles.
As soon as i got the truck home yesterday the damn serpentine belt cracked and broke off as soon as i pulled in my drive way. lol
I picked up a new one this morning ($20) , and installed it today, and its running fine again.. (thank god autozone dont close until 12am here).

this is not my primary truck, its just a cheap run around the city (estimating jobs, etc) truck.
This is my first ever FORD, as i drive a 2007 Silverado for the heavy stuff, So i got this at a good price, and just incase gas hits $4 a gallon again..

Just wanted to ask you guys what else should i take a look at or get done?

1. Oil (duh, thats tommrow)
2. Should i change the tranny fluid? (with this many miles, or just leave it alone?, i dont know the history)
3. Rear differential Fluid? (same question, dont know history)
4. Spark plugs? (Regular copper? Platinum? 2xPlat?)
5. PVC valve? Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

6. Coolant flush?

Anything else im missing?


Check ALL four Brake Linings.

Check Condition of Tires.

Check for Spare and Jack and Handle. (Behind Seat).

Grease all Ball Joints.

Check Universals on the Drive Shaft. (I would Replace)

Clean with Carburetor Cleaner, The Mass Airflow Sensor. It is the metal insert that is in between the Air Filter Box and The Throttle Body (Carburetor).

Check ALL vacuum lines and replace any worn or cracked ones. Available at ANY Auto Parts store by the foot.

What Color is the TX Fluid. Bright Red means that It was just done.

If you have Brown TX Fluid, I would Suggest Professional Filtering versus "Changing Fluid and Filter". A TX that old may REALLY like the Fluid that it has and changing it can OFTEN cause it to react poorly to the change.

ADD, and I can NOT EMPHASIZE ENOUGH, Lucas Oil Stabilizer! When you change the oil.



http://razgtech.com/RazgTech/images/lucasOilStabilizer.jpg
 

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Nice looking used truck! Hope you have good luck with it. I have owned 4 rangers in the past & had hardly any problems with them- of course the most mileage was around 150k. Anyhow Malco covered most things well. I have changed to Synthetic oil in some of the high mileage vehicles that I have had with no problems of the change. I would also take a visual of your transmission lines if it is an auto.............Mike
 

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175k, what the hell where you thinking. Just got rid of two Fords with 3.0 engines, one a 12 valve the other a 24 valve, both had about 110k when we got rid of them, 12 valve has timing chain, 24 has a belt that will probably need to be changed soon, cam position sensors and crank position sensors on Fords always seem to be a problem (something to watch for, long cranking to start or intermittent starting or dying out problems is a clue) , had a couple of coil packs go out on the 24 valve, pain in the bass to get to them (picked up spares at the junkyard), had to replace the trans on the 24 valve at 80k and the suspension bushings on both were shot. It's probably fuel injected so if the injectors haven't been replaced those will be due soon enough. I've got to think a lot of the work must have already been done or someone has been real lucky. I don't think I'd change the tranny fluid unless you have records from the previous owner showing it was changed regularly, that's when the problems start, all the "crud" keeps them going, some new vehicles have the transmissions completely sealed for that very reason. Same thing with the coolant flush, you find the leaks afterwords unless it was done regularly (maybe do it and replace the hoses (radiator/heater) if they're old). On the spark plugs, if it has aluminum heads make sure the engine has cooled off and use anti-seize on the threads.



.
 

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Finish Carpenter
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ADD, and I can NOT EMPHASIZE ENOUGH, Lucas Oil Stabilizer! When you change the oil.



http://razgtech.com/RazgTech/images/lucasOilStabilizer.jpg

:eek::no: JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK....Lucas is a joke, if it was that great it would come in the oil from the manufacture. Just use sythentic oil and be done with it. In my 96 ranger with 178k on the 3.0, I used Mobil 1 5w30, and change it every 10,000 miles with the filter being changed at 5,000 miles....forget Lucas...it is a red neck gimick.:clap:
 

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I would have the cooling system flushed out. No telling when the previous owner did it last. BTW I have a "93" ranger and expect to turn 200k this week. I have had minor problems but nothing major so far, and I love the mpg especially when gas was over 4$.
 

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:eek::no: JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK....Lucas is a joke, if it was that great it would come in the oil from the manufacture. Just use sythentic oil and be done with it. In my 96 ranger with 178k on the 3.0, I used Mobil 1 5w30, and change it every 10,000 miles with the filter being changed at 5,000 miles....forget Lucas...it is a red neck gimick.:clap:
You are so Mistaken!!!!

I have used it for years.

Had a Jeep Straight 6. Blew the Water Pump. Drove it for 50 miles or so WITHOUT H2O, melted a wire loom that crossed the block, ultimately destroyed the Transmission, but STILL drove it After replacing the Water Pump!

Were it NOT for the Lucas, I would have TOTALLY screwed the Motor.

Not saying that I did not damage it............But I would have destroyed it totally!
 

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:eek::no: JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK....Lucas is a joke, if it was that great it would come in the oil from the manufacture. Just use sythentic oil and be done with it. In my 96 ranger with 178k on the 3.0, I used Mobil 1 5w30, and change it every 10,000 miles with the filter being changed at 5,000 miles....forget Lucas...it is a red neck gimick.:clap:
Yup!!! That is what you want to do........Put Synthetic into an Engine that has Gaskets SATURATED with a Petroleum Distillate.

Synthetic Oil WILL remove this Saturation and cause the Gaskets to shrink, crack and leak over time.

Use a Synthetic Blend. IF AT ALL.
 

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I will have to add another vote for the Lucas. I have used that stuff in some old motors with great success:thumbup:

I would not recomend synthetic oil. Not in an engine with that many miles that has always run regular oil. I've tried it a couple times and I have had nothing but leaks.




Dave
 

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Finish Carpenter
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Finish Carpenter
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How is that data skewed? The fact of the matter remains Lucas increases the foaming rate quite alot...I am not sure what your point of the links where you posted. Not only did the foaming go up in the motor, but also the diff oil.

...I fully understand the whole synth vs dino oil debate and I don't agree with the dino lover argument. The whole synth oil is thinner debate is an un-informed guess fueled by the same people who promote Lucas. As stated in your own link, the guy changed from synth to a "fuller bodied" semi synth, so he upped the viscosity of the oil...that skews his data...that changes it all together making his point mean nothing...he could have just upped the viscosity on his synth oil and had the same effect.

Also it is far synth oil is far cheaper in the long run. at 175k miles, my motor is strong, with 10,000 mile oil changes, i use less oil (by changing it less), I pollute the enviorment less (altho I recycle it anyway...but some people still don't, and most just throw the filters away), and M1 is about twice the cost...I would have gone through 3 and 1/3 oil changes if I did dino oil at 3K miles...as weill as 3 1/3 filters.

Now this one is a long shot, but all the oil comes from the same basic place right?? If everyone ran extended drain intervals, and my 10,000 mile change interval is modest, we would consume less oil as a nation...no? Think about it on a nation level.

I only go through 2 filters and 6 quarts in 10,000 miles, not 20 quarts and four filters...yes, it burns a a quart in 10,000 miles. That is also less downtime on the truck. :thumbsup:


And as far as lucas....
"if it was that great it would come in the oil from the manufacture"
Nuff Said....
 

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My Final reply.....

Have you ever used Lucas? If so, how long?

My point is, do you have ANY Empirical Data?

I do! And this Data has now become an opinion based upon Clinical Trial.

To each their own.....As the saying goes!

Tomato, Tomahto. Potato, Potahto.

:thumbsup:We CAN still be Forum Friends!:thumbsup:
 

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Finish Carpenter
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No, I personally have never used it b/c my personal thought on all additives are if they were that great it would come in the oil. And if you need that additive, you are just trying to cover up some other problem. I look at additives in the same manner I look at work done by hacks, there is a right way and wrong way. And once I saw the test by "bob", and reviewed all the other information I have gotten from him and the forums I am very very inclinded to trust him. Your are correct sir, it is my opinion that lucas is junk...b/c i personally have not done tests. And of course we can be still be forum friends...we are even from the same area. :) But the next time you go to used it...ask yourself...why do I have to add this stuff? Why doesn't some major company have it in their oil already?
 

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Change all the fluids, try synthetics in engine, trans, diffs. replace radiator hoses, heater hoses, run it, don't rebuild it till it blows, should be good for at least 300K.
 
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