Fein MultiMaster

 

x2

plus

www.multiblades.com

 

Got the Bosch 12v cordless Oscillating tool last fall.

One word - awesome!

 

Crain 820.

 

roto zip with the wood blade attachement.. but watch out for smoke detectors

 

:thumbdown:thumbdown

 

Crain 820

 

I really want to try one of these. Anyone have any experience with one?

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1640VS-Finecut-Power-Handsaw/dp/B00004SUP4

 

I have one of these--Good tool for undercutting,Glad I own one.

Some of the more aggressive accessory blades are handy for delicate trim work. (don't bother with the optional miter thingy -bad)

---Mike--

 

They make a decent tool. I would check on the price of blades first KemoSabe.

 

I'm curious as to whether the blade can be reversed for left or right cutting. I can see issues with undercutting casings in a corner.

 

The festool is great for that . But the blades are around $50.00 ea.
I have the $100.00 one you can but at lowes . does the same job.

 

What Festool are you referring to?

 

The Fein will be much more versitile. I had to cut 76 cassings in a house. I just set a piece of 5/8 on the floor and ran my Fein Supercut in and done.

Love that tool.

 

I been using crain, much faster and smoother cuts :thumbsup:

 

The Bosch 1640VSK fine cut saw that I have works great for undercutting wood door frames. With the flush cut blade, it’s faster and makes much cleaner, straighter cuts than my Rockwell Sonicrafter does for this type of work. I have even used the Bosch to flush cut underlayment to cabinet toe kicks on occasion.
If you buy the miter base for it, you can also use it as a mini miter saw to cut quarter round and baseboard. IMO, the only down side to it is that Bosch doesn’t have a metal cutting blade available for it.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1640VS-...wer-Handsaw/dp/B00004SUP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1295789293&sr=8-1-catcorr

 

I'm curious as to whether the blade can be reversed for left or right cutting. I can see issues with undercutting casings in a corner.

The blade flips over for left and right cutting. Great saw, but blades aren't cheap.

 

I really want to try one of these. Anyone have any experience with one?

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1640VS-Finecut-Power-Handsaw/dp/B00004SUP4

Yes-- I've had that saw for a number of years and love it as a jamb saw-- much faster & easier than the multimaster. Now with that said, if you had to choose between the two, go for the M.M. It's way more versatile--I don't know what I did before the multimaster I use it ALL the time now. If you've got the cash- buy both-- the blades for the Bosch jamb saw are way cheaper, last longer, and aren't as flimsy as the MM.

 

I have both, a Crain SuperSaw and a Fein Multimaster. The Multimaster stays in the truck. The Crain is in the shop...somewhere. Would I sell it? Nah, you never know...

 

I have the Bosch Finecut and have used it a lot over the past 4 years. It works very well. The blades are not that expensive, ($15-ish). I usually add that cost to a few jobs so I can keep the blades sharp. Once they dull, they are worthless.

However, on a whim I bought one of the Dremel oscillating tools. It has been used on almost every job. I'm saving for a SuperCut!

The cost of the Craig is too high considering it only does one thing. Well, if you have the balls to cut the bottom of a door with it too, then it does 2 things.

 

...
The cost of the Craig is too high considering it only does one thing. Well, if you have the balls to cut the bottom of a door with it too, then it does 2 things.

I guess I don't...or certainly wouldn't. Sadly, the Crain won't even reach into an inside corner to cut base. An oscillating saw will.

 

Crain
No.555 Multi-Undercut Saw
•Undercuts walls, door jambs, under toe-spaces and inside corners.

I use the Crain 820 but for very uneven floors the 555 ( smaller base/blade ) will work better.

 

crain 812 is what I use when I've got a lot of cuts to make. A couple cuts, I grab the multi tool.

 

I have used my TS-55 to undercut door jambs.

Worked really well, once I established what my height would be.

 

Thanks for the input on the Bosch tool guys, my thanks button is gone.:thumbsup:

 

I have just noticed the price in Amazon, I got it in Lowe's for $99.!

 

I saw it there for 99 as well, but was leary of pulling the trigger. It's probably back up in price now.:furious:

 

I have the Roberts longneck.....can't complain.....

 

I have the bosh flush cut saw. Great saw and whats great about the saw the blade flips right or left. Also I can cut jambs with doors still hung. Also use it to cut off shims for door installs and window installs.

 

Here's the deal guys - if you do a lot of floors, get a Crain 820 and use it as your main jamb saw. If you have a whole house to do or even more than 2 sets of jambs to undercut, the Crain is a LOT faster than any oscillating tool or the Bosch. I own a Supercut. I also own 3 other Jamb saws. The blades for the Crain, costed out over their lifetime, are a helluva lot cheaper than the others. That coupled with the speed advantage and its a no-brainer...if all you are doing is a doorway or two then the other tools work great, but for 3 or more break out the tool that was made for the job :thumbsup:

I have the best of both worlds. When we start cutting jambs both saws are out. One guy goes through with the Crain and another guy follows with the Supercut cleaning up any inside corners or the small pieces close to an existing floor that cant be reached with the Crain. It is a quick effective method that works. Two guys can undercut a whole house in 10 minutes. The Crain can also undercut stone fireplace hearths with a diamond blade.

 

Could not agree with you more .
I have cut a ton of hearths to slide hardwood under .
Different ways for different days . :thumbsup:

 

Every time I see someone use one of those Crane or Roberts jamb saws, it always looks as though they used a chain saw to make the cut. Not a very clean, professional looking cut, IMO.

 

You have obviously been observing hacks :laughing: Seriously though, that's not an issue unless you are too cheap to buy a new blade every 4 or 5 jobs. I used to work with a guy that wouldn't change them until the saw set off every smoke detector in the neighborhood.

The blades are $22. If you build a consumables charge into every job (which a pro should be doing) there is no excuse.