IMHO it should be alright though the inspector will make the final call.

It seems like a too-expensive modification but that is all I can think of.

Andy.

 

Thanks for the quick response Andy, there were extra posts from the patio that we built, so he thought it would be a good idea to use them here. My main concern is the post twisting over time. The door going in is one of those expensive doors, and I just don’t want a call back

 

What's the connection detail for the 2x's to the beam?

 

Hey Mike,

There are no top plates above the header, the floor joists sit on the Parałam Beam. The Header is connected to the top plates next to it with a Simpson MSTC28 strap. The Header is also connected with A35s to the rim joist, and it is connected to the 4x6 post with a simpson HRS416Z. The 4x6 is connected to the bottom plate and king stud with a LTP4 plates. There are 2 king studs that are both nailed together, as well as screwed with SDWS screws both into the post and into the header.

 

To better help, What is your profession ? Trade?

 

Hey Thom,

I’m a General Contractor, with a decent background in framing, and the structural engineer on the job did say it was fine, but I always thought that 2x4s are built up as trimmers due to them being more stable.

 

I think they are built up typically because 2x’s are what’s on the job. I’ve definitely been on framing projects where 4x4’s and 4x6’s were used with the wall framing. Inspectors in my part of California like to see the Simpson connectors more and more these past years. Being in the wall I wouldn’t fret the twisting as much as if exposed or PT. But I definitely understand your concern and do prefer built up with cross grain strength. I’m sure you know if the grain look is different at one end vs the other, it’s likely to twist up.

 

Hey Wąskin, we definitely went above and beyond on Simpson to please the inspector. The way I was taught when ordering anything 4x or larger, it should always be spec’s at FOHC & quarter sawn, to minimize twisting, & warping. I always recommend to the customer that all 2x used for load bearing walls and floor joists be ordered #1 or better KDHT. Great tip on checking the grain. I’m only concerned on this specific trimmer because it’s a 16k door, otherwise I wouldn’t be worried about it.

 

I've used PSL studs in the past for stability. 4X lumber is of course acceptable as it is often used for columns in basements under girders.

 

I totally get it. I’ve spent hours, so I could sleep better at night. Are ya in the phase of easier to swap now than later? And it’s ticking at the back of your neck on whether or not to take the time. Nevermind the material costs. Paying the cost to be the boss -( good bb king song)

 

That is exactly where I’m at, you hit it on the head. The cost now would be insignificant compared to the cost later, but I also don’t want to waste time and money if it is acceptable and doesn’t pose a risk. Not to mention if I swap it out with 3 2x4s there is now a 1” gap to deal with. I was thinking about using 2 2x4s and 1 3x4 to make up the difference, or just adding a 1” piece of ply to the 3 2x4s, but it would be ideal if I didn’t have to worry about it.

 

The reason I say get framing first is because it will add 1" to your beam span and if the one in a million chance he decides to notice the 1" packout causing span issues it could (and I say that lightly) bite you.

 

2" span increase.

 

Do it on your lunch break lol. I tend to be pretty anal on almost everything I do, so I get it. (Yes, bring on the anal jokes)
OP what is the exterior cladding going to be? Just curious.

 

My pet peeve is the lack of quality in redwood 2x these days. Most all is harvested way to young. I save any old growth of any type I can these days. For personal use mostly.

 

Yes, bring on the anal jokes

I save any old growth of any type I can these days. For personal use mostly.

Into that old wood, huh?

You asked! 😆😆😝

 

Nothing is harder. Nice and tight

 

If you put the 1" filler against the king stud and then the 3 2x4's that would keep the span the same, no?

 

I don't see what is wrong with the 4X6s.

 

OP is concerned of it twisting over time and causing door function issues in the future. I think.
Who knows, could be the start of a butterfly affect if it’s changed out.

 

We only use PT doug fur here and we don't have that issue.

 

It's interior framing, who cares about the marks? Drywall hides all that.

 

Mike is correct that PT Doug fir is is weaker, and is not actually rated as structural, not to mention that the moisture content is much higher in pressure treated lumber than regular framing lumber. I have built Decks before with Appearance grade KDAT DF that did not have perforations, but that was only because the customer requested that, and it was 3 times the price of regular DF. You can also request regular pressure treated DF that is non incised, but the treatment doesn’t get nearly as deep into the wood. I would never use pressure treated wood inside a wall cavity for anything but the mud sill

 

There is a slight caveat.

Incised PT has approximately 10% less strength than typical Doug Fir.

 

Yea that I knew. And yes, who cares when in a wall. That’s not why I was asking. I was just genuinely curious due to the deck framing I see from other states. On screens. I’d say more than 10% with the stuff here.

 

Mainly why I was asking. Not only would Doug PT look better, but I imagine it should be stronger than the pine or red cedar stuff. Never see DF PT around locally. Any treated lumber is likely weakened.

 

Doug fir and SYP have pretty much the same strength.

 

What is sugar pine?

 

Largest of pine species. I can remember my Grandpa ordering Sugar Pine @ the yard when I was a kid. They say the sweet sap protects it from decay. I call bs



Mike

 

Lots of the pre primed trim boards are made of that stuff and the termites like it the most.

 

I know I gotta sweet tooth.🍩

 

I want to thank everybody for all the great advice, I did end up replacing the 4 x 6 trimmers with 3 1/2” x 5 1/4” Parałam PSL columns, and it turned out nice. In most cases, I would have left it and just called it a day but considering the door is about 17 K I didn’t want to be the reason they had issues in the future. They paid for the materials and it didn’t even take an hour to replace, so it worked out in the end.

 

The lumber gets treated right here at a huge plant. How much does a 8' 2X4 cost at home depot there? Here it's over 6 bucks.

 

Varies like gas, usual 3.48 or
$4.00z
Highest is $8 but that’s rare.

Your talking on the islands right?

 

That’s Doug for untreated.

pt would be 6-8$ roughly I think. But its not like what you’ve got.