I've watched your posts and expertise in the trim work. They are always informative. I've done a few jobs but basic compared to your experience. But I'm interested in the jig. Can you by chance take a pic of a piece in the jig? I get what your doing but can't wrap my mind around the actual workings.

 

Here you go... an end view pic of the jig with a piece of casing at the end... just a long slot miter box. Also a pic of the jig in use:

 

Most excellent! Thanks all clear now. Nice work.

Hope I didn't make you cut a piece short on my behalf. :laughing:

I see a small cut on the front board that holds the work vertical, is it hard to no when to stop your cut?

 

Thanks Paulie,

The short piece was already in the waste bin... so no worries. I make the table saw rip cut first... so when the cut is finished the piece just drops out.

 

:thumbsup::thumbup::thumbsup:

Pocket screws in the joint?

 

Ya sure, you betcha!

 

Are we relying on the painter to caulk the little spot where the relief cut runs out the end?
You know how those painters are.:whistling

Looks good Bass:thumbup:

 

Gus, this will be backbanded so the relief cut will be covered.:thumbup:

You didn't think I would expect that much from the painter did you?:whistling

 

What is a jack miter and what is it used for?

 

Its when Jack the carpenter makes a miter cut.
Jack drinks a little, thats why the tilted miter saw.

 

A jack miter is a combination of a butt joint (of the flat portion of a molding) and a miter (of the profiled portion of a molding). It is used to avoid very large miters which tend to open up with seasonal changes. In this day of conditioned spaces it is less important, however it is still a good idea in my area (Minnesota) due to radical differences between summer and winter.

In the age of hand saws jack miters were rather easy to do... with power tools, not so much. Now they are considered difficult to do well, and time consuming. My jig is a way to make them easy to do.

 

Neo,

That is a Jorgensen. The saw is decent, but small. Pretty short stroke... not a real pro miter box. It is good for cutting base shoe though.arty:

The small size makes it good for this jig... small 45* ramp, and attaching it to the big slot miter box jig makes it nice and stable. I like doing hand saw work, makes me feel connected to craftsmen of the past.:biggrin:

 

:thumbsup:
Sometimes it's better.
Sometimes it's faster
to set up.
Sometimes it's just more fun! :laughing:











It's always more quiet.

 

Very nice bit of info :thumbup:

I would have cut the mitre with my chop saw set to a 45 bevel, then the straight cut on the table saw. I wouldn't have even thought to have a jig like this. I'm sure this produces much better results. I may need to talk my boss into letting me put one together at the shop :thumbup:

 

Got rained out last week (jobsite shop in the yard) so I took the measurements to the shop and precut as much as I could. Each doorway has 15 pieces of trim and 24 cuts (compared to 3 pieces of trim and 4 cuts for a basic door casing set):

 

Two of the doorways met at an inside corner and the casings had to be ripped down. One of the doorways was not plumb so the rip was tapered... and the heights were 3/4" different. I cheated the head reveal up on the low door (to the garage) and made up the rest on the flat of the casing.

Even with the trim mostly precut, I only managed to trim 4 doorways in a day.

 

those clamps in that picture. those are the ones i've been looking for, I haven't had lucking finding that exact clamp. maybe they are really old?

 

Nice set up Basswood, thanks. Do you change the jig to accept different moldings or do you just make a different jig?

Bill

 

Bill the slot of the jig could have fillers added for smaller moldings... or the miter box platform could be moved up or down (it is easily attached with pocket hole screws):

 

Beautiful work Bass.

Did you have anything to do with the wall paper too?

 

Thanks Gus,

I last hung wallpaper about 20 years ago... don't miss it much.

 

I'm just glad to hear you didn't pick the pattern. That would worry me.:laughing:

 

nice!!!!:thumbsup:

 

The painters final coated the trim today and I got pics before the paint even dried.

 

You do such great work Brian! I would hang out with you and work for a week just for fun. (If I could afford that!)

I love doing interesting "different" work.

 

Thanks James. Just a few "Cheeseheads between your area and mine... oh and that lake too. Too bad we can't all take a week off whenever we want.

Cheers,

Bass

 

Thanks! I searched on a few woodworking sites over the past few days and couldn't find them. I had a gift card for woodcraft and was placing an order, they don't have them on their site that I can find.

 

very cool, more recently i have started doing jack mitres, not so much for this type of profile but for windows and doors that are side by side where the full width casing wont fit so i have to rip the intermediate piece down to work.

on my next day making jigs i may have to make this guy up

 

I find that jack miters or just plain old butt joints for square or thicker stock is better in the long run. I never like seeing 1x4 type casing mitered, even when glued, they are prone open at some point.

 

Hey Dan,

The larger (wider) casings do tend to open at the inside corners, like you have suggested. Jack miters or butt joints are the best options. If you have to miter large casing the MiterTite system I reviewed is a good way to go (it is from the same company as the Collins Clamps so you may have seen it on their website):

http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/mitertite-casing-assembly-system-review-68476/

Cheers,

Bass

 

you can get the clamps at lee valley, under mitre clamps in the woodworking index

www.leevalley.com

 

it's a better deal at collin's site though. you get a pack of 12 and pliers for under 50 bucks.

 

Yeah, I did see that but I don't run into super wide mitered casings much anymore. Only some customers are actually willing to pay to do all the work requiring the mitertite system. I don't like that you have to plug where the screw goes. I was thinking they should have it so the screw goes at the top of the casing and you might not see it, maybe you can do that but I couldn't tell by the video.
I normally glue up, can clamp on a flat table the two legs and top casing and then tack the corners with 18 ga. 1" nails. problem with that is waiting for the glue to setup.
most of the colonial trims are just nailed up, glued , once piece at a time.