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I've read all previous posts about how to handle bubbles in regular wallpaper...
and I've read the posts about wallpaper murals...

But I'd like to know if anyone has any suggestions on how to handle bubbles in a *thick,* slightly textured vinyl wallpaper mural. I've heard some of you say that the bubbles may go away as the vinyl dries, so that's promising. I'm nervous about going and poking holes in the vinyl--should I do this when the wallpaper paste (I used Roman's 880) is still wet, or all the way dry? I assume this would take a good few days to dry considering the vinyl thickness. I'm just worried that the bubbles will get worse instead of better as it dries :eek:

Thanks in advance for any advice!
PS...I'm also curious about vinyl-to-vinyl adhesives. Any that you would recommend?
 

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880 has more tendencies to bubble than others which is one of the reasons why I don't like using it. In fact, I rarely use it at all. Next time try Dynamite 234 or a clay.

What was the wall primed with? If it was an oil primer, or Gardz or Drawtite, you may have created a vapor barrier which is keeping the residuals of the paste 'gassing off' from being absorbed into the substrate, and also can't get out through the vinyl. You can either prick the bubbles now and roll them down, or hope it all tightens up as it dries. If it doesn't tighten up, and the bubbles dry in it, you're screwed. It will be really tough to bring it back if they dry in it.

How big are the bubbles and how many? If they are the size of a dime or so, and many are spread throughout, they should dry down tight. If there are just a couple random ones that are as big as a half-dollar or larger, get them now.

Vinyl-to-vinyl selection depends on the application. What do you want/need it for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
We used a latex primer, but with the thickness of the vinyl, and the type of paste, I'm sure you're right about the gasses. I'll research the pastes you suggested and try a different one next time.

Thanks for such a quick response...I was wondering if I should take action now, or wait--and on your advice I'll tackle the larger ones now and wait on the smaller ones. This mural is huge, and I know that we laid it down almost perfectly. So I can't afford to spend several more hours trying to poke holes in the thing! We had a spot where the wall may have been irregular...but the rest of them sprang up overnight and look fairly large.

I've heard of a "holenpoker" (sp?) but I think I'll be able to use a small exacto knife with success...as long as I don't have to make big slits in the thing (!) Or I'll could bring some sewing pins, but I'm not sure those are going to be tough enough to perforate it easily.

Well, about the adhesive, that's just me pre-emptively worrying about the edges/seams of this mural coming loose. When I last checked on it, it looked alright, but I'm already nervous about it and would like to be prepared to fix it.
I suppose I'll have short life if I keep this up, eh? :laughing:
 

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I've read all previous posts about how to handle bubbles in regular wallpaper...
and I've read the posts about wallpaper murals...

But I'd like to know if anyone has any suggestions on how to handle bubbles in a *thick,* slightly textured vinyl wallpaper mural. I've heard some of you say that the bubbles may go away as the vinyl dries, so that's promising. I'm nervous about going and poking holes in the vinyl--should I do this when the wallpaper paste (I used Roman's 880) is still wet, or all the way dry? I assume this would take a good few days to dry considering the vinyl thickness. I'm just worried that the bubbles will get worse instead of better as it dries :eek:

Thanks in advance for any advice!
PS...I'm also curious about vinyl-to-vinyl adhesives. Any that you would recommend?
Roman 880 is excellent choice. The bubbles will disappear in one day, as long as they are not air bubbles. The paste will crystalize. If it is a very heavy material depending on the size used it could take up to three days. Just wait. Try to cut your paste for the tack desireable for the wallcovering. Lots of paste bubbles basically means you put too much adhesive on. It will however crystalize. Don't cut. Wait.
 

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guessing by now you have figured it out, but here is my 2 cents, get the big ones asap or use a wallpaper syringe, push glue in and pull it back out then use your roller. the small bubbles usually go away with time, especially if you are smoothing them out and they are returning, as far as paste i have used the Romans 880 and the dynamite 234, and had bubbles with both, or with all i have tried, what i have found is priming the walls with a sizing instead of a primer/sealer has all but stopped the problem for me... R-35 from Sherwin Williams is my choice but there are others
i think the bubble problem lies within what you coat your sub straight with in preparation for wall cover
 

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hanger1966

guessing by now you have figured it out, but here is my 2 cents, get the big ones asap or use a wallpaper syringe, push glue in and pull it back out then use your roller. the small bubbles usually go away with time, especially if you are smoothing them out and they are returning, as far as paste i have used the Romans 880 and the dynamite 234, and had bubbles with both, or with all i have tried, what i have found is priming the walls with a sizing instead of a primer/sealer has all but stopped the problem for me... R-35 from Sherwin Williams is my choice but there are others
i think the bubble problem lies within what you coat your sub straight with in preparation for wall cover
Your correct. Roman pro-999 is what I prefer. I don't get bubble problems wiyh this sizing. Huge bubbles shouldn't happen unless you apply too much paste. Paste needles are not even part of my grip. razor slice is anything. Air bubbles are a different story. use a good brush and smoothie to tuck.
 

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ProWallGuy thanks your info is always helpful! is the primer pro999 tint-able, or white, or clear?
and i just rehung a mural at Med College, a beach scene, first guy hung it scratched it up,..... first piece i freakin scratch, with a wall paper brush, it was the only one, but most sensitive mural i ever hung, what do you use on a surface that scratch's easily?
 

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If its a very delicate surface, my first try is to test it with a soft natural bristle sweep. If that marks it, I move onto a plastic sweep wrapped with a wet microfiber towel. Sometimes I use just a foam roller to smooth it out.
And I don't know about the Pro999, I never use it. I prime 95% of all surfaces I hang on with Zinsser's Gardz now.
 
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