Hope he's a skinny guy with a skinny family :laughing:

 

Tool shed type room, off the garage. Mostly Mexicans,:laughing::laughing::laughing:

But after today ,.....maybe not. They cut his dogwoods down . 3 of them. He said he told them to water the plants in the back yard.
He F'in flipped out on them. I tried not to laugh but,....I couldnt help myself.

I told him yesterday when I went to look at this that they need to be under constant adult supervision..:laughing:

 

I really wanted to make a set of the door bucks/holders you guys have before I did this today. Ill do it later this week ( or week end) for sure.

 

Homeys dogwoods, in the dumpster!:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:
I had to get a pict of that.
I think he learned a hard lesson today.

 

why the hell cant i make paragraphs here?

see new post below

 

I had done many multi family/college rooming house entry door replacements in the eighties. Replacing raised panel 1 3/4 doors with gypsum filled flush birch slabs. Doors were labeled and expensive so could not mess them up. Always marked up the existing doors with notes and carried them down to the bench and transferred the hinge mortise with a try square and a razor knife. Careful to be sure the bevel was toward the stop on the lock set side. I never has a template. always razor knife and sharp chisels.

I used a simple inverted double "T" buck/bracket to hold the door. was made of 5/4 spruce and held the door by spring action when it flexed in the middle due to the weight of the door. I blocked one side up of the bracket to make it flex.I have not needed to hang a slab in a few years. Ill never forget how heavy them doors were and carrying them up three flights of stairs in some cases. You only wanted to make one trip. Used to have to cut both top and bottom of doors if they were more than 3/4 on an inch taller than old opening. Otherwise you were into the gypsum. If I recall you had 1 1/4 rail at the bottom and 1 inch at the top.

Today's codes do not allow you to cut or trim fire rated doors on site to existing openings. And back then the door slabs would exceed the existing frame rating anyhow.

Oh and you had your chain latch, door viewer, closer, deadbolt and lockset. And for the vestibule, a vestibule lockset of course to keep closing and locking on you every time a student would enter or leave. Usually while your carrying a damn door slab.

 

I never has a template. always razor knife and sharp chisels.

I F'ed up my best chisel on this today. Its been 2 years. Damnit!

 

slabs

I agree, it takes skill!
here's what I do. 1st scope out your project 2nd either do on door at a time or remove existing and label # etc. then build you some bucks or find you some crates or whatever works to hold the new door upright horizontally.3rd measure from the top of the old door to the top of the 1st hinge and so on then mark your mortise spots on door. 4th mortise your hinges & install new hinges then hang door. Bamm! your almost there. Once your doors are hung you can go back and plane rip or shave the doors to get a good shut. Last you go back and install locksets. I charge the same for a prehung and explain to customer why. You can get all kinds of slabs and sell your work as custom because you can add extra hardware and kickplates etc. to a slab making it custom. Have no fear!!!

 

I eyeball both stiles to determine what face goes where - convex side is the hinge side. I then write on the face of the hinge side stile "hinge side" with an arrow pointing to the TOP of the door. All work done on the slab while in door bucks has those words staring at me.

I use a soft lead pencil, even if it is to be stained. The lead gets sanded off - no erasers. Eraser marks will not take a stain, and will show even when clear coated.

Cheers,
Jim

 

He can go screw for that price

 

Let them keep thinking its so hard to do. Thats why they pay us the big bucks!:laughing:

 

It is not hard when you know what your doing. The problem is, on the average the recipients of our work don't know what quality is supposed to look like let alone appreciate it.

By the way. Do any of you fine saw dust makers get a funny look when you tell'em you need to bevel the edges?

 

yes

 

Back in 1975 I was working in new tract homes(union carpenter local 1140)My job was to set the newel post for the stair rail guy(It was all piece work,he paid me 10 bucks a post)well I was keeping an eye on this old hippie carpenter and one helper.His job was to install the doulble entry doors(pair of 3-0 6-8)there were 15 homes in this tract and this guy hung out the whole tract in 2 days and was gone!No mistakes.

 

Hey Guys... I install slabs on a regular basis. Most everyone pointed out the ways and methods I use. But to make things easier for me, I use my PC jig as well as a set of templaco Jigs. Boy dose it make everything soo much easier!! I use the PC jig and set it up on the existing door and then transfer it over to the door that is to be milled.
If you ever saw the Templaco setup.. its idiot proof.... to some extent. Oh and also my festool to make my strait and accurate cuts.

 

i love hanging new doors in old frames it only takes about half an hour and its a good test to see the standard of the carpenter