i do a few every now and then ,here are some bucks i built for when i do:thumbsup:

 

Those are some sexy bucks. Oh wait I didnt mean it like that, or did I...

 

Learned this skill from my dad at age 16. Just did an entire condo unit a few months ago:thumbsup:

 

I have the same hinge jig and router as you loneframer, but don't have that nice lockset jig yet, still use a cheapo. I actually love doing slabs, they usually go pretty quick, and it can be good $$$$

 

That is a Kwikset jig that my dad handed down to me recently, for that job actually. I learned how to install locksets with this jig about 28 years ago.:thumbsup:

 

I just did my sisters house about 6 months ago. 12 interior slabs in 2 1/2 days. I usually don't do work for family, but she couldn't find anyone to do the doors without hanging prehungs. Although she probably didn't look all that hard.

 

"wow...you must be really good."

Am I out of touch as far as this technique is concerned? How many of you still install slab doors (provided the jamb/opening is worth saving)?

I have to admit I am puzzled at the recent comments regarding how difficult this task is...

You must have learned from an old timer, I suspect a lot of this new finish carpenter can't hang a door in an existing jamb for jack and GC's and other trades are getting accustomed to seeing inferior skill, for example so called finish carpenter that hang and only hang pre-hung doors.

 

Theres still some good old boys hangin doors into existing jambs.

Just the other day I was driving through Palm Springs looking for work amnd I cameacross a tract of homes,pulled in and found the foreman doing the set and finish.
He showed me a single story unit that had 10 doors to install.solid core 8 foot tall,4 hinge.
Hang and bore,labor only.....pays 10 bucks a door!

 

how long does it take you guys to hang a slab?

do you use templates, or a story board to match hinge to jamb?

just asking because it always seems to take me about two hours by the time i shim the hinges this way and that. talking about old construction here, not new.

any techniques you willing to share?

 

how long does it take you guys to hang a slab?

do you use templates, or a story board to match hinge to jamb?

just asking because it always seems to take me about two hours by the time i shim the hinges this way and that. talking about old construction here, not new.

any techniques you willing to share?

I measured the existing doors to get hinge locations as well as handlesets. This house had settled so badly that some of the doors had to be cut out of square at the top to match the jambs, which isn't really out of the ordinary, but 5/8" on one door in particular. I pre machined all the slabs in about 6 hours. (15 slabs) Took 2 men 10 hours to fit, hang and install with handlesets and bumpers. (cutting on ground level and installing on 2nd floor unit. Total 26 man hours for 15 slabs.

 

I still hang my own slabs when the job calls for it. A good test for a carpenter who says he is a finish guy would be to mock up a door opening, throw the legs out of plumb, the floor and head out of level, give him a slab with 3 hinges, come back in 1 hour, see what you got. G

 

I do it all the time. Usually have to line up the hinge mortise on the jamb and then match them on the slab.

Time-wise, probably about the same 2 hours it takes you. Depends on the condition of everything. If the door fits properly and no fitting is required then about an hour to hour 20.

 

yeah, but leo,

that's two hours after i've screwed up the first two hours.

 

If it's not totally FUBAR,
I just use the old door
for my story pole.

 

That's my routine. One difference from what I see folks saying here is that I've never quite gotten around to picking up a router template for the hinge mortises. I just freehand them, after scoring the cut lines with a utility knife.

My [poor] rationale is that (A) I don't do 10-20 a week, and (B) often the old hinges are getting re-used--and some of those don't match a standard modern template. Too easy to have the autopilot on and cut a standard mortise for a non-standard hinge.

Probably fodder for a whole different thread, but I see one lone handyman chiming in here. I've had quite a few folks tell me that their usual handyman doesn't do doors & windows. I guess some are more handy than others. :blink:

The transparent base plate
with the 2" opening for the P-C
makes this soooo nice. :thumbsup:

 

we do it often. I had a younger carpenter that has been with me about 5 years put one in today. It was a beast. I watched him on and off for about 4 hours. He did very well.

The force is strong with this one

 

Obi-Wan-Rory. :laughing:

 

LOL no credit due to me.

My oldest lead carpenter taught him well.

I just did not fire him on a few occasions that could have gone either way:laughing:

 

I'm in your area and I do slabs all the time. Just use the ol' PC jig, a story pole and pinch sticks - no problem. Once I get moving I can average one an hour. And I enjoy it.

 

I use old door as a template adding/taking off where need be.
lay old door on slab and transfer hinge marks, mark what needs to be cut off or added on.

I dont bore for knobs untill slab is hung and working properly. Then mark where center of strikes are onto the slab and drill

 

That's my routine. One difference from what I see folks saying here is that I've never quite gotten around to picking up a router template for the hinge mortises. I just freehand them, after scoring the cut lines with a utility knife.

My [poor] rationale is that (A) I don't do 10-20 a week, and (B) often the old hinges are getting re-used--and some of those don't match a standard modern template. Too easy to have the autopilot on and cut a standard mortise for a non-standard hinge.

Probably fodder for a whole different thread, but I see one lone handyman chiming in here. I've had quite a few folks tell me that their usual handyman doesn't do doors & windows. I guess some are more handy than others. :blink:

 

We used to have the door shop do them for us - but got tired of paying $125 for custom bore and hinge locations that looked as if they were done with a hammer and butt-plate. Also waiting 3-4 weeks AFTER the door slab finally arrived was not working out either.

Here is a good fabrication form that you can fill out during the consultation. (We only use the form and have not ordered slabs from HD.....yet)

I also just got this in recently but have not used it yet. This is on the way and hopefully will be here in the next week or so. They both had really good reviews so we shall see.

 

I do the same thing when there is only one or two doors. Mark the hinges, put them on the door, drill and screw them in. Score a heavy line with a utility knife, remove the hinge and free hand route it.

 

Cut a stick to 12 inches. Mark each corner of the door up from the floor and down from the head jamb. Check fit and swing and mark your notes on door.

Lay new slab out and old slab on top, with both doors oriented the same ( stop sides up or down, but both the same). Match the higher corners and align the edges flush. Using an engineers square or speed square, transfer hinge and edge (head jamb and floor marks you made before with the 12 inch stick).

Using an engineers square, transfer the hinge set back to new slab. Mortice for hinges and using previous 12 stick, transfer your marks back to the proper locations, strike a line and set up and edge guide and trim. Turn door into bucks and plane edge to 5 degrees so door clears jamb as it swing be closed.

Install hinges, install slab and hang. Mark for lockset, bore and install.

Step back and enjoy.

 

I'm in the process of changing the doors at my own home....what a PITA.


I did see a sign at Big Box one day recently... 15 doors hung/$199.00 :blink:

I think the offer involves some sort of butt-lube :shutup:

 

I'm in the process of changing the doors at my own home....what a PITA.

:shutup:

Celtic another word of advice. The box stores sell slabs about 10-15 bucks cheaper than the lumber yards but.........they dont come beveled making installation much more challenging to the occassional carpenter.

 

Ive got 2 to hang tomorrow , 2 2'0s to replace the single 4'0. Yep, a 6 panel 4'0.
There is a reason they arent that popular.

 

I work on a lot of older homes that were built before standards, I also build doors so much of this is Status Quo for me.

The most recent was 40-3/8" X 90-1/4", must have been a big guy that built the house. It had also settled some so being square was also out. The door was built oversized and customized on site to the original hinges and hardware. I love old homes!

 

the plastic porta cable ones work great and come with the router bit

 

In case anyone gives a rats ass, I took some picts of my install today. it was hotter than F'in hell, in case you were wondering.
There was a 6 panel 4'0 in this opening.:blink: Went with 2 2'0s to replace it.
First thing I do is check the jamb for plumb , level, and square. Then pull my mark from the top of my door 6 1/8 down (set ahead) for the top hinge and 67 5/8 (set ahead)for the bottom. I divide the difference for the center,..this one has 4 hinges total.
Then I measure the height and cut the bottom as needed.

 

Then I set my hinge on the door and mark the edge of it, and use that hinge to mark my door and jamb.
I usually use and old router bit to cut old jambs since I really dont know whats under the paint. I hit 2 nails and 2 screws.I would suggest wearing safety goggles/glasses when doing the jambs(if theyre old).Got a piece of steel in my eye ( SUCKS!) from one of the nails on this one.
And yes I know,...this jamb was a piece of ****.

 

With double doors like that I have actually put in two doors that are different sizes. A 32" and a 16" would work well there. That way one door could be used as a pass through and the other could be opened when you need the full width.

 

Ive done that too and sometimes it works out better. He already had the doors so,...all I needed to do was install them.

 

Separate the hinges and install them on the door and jamb. Set the door and cut more off the bottom if needed. Lay my T-astrigal strip on the active door and mark the stationary and cut it. I usually add 1/8 pass the mark to allow for the other door to swing and not rub.
Measure down 44 1/16 and 2 3/8 over from the edge to the center of the bore, then 6" up from that for the deadbolt,bore them in place. install the knobs and deadbolts.. This guy wanted to use the old hardware,...PITF'inA The deadbolt wouldnt come apart and the knob was rusted and didnt work worth a ****..