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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been asked to build this bar on a job we took over.

Never built anything like this before, so any advice would be appreciated.

He wants doors on the lower portion & open on the upper portion. I haven't frequented a bar for 3 decades, so I don't have much experience on the functionality of a bar. :) My thoughts, there needs to be at least 9-12" of height available between the upper & lower counter tops. Would 48" be too tall for the overall bar height, with a working height of 36" on the backside of the bar?


Bar will be made using rough sawn white oak, with circle sawn kerfs left in & & enhanced. Tops will be 2" thick maple with walnut butterflies inlaid. There will also be a backbar with sink. 18" deep & upper cabinets with mirror back & barn window style doors.

There's several "I haven't done that befores" in this bar, so I'm also struggling to come up with a $# Mainly because I'm not sure how much extra time the unknowns are going to take.

I'll be back on this job mid week next week, so I'm hoping to get all the #'s & ideas hashed out so I can start moving the project forward.

I've included some rough renderings & a picture of where the bars going.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think the space is to rustic for a curve.

It's not going on the staircase side is it?

Tom
Changing that feature, is not an option. He's adamant he wants the curve. The bar is going to be very rustic as well, why would the curve not fit the theme?

It will be to the front side of the 2 posts on the right side, bumping against the stairway.

The backbar will be under the stairs. The right side upper cabinet will be the same angle as the stairs.
 

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The staircase really limits the headroom for the tender. The post bracket on the left also limits head room.

Not a single curve in the photo. If you have to do the curve, add an arch in front of the mirror on the back bar.

I hate adding elements that don't tie things together. If the post brackets had a cove shape I'd be good with the curve.

The speed rail (lower section) can be 4-6" below the primary top.

Do you know the width of the bar and projection of the curve?

Doors on both the back bar and primary bar to the rear?

Tom
 

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I have built several bars and the height has usually been 42" to accomidate regular bar stools.I don't think I've ever seen the rear bar rail any deeper than 1 1/2" from the main top.
Just from looking at the drawing the proporsions look off.The bar top needs to extend more.If your stool was flush against the foot rail the bar top would be to far away forcing you to bend over..
The problem with doors on the bottom and storage space is the equipment that need to be installed.Sinks, coolers and such that are available go to the floor.I would definetly want the specs on the exact equipment to be installed before bidding this project.
He may want the lower bar to be that much lower so he can store bottles of liquer
on it but that is not up to code in this area.Easy to get knock off.
 

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I'm in the process doing a design for a finish basement and there will be a similar bar but without columns.

They will be using 3/4" bendable plywood for the corner cabinets.
 

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Just from looking at the drawing the proporsions look off.The bar top needs to extend more.If your stool was flush against the foot rail the bar top would be to far away forcing you to bend over..
I second that the top need to be wider. At least equal to the foot rail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
The staircase really limits the headroom for the tender. The post bracket on the left also limits head room.

Not a single curve in the photo. If you have to do the curve, add an arch in front of the mirror on the back bar.

I hate adding elements that don't tie things together. If the post brackets had a cove shape I'd be good with the curve.

The speed rail (lower section) can be 4-6" below the primary top.

Do you know the width of the bar and projection of the curve?

Doors on both the back bar and primary bar to the rear?

Tom
Headroom on the stairs is a bit of a problem IMO, but the braces aren't. I'm 6' tall & I can't hit my head on them.


I don't disagree about the curve not matching any other elements in the project. As I've said, I'm coming in late to the party & had no input on designing the project. Other than this bar, all materials were already purchsed for the project. Many things don't go together IMO, but the local sawmill who sold him the hardwoods, mouldings, beam wraps ect helped him with the design of the addition & the elements that went in. I'm just here to finish up the project since the last 2 contractors were let go.

Width of the bar, is 9'6" & my initial rendering projects it about 4'.

Yes, doors on the primary bar & the back bar. Back bar will just be upper (9" deep) & lower cabinets, (18" deep) with a small sink.



I have built several bars and the height has usually been 42" to accomidate regular bar stools.I don't think I've ever seen the rear bar rail any deeper than 1 1/2" from the main top.
Just from looking at the drawing the proporsions look off.The bar top needs to extend more.If your stool was flush against the foot rail the bar top would be to far away forcing you to bend over..
The problem with doors on the bottom and storage space is the equipment that need to be installed.Sinks, coolers and such that are available go to the floor.I would definetly want the specs on the exact equipment to be installed before bidding this project.
He may want the lower bar to be that much lower so he can store bottles of liquer
on it but that is not up to code in this area.Easy to get knock off.
Good point about the top needing to project out another 6". I'll redraw that to match the foot rail.

The HO, like me, doesn't drink, it's primarly just for the look he wants. There will be no equipment installed under the primary bar. Small cubby was finished in under the stairs for a small fridge. Small sink in the back bar cabinets. There's no code enforcement where this is being built.


I second that the top need to be wider. At least equal to the foot rail.
Agreed, will redraw.

42" to the tops, tops need to be about 24" deep plus the rail.

I also agree that the curved front will look out of place tucked under that timber frame structure.

Head room also sucks.
The 42" was my thinking, but wanted confirmation. The rendering is drawn at 48, mainly because he thinks he wants 9-12" between the lower top & the upper top. I was thinking 36" work surface on the primary bar. I might mock up 33" lower & 42" upper & see how that feels to him.

Appreciate all the input guys.
 

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Lay out the radius on the floor, I think 4' projection in 9'6" is a little to much. I'd be looking between 38-42".

I recall you came into this project late, good luck with the follow through.

Tom
 

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Is it a curve or just smaller straight sections to simulate a curve. Big difference in price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Lay out the radius on the floor, I think 4' projection in 9'6" is a little to much. I'd be looking between 38-42".

I recall you came into this project late, good luck with the follow through.

Tom

4' is from the back side of the posts, to the front side of the bar.
So the arc is only 2' & the bar is 2' thick.

Follow through won't be a problem. We've already been on the project for 4 weeks now & have already cashed 2 substantial checks. Still got about 2 more weeks to go, plus the bar & possibly a king sized bed.
 

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You need to stick to the 42" for the upper unless they can get a stool they want for a taller bar. Lowering the lower counter should be good as long as the fridge will fit. It's not a major prep surface so 33-34 should be comfortable for anyone. As low as 32" is comfortable for people that are 5'6" or shorter.

I'd probably try to skip doors on the bar just because they'll hit with the angles and it also looks a little tight behind the bar. What's the walking corridor between the wall cabs and the posts?

Overhang on the bar should be at least 12" or you'll have to lean in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I worked on the drawings again this morning. Here's what I've come up with based on the input you guys have given me. 42" top of the main bar. 32" to the top of the lower bar. 36" to the back bar. Back bar will have a small sink. Main bar will have electric, but nothing else appliance wise.

The 3 tops will take around 200 bd ft of 2" maple to build. Got a quote of $5.75/bd ft for the maple.

Now, I've just gotta figure out how many hours I think it's gonna take to build & install this sucker.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'd probably try to skip doors on the bar just because they'll hit with the angles and it also looks a little tight behind the bar. What's the walking corridor between the wall cabs and the posts?

It's tight. 24", thus the reason for the curved bar. With the curve, it gives 48" of space in the middle between the bars.
 

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