I just got a quote from a roofer to re-roof my parents cottage. He is suggesting that the whole roof gets Ice and Water shield as the pitch is not sufficient. At what pitch would you recommend this ? I should mention that this is an area that gets lots of show and because it is a vacation home get heated for a week/weekend at a time then all heat is turned off while not in use.
Ice and water shield
mckellarman
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So, Firestone has moved to metal now. And their panels are porous so they need an underlay to warranty it. Thanks for the heads up. I'll use a different manufacturer.
Here's my underlay.
It's a natural underlay and doesn't require oil products.
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648 Posts
Damn tinner, that looks like some of my underlayment too. And, yes, Firestone bought unaclad a few years ago but I don't see anything about requiring ice/water for a proper warranty. Never seen any spec on my systems that specifically say anything about ice/water except for normal usage. All specs and warranties are job-specific.
sigh......... if you are depending on the underlayment to keep out the weather, you are doing something wrong.....again:whistling:whistling:whistling
sigh......... if you are depending on the underlayment to keep out the weather, you are doing something wrong.....again:whistling:whistling:whistling
Holy Hatchet job batman,I woulnt be a bit proud of thoose pictures. Putting metal on bare wood ? sure a good mechanic can make anything tight , but its disgrasefull to take pride in doing things wrong and not to mention against code and all warranties "well maybee its tailgate warranty with some of you". Shamefull. Hey Is that caulking on your joints ? and I thought you were a good tin knocker.
Tisk Tisk
Tisk Tisk
I must have forgot to include the link. Here it is.
Neat link Bull. Seem that the underlay will be the roof and the metal a UV shield.
Jim. Seams were soldered, but at the wall, the folds were double-locked and soldered shut at lowest portion. After folding the double locks against the wall, a bit of sealant was used to prevent any spay getting behind there.
We further modified that to not having any cuts at all there. Every thing is now boxed in. No solder needed, steel, tin, or copper.
As for underlay, dried pine is perfect. Felt under tin voids warranty. And if the roof is done correctly, it's totally unnecessary. I have some going back to the 1960's, which I'll admit isn't much of a 'Test of Time', and more time will be needed to watch out for any failures.
Jim. Seams were soldered, but at the wall, the folds were double-locked and soldered shut at lowest portion. After folding the double locks against the wall, a bit of sealant was used to prevent any spay getting behind there.
We further modified that to not having any cuts at all there. Every thing is now boxed in. No solder needed, steel, tin, or copper.
As for underlay, dried pine is perfect. Felt under tin voids warranty. And if the roof is done correctly, it's totally unnecessary. I have some going back to the 1960's, which I'll admit isn't much of a 'Test of Time', and more time will be needed to watch out for any failures.
I should have mentioned that the wood decks shown were in excess of 90 years of age and the original roofs were both tin, and had rusted through from the outside due to lack of maintanence.
In the upper picture, behind my brother, you can see the bottom of the original tin and a cleat. We fold area 'open' and roof what we can. Where we stop, we roll the original back over the new to waterproof until the next day, week, or whatever. That tin was on during the Civil War.
In the upper picture, behind my brother, you can see the bottom of the original tin and a cleat. We fold area 'open' and roof what we can. Where we stop, we roll the original back over the new to waterproof until the next day, week, or whatever. That tin was on during the Civil War.
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7,251 Posts
Probably because the back side of the shingles are solidly stuck to it.
That was my experience 1 1/2 years ago.
Ed
That was my experience 1 1/2 years ago.
Ed
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20 Posts
Is that metal shingles also?
I am in the middle of building a 10 x 34 porch onto an outbuilding for my parents. The pitch is only 1 3/8 /12. I just finished putting 2 layers of ice and water shield over the decking. Can I put a layer of 15lb felt between the I&W sheild and the shingles to make reroofing easier someday? I'd hate to think of ripping everything off down to the rafters someday.
I'd say you can do whatever you want since you're not paying any attention to instructions anyway. 2/12 is the minimum slope for any shingles I'm aware of.
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17,394 Posts
Sassyalice is bringing 'em back to life here and at DIY
Or having to replace the rafters as a result of inadequate pitch...
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
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