Not sure if it voids the warrenty but you could probably go to the manufacturer's web site and find out. Did you overlap the seems or butt them up to each other? Why 6 ft. lengths? Would take less time and be easier in a single peice.

 

it comes in a 3' roll, does it not ?

 

I wouldn't worry about it. You will not void the warranty. As far as I know, I&W has no stated warranty of any kind.

 

No, you did not violate their installation instructions.

Ed

http://www.graceathome.com/pages/downloads/GIWS-060P.pdf

Membrane Installation:
​

Apply Grace Ice &Water Shield in fair weather when the
air, roof deck, and membrane are at temperatures of 40°F
(5°C) or higher. Apply roof covering material at temperatures
of 40°F (5°C) or higher.

Cut the membrane into 10–15 ft (3–5 m) lengths and reroll
loosely. Peel back 1–2 ft (300–600 mm) of release liner,
align the membrane, and continue to peel the release liner
from the membrane. Press the membrane in place with
heavy hand pressure. Side laps must be a minimum of 3.5 in.
(90 mm) and end laps a minimum of 6 in. (150 mm). For
valley and ridge application, peel the release liner, center the
sheet over the valley or ridge, drape, and press it in place.
Work from the center of the valley or ridge outward in each
direction and start at the low point and work up the roof.

Alternatively, starting with a full roll of membrane, unroll a
3–6 ft (1–2 m) piece of membrane leaving the release liner
in place. Align the membrane and roll in the intended direction
of membrane application. Carefully cut the release liner
on top of the roll in the cross direction being careful not to
cut the membrane. Peel back about 6 in. (150 mm) of the
release liner in the opposite direction of the intended
membrane application exposing the black adhesive. Hold
the release liner with one hand and pull the roll along the
deck with the release liner, leaving the applied membrane
behind. Use the other hand to apply pressure on the top of
the roll. Stop frequently to press the membrane in place with
heavy hand pressure.When finished with the roll go back to
the beginning, reroll and pull the remaining release paper
from the material, finishing the installation.

For successive membrane courses, align the edge of the
release liner with the dashed line provided on the surface of​

the membrane to achieve the 3.5 in. (90 mm) side lap.

 

Also, the GraceAtHome.com site states the following:

32. Where can I get warranty information on your products?
Warranty is printed on product packaging. If you need further information, call 866-333-3726.

It is obviously Item # 32 on their FAQ page.

The link to that page is here:

http://www.graceathome.com/pages/roof_faq.htm#THIRTYTWO

Ed

 

About 10 years ago I had a city inspector tell me the ice and water was suposed to be cut into 6ft sections with a 6in side lap. I thought he was nuts until he showed me the Certainteed Winterguard box and it said it was recommended to prevent bubling. Since it was only recommended and not required he couldn't make us tear it up.

 

I had a city inspector tell me...

:laughing:

Dougger...Bad sign #1!

10 years ago is a long time...I wonder, is that still the suggested application method?

Taking that into account, I suggest laying out I&W exactly as spec'd on it's instructions or using common sense. Sometimes, (actually, most times) experienced Roofers know a whole lot more than a lab technician in a wharehouse with water machines, sun lamps and computer controlled weather simulations.

To me, common sense dictates that one long uninterrupted application without seams is always better than a seam every 6 feet.

Besides ease of installation, the less seams on a roof, the better.

But hey, that's just a quarter of a century of experience roofing talking.

:thumbsup:

 

Since when do you follow instructions?

Every shingle (39") is a seam that doesn't even seal.

 

If you lapped six inches of product every six feet that is a lot of product used. More than likely this could have been the thinking behind it.

That particular inspector is a real pain in the you know were.

 

You're lucky if it's that particlar one there...round here, almost all of them are.

:laughing:

Maybe there were problems with I&W in the beginning that required it to be installed in that manner,
but once it's on and has 5 nails average within every square foot, what bubbling could they expect?

Thats a good 15 nails for every linear foot.

Not to mention a couple of pounds of material sitting on every square foot.

 

I have seen a lot of bubbling of I&W, mostly with thin fiberglass shingles but I have also seen it in 30 year laminate shingles. Most commonly the largest bubbles occure directly over plywood butts.

My guess would be is the I&W wasn't pulled tight enough prior to tacking.

On the job today I had to cut a few bubbles out of the I&W which were right over plywood butts.

 

Wow.

I've never seen anything like that.

Maybe it's a regional thing.

 

I work with a few really nice inspectors. One city mails the home owners a letter the day a permit is pulled to not pay the contractor until the inspection has passed. That city requires on site inspection of the I&W. We all know how busy the inspectors are and getting them on site for that one hour window is near impossible.

When the inspector shows up he isn't happy when he sees the roof is done but always comments on how nice the pictures are (while looking at the digital camera) and also comments on how nice the roof looks!

Last Fall on a roof inspection he said, "Wow, that's a lot of vents"! When asked if that was a bad thing he said it was great.

This year I took the contractors renewal class from a city inspector. It was interesting to say the least.

 

Yep, I have seen bubbling also. Mainly when a cheap company comes in and puts GAF 3 tabs on.

 

What area are you from 2nd gen?

Up here in MN we get some days were the temps can drop 50-60 degrees in less than 24 hours. One reason why organic shingles were so popular in the past here is they rarely ever did the thermal expansion like fiberglass three tabs. As a matter of fact on the hundreds of organic roofs I have been on never recall seeing any thermal cracking. Of course the Horizon and New Horizons have the spider cracks but those are not like the thermal cracks on the 3 tab fiberglass shingles.

The roof we finished today had a thermal crack in the center of the back that went from the bottom of the roof right to the top. Luckily for the home owner there was a layer of diamond shaped asphalt shingles under them and another layer of really good condition cedar shingles under those.

Another reason why the I&W is bubbling on the plywood butts may be due to movement of the sheating/structure.

Perhaps Ed can chime in and give his idea as to why it could occure??? He's a few states away and has similiar weather to MN in most respects.

 

What area are you from 2nd gen?

Up here in MN we get some days were the temps can drop 50-60 degrees in less than 24 hours.

I'm from New York...but I'm familiar with the midwest...I lived in Milwaukee for a couple of years.

One reason why organic shingles were so popular in the past here is they rarely ever did the thermal expansion like fiberglass three tabs. As a matter of fact on the hundreds of organic roofs I have been on never recall seeing any thermal cracking. Of course the Horizon and New Horizons have the spider cracks but those are not like the thermal cracks on the 3 tab fiberglass shingles.

Organic VS Fiberglass is definately a regional thing.
Here, it's all pretty much Fiberglass.

Another reason why the I&W is bubbling on the plywood butts may be due to movement of the sheating/structure.

Do you guys space the sheathing apart 1/8" (8D nail's width) for expansion and contraction?

Perhaps Ed can chime in and give his idea as to why it could occure??? He's a few states away and has similiar weather to MN in most respects.

I remember when I was working in Arizona.

They were at a complete loss when it came to installing I&W. They didn't have a clue. The company's Project Manager was trying to teach the foremen how to do it. I must've interrupted him a good 5 times until finally I just took over the presentation (mind you, I was just a lowly Superintendant). Of course, the PM wasn't happy with this.

But he didn't even know what I&W was for.
Granted, I didn't expect Arizona to know anything about Ice Damming.

I've always wanted to go to Seattle for a spell to see how those guys roof.

Matter of fact, this sounds like a good idea for a new thread!

 

Sorry Doug,

Most of the jobs I tear off still don't have any Ice and Water Shield on them.

We don't get to re-do our roofs every 2-3 years due to large hail like you do.

My guesses would be, moisture content in the organic dimensional lumber, whether it be Plywood or OSB or going over a slightly wet deck. Possibly the applicator not ensuring it is stuck in the first place. I wonder if internal attic humidity over extended periods of time could cause it.

All just guesses though.

Ed

 

Ed, I bet you see a fair amount of bad sheating at the eaves then? The only times we get to tear off roofs with no ice and water are when we do two or more layer tear offs which I really don't like. Most roofs are torn off in MN at about 12-16 years due to shingle failure.

There are no more organic shingles being sold in MN. About 2-3 years ago they were totally fazed out. It was said Certainteed could produce 3 sq of fiberglass three tabs in the amount of time it took to produce 1 sq of organic shingles. They more than likely also quit making them because of all the warranty claims.

Most jobs have H-clips so yes the decking is spaced. The bubbles of course run vertical usually were the ends of the decking butts together. Never seen a framer gap the horizontal gaps in the decking. Nothing is worse than going to a tear off that is 80's plywood with no H-clips and no spaced sheating. What my Dad likes to do is run the Senco PW and step on the high side of the seam and staple together to lay flat, works good. The other fix is to R&R the decking. Rarely see that problem with OSB which is why I like to tear off roofs better with that product rather than plywood. It's nice when you have to do little to no prep work after tearing off to get ready for the new roof.

Ed, do you think the bubbles could be caused from the W&I not being pulled tight enough? I know on some jobs I have to cut slits in the W&I and put new stips over them after sitting for a day or two (new roofs). Your guesses make sense too. It's never good to put underlayment or decking over a wet roof surface.

 

I go through a LOT of plywood every year. When I was a little bit fatter in the bank, before I bought my recent home 3 1/2 years ago, I used to buy a Semi Load of plywood at a time and thet would last about 3/4 of the season. Mind you, I do not run a big and volume based company, so that is quite telling right there.

I personally could not see that any minor bubbles in I & W Shield would be any detriment to the water-tight integrity of the roof. If a shingle nail punctured right in a bubbled spot, then theoretically, it should lay down, I would think and still be an under shingle ice dam barrier, regardless of the bubbles.

I rarely see H-Clips on any deck sheathing around here, unless we are replacing all with new decking.

We also use 8 penny nails at the vertical abuttments, to allow for an expansion gap between the sheets vertically.

Also, when the decking is buckled, I believe that an expansion joint should be saw cut down the horizontal seams too. I like your Dads stape idea. What does he use for staple sizes? Wide crown and what length? I would use 2", since that is what I primarily keep in stock. By the way, when cutting expansion joints, I either charge a buck a lineal foot or by T & M. I feel it is a necessity, so that the deck sheathing will not bridge further and create picture framing telegraphing through the newly installed shingles.

Ed

 

I just wonder how I&W is strong enough to telegraph through shingles after i's had 5 holes punched into it and at least a pound and a half laying on it.

Wouldn't the holes being punched in it totally take away it's ability to bubble up?
Even if it busted through the head of the nail that it would have to go through the shingle first?

Maybe I'm understanding it wrong. arty:

 

We just did a new construction house. The sheathing was 1/2" CDX on 16" centers the plywood was tight every where. I ask the homeowner why the GC didn't clip it and he was told that it wasn't needed because the were only for strength. I explained to him about the buckling of the sheathing. I'm guessing in a few years I will be called back to reroof the house and maybe resheath it too.

 

On install mistake made is weather...if it's cool, the ply needs to definately be at least 1/8" apart.
If it's in the hottest part of the summer, then they don't have to be 1/8" apart because there's no where for them left to go but contracting (which'll draw the perimeter of the roof in). At the same time, I'd never butt them up against each other tight.

 

It does not void the warranty.

I"ve been roofing for 25 years and have always cut the Ice & Water shield into 7-8' sections. It just makes it easier for one person to install.

 

Ed,

My father uses Senco PW's which have a 1 inch crown and he shoots 1 1/4 staples through them which I think are the longest they will shoot. It's a been a long time since I've shot a staple gun though. Doing this makes the decking come together nicely betwen the trusses and it's a lot faster than replacing warped decking which of course is still very solid. It's sort of like stiching up a wound! If you really wanted to go all out you could sneak up in he attic and bend the ends over. Usually when we do the stapling the buckles are around 1/2 to 3/4 inch off. If an inch or more we usually take the saw to it and replace.

A few years ago Home Depot quit selling Senco staples so I bought 15 boxes of 1 1/4 inch for around $11 per box.

The bubbles in the I&W is only cosmetic.