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When I bid work, and the HO asks for a textured lid I price much higher than a smooth finish. Reason being is it's very hard to patch in a texture if something was to ever happen down the road. Anyone else do the same? I'm not a finisher by trade, but im a hanger, and my finisher buddies gave me this advice
 

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When I bid work, and the HO asks for a textured lid I price much higher than a smooth finish. Reason being is it's very hard to patch in a texture if something was to ever happen down the road. Anyone else do the same? I'm not a finisher by trade, but im a hanger, and my finisher buddies gave me this advice
no...
 

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Depends on what part of the country you're in.

In midwest, texture is cheaper. I've bid jobs on the east coast and got charged more for a textured finish.
 

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In Fla. the price for smooth is higher. Because a smooth requires a lot better quality of finish. Texture will hide a bad mud job.
 

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Home Repairs
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When I bid work, and the HO asks for a textured lid I price much higher than a smooth finish. Reason being is it's very hard to patch in a texture if something was to ever happen down the road. Anyone else do the same? I'm not a finisher by trade, but im a hanger, and my finisher buddies gave me this advice


That is open to debate. I would much rather do a texture repair in a lot of cases. Sunlight or artificial light can expose any minor defect in workmanship on slick walls and ceilings. Textured surfaces often break up light that can expose minor flaws. I take pride in my work, but still catch minor things when I am finished. I know what will paint well and what will not.

I charge extra for texture on new work because it requires more materials and labor. Not because it is harder to repair.
 

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We charge more for smooth or level 5 finish. The only texture that is hard to match or blend in is a spray knockdown. That look is dying off so we dont get asked to do it much. When asked to do a spray KD I will do what I can to talk them out of it,,, even offering a hand texture. I hate spray KD and will charge more to get out of doing it
 

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Home Repairs
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We charge more for smooth or level 5 finish. The only texture that is hard to match or blend in is a spray knockdown. That look is dying off so we dont get asked to do it much. When asked to do a spray KD I will do what I can to talk them out of it,,, even offering a hand texture. I hate spray KD and will charge more to get out of doing it
Chris, almost every time that I come in behind some guy that screwed up a KD repair, it is because he built up his mud too high and failed to kill the edges. Then they usually had pulled a stiff knife over the repair spray which will leave long smears instead of the pretty nugget pattern. This will jump right out at you along the edges of the repair. The edges will look like a knock down blade never touched the spray, and the middle of the repair will be a bid smear job.

I use just enough hot mud on repairs to barely cover the mesh. How far I bust out the sides depends on how much my knife rocks along the edges. I vee the patch joints with with a utility knife so the board paper does not to raise the joint where the mesh is placed. I work the hot mud with a wet sponge and 6" knife as it is setting to bring the old KD through my mud. I work all the edges with the sponge until the mud eventually looks like stain over the original work. I will play with the viscosity of my repair mud until until I know it matches the origianal depth and pattern. I always pull the KD knife across the repair and not down the center. ( this will cause smearing) My my favorate KD repair blade is a garage door seal. It is flexible and I can swipe it over the repair spray many times if I want to be really precise on matching the depth of the original spray. The door seal works great on repairs. I have 2 that I carry around with me every day. (10" & 14"). I use them for jobs up to a full board.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/MD-Build...ipping-Sweep-for-Garage-Doors-87684/100353490
 
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