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Discussion Starter #1
Good Afternoon,

I am looking for ways to reduce my overhead on this huge 75 unit mid rise building. There is ALOT of molding in these units; crown, neck, base, and chair. Because these units are not sold yet, I have to maintain these units, and at least twice a year recaulk them. I am looking for a way to cut this down. Is there a caulk that anyone swears by? We use builders grade caulk, which costs about 2 dollars a bottle, but would gladly pay more for a more flexible caulk which does not crack with the temperature. Please help. Thank you for your time.

Alex
 

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where can i find big stretch and where would i find this? Do you know the cost of this caulking? I was told to use siloflex, you ever hear of this? We do use a 50 year duron caulk but its no good
 

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hahaha no, work for them. Looking to see if anyone knows of a good caulk to use that is more flexible. Crown molding and other moldings keep separating, and looking for a way to prevent that. Any ideas?
 

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hahaha no, work for them. Looking to see if anyone knows of a good caulk to use that is more flexible. Crown molding and other moldings keep separating, and looking for a way to prevent that. Any ideas?
Regardless, please fill out your profile including area and a valid trade.
 

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hahaha no, work for them. Looking to see if anyone knows of a good caulk to use that is more flexible. Crown molding and other moldings keep separating, and looking for a way to prevent that. Any ideas?
Many....:laughing:

I don't know how quickly you turnaround houses, but if you are framing, and slapping drywall and trim on in a few weeks of framing, things are bound to move around.

Not to mention, if you are building in cold weather and not letting the trim acclimate to a heated house, it will expand and contract much more - same with in the summer.

Also, if you are having "trim carpenters" installing crown without much care, and they are missing studs, nailers, joists, etc...it will move.

Just too many reasons and too many unknowns....I doubt it is caulk, though....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Caulk may not be the root cause, but i think its the best alternative. We do let the moldings acclimate to the indoor temperature. Also, this is 5 story 75 unit building and it is all steel frame. You dont think there is a better caulk that will be more flexible?

And to the other gentleman, we are not looking to be cheap. I agree, penny wise and pound foolish is the problem w/ the caulk we use, that is why I am looking for insight. I would much rather work a better higher quality caulk into the contract and scopes of work, rather then spending it on overhead later on.
 

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I like to put wood nailer blocks with liquid nails and screws. I would cope Unless it's mdf. And I like polyseam seal adhesive caulk. Your probably letting the temp drop to low in the units.
 

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Sherlastic from Sherwin Williams. Most of caulking we installed 10 years ago hasn't cracked. But I hit studs when I install trim. It is around 5 dollars a tube for people coming off the street. JAW
 

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I think any 55yr caulk will work better than what you are doing now. Big Stretch if it is a big gap that keeps cracking after that.
 

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sounds like the like the trim wasnt installed very tight. you need a better trim guy
 

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Ramsden Painting
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We prefer Phenoseal® Does It Clear!® Acrylic Latex Adhesive Caulk. We have not had any problem even with settlling and extreme temp changes
 

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Pulte, Centex, they're both the same nationwide resid development company now.

Alex, wherever your problem is, whichever state, etc. I'd not get caught up in the details and just make sure to hire a quality American company that employs quality minded American workers that will guarantee their work.
Pay them good and let the GC and Subs do their quality work. :thumbsup:
 

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ive tried every caulk out there and if its gonna split its gonna split......... dont change your game, just caulk and go .........
 
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