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I have to build two of these JULY 3 - for parties on JULY 4

6487 Views 63 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  ClemS
I just was asked to build two sets of partial octagon steps and one set 3' wide - all 29" high, wrapped in light gray TT or Trex (whatever most closely matches the existing deck materials) at two different locations tomorrow. Big rush...we're having friends over for the 4th.

A friend of mine has been pouring / stamping concrete out there and people just walk up and ask for things to be done...I haven't seen the site but he got me some pix and dimensions over the phone - we shall see how this works out.

Here is a picture sent to me of what a neighbor's existing set looks like - that they both want.

Holy cow man - I'm in the middle of an addition - but like I believe - it's better to be TOO busy that campin' on the couch. It like off to the races time tomorrow.

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TT Floorizon or old Certainteed boardwalk??

Lots of blocking- and consider making the steps using 2x8 boxes instead of stringers.

Of course- if I know you, you have some incredible drawings already created, so I'll just retreat back into my cave...
~Matt
Now that there's funny, I don't care what you say. :laughing:

I laid carpet in a rental unit today; got a half day's pay for an hour's work, because the new tenants are moving in this weekend. :thumbsup:

Git R done!
I just was asked to build two sets of partial octagon steps and one set 3' wide - all 29" high, wrapped in light gray TT or Trex (whatever most closely matches the existing deck materials) at two different locations tomorrow. Big rush...we're having friends over for the 4th.
I don't know - it was "promised" to the HO that "a stair master" could get this done. I am not a finish-anything master - especially under a lack of forethought imposed deadline. I think the phrase that comes to mind is...your lack of preparation on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine.

TT Floorizon or old Certainteed boardwalk??
Lots of blocking- and consider making the steps using 2x8 boxes instead of stringers.
See...I knew bringing this to the "brotherhood" was a good thing. I was all focused on stringers until you mentioned boxes. I like that idea. It will be sitting on concrete and I could screw it to the deck through the top box. As much as I like stringers, I think I will be able to more easily add solid support blocking with a stacked box design - thank you.

Of course- if I know you, you have some incredible drawings already created, so I'll just retreat back into my cave...
~Matt
pssst...I'll let you in on a little secret. I suck at on the fly construction. I know guys that can get into the zone and crunch information and numbers as fast as they hit them in the field. I only do that when I have failed to prepare the night before.

I draw out everything as a "build on paper" exercise just to walk through the process in my head. Then my on-site time is absolutely MAXX-imized.

Unless there are any convincing votes for stringers - stacked boxes it shall be.
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Ohhh, I love a challange and a rush job. There are lots of fee's involved in that.

I think stacked boxes is the quickest way. I am more of a design on the fly kind of guy. I can lay things out, draw them up, all sorts of prep and guess what, never goes right.
3 steps total? I vote boxes too.

Have a good 4th - enjoy the extra coin this rush job brings ya!

Mac
Here's the framework [pdf]

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Would they object to having the tread overhang the riser? Also depending on the mat, Usually 5/4x6 i like to lay out to use full boards for the tread width. G
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his top step framing has 10 3/8" depth. Installing a 3/4" thick riser takes it out to 11 1/8".
If he runs risers behind back treads, his front tread will stick out ~3/4" over the riser below it...

Mac
Sweet, i was to tired to do the basic math, just home from a wedding, thats what i was hoping for G
his top step framing has 10 3/8" depth. Installing a 3/4" thick riser takes it out to 11 1/8".
If he runs risers behind back treads, his front tread will stick out ~3/4" over the riser below it...

Mac
I was thinking of running the treads over, flush, with the riser skirts. I don't like the way it was done in the two pictures I was sent...it just seems weird to me to be stepping directly on the skirt board edge directly. I guess it would work, but I am going to see how their original deck was built and match it.

I feel like I am forgetting something - (and I really hate that feeling):blink:
I cut those stringers one day on the same type stairs, pain in the butt and time consuming.

I vote for the boxes too, hindsight is 20/20
Yup.

If I knew the concrete was level - I'd try and shop build these. Thanks for putting the eagle eye on things for me.

I appreciate all the collective time spent to review this event prior to its execution.
his top step framing has 10 3/8" depth. Installing a 3/4" thick riser takes it out to 11 1/8".
If he runs risers behind back treads, his front tread will stick out ~3/4" over the riser below it...

Mac
Tellem you can build them, but when the guests arrive, they'll haf to enter around the back, CUZ - I - AINT - DONE - YET!!:shutup:
You can build in the shop, if your dimensions are accurate. The first section that lands on the cement pad will get shimmed level, then taper the riser trim board. G
Yup.

If I knew the concrete was level - I'd try and shop build these. Thanks for putting the eagle eye on things for me.

I appreciate all the collective time spent to review this event prior to its execution.
You're right, riser skirt board should always go under tread. Besides the stepping on it, dirt/crap builds up in there slowing forcing the board loose.
I was thinking of running the treads over, flush, with the riser skirts. I don't like the way it was done in the two pictures I was sent...it just seems weird to me to be stepping directly on the skirt board edge directly. I guess it would work, but I am going to see how their original deck was built and match it.
They need a 1 1/4" overhang on the treads to be legal here in CT.

I would do them in a box style also. Small rush jobs are typically double price. :w00t:
Our wonderful city only allows 1/4" overhang on treads.

Agree on the rush job pricing, you want it fast it'll cost ya.
They need a 1 1/4" overhang on the treads to be legal here in CT.

I would do them in a box style also. Small rush jobs are typically double price. :w00t:
They need a 1 1/4" overhang on the treads to be legal here in CT.

I would do them in a box style also. Small rush jobs are typically double price. :w00t:
Our wonderful city only allows 1/4" overhang on treads.

Agree on the rush job pricing, you want it fast it'll cost ya.

ANd we have a 1" tread overhang.
tread overhang is all aesthetics. no real different otherwise.
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