How would you support this roof?
Putting together a bid to replace both sides of this structure. The steel stairs are free standing from the wooden porches. Building is brick. How you do temp support of the roof? I have a couple ideas, but don't often do work 40' up and would like your feedback.
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I need more info and pics, but possibly a large memory frame from each side of the building. Be expensive though.
One floor at a time.......
Rebuild it the same way it was built.....
Rebuild it the same way it was built.....
You could rent shoring from a commercial forms/ scaffolding company. Build the shoring system and set a steel beam across it
Definitely.
Always start with the mkst complicated idea and work from there :whistling:laughing:
Always start with the mkst complicated idea and work from there :whistling:laughing:
That was just too weird for me not to fix.
Andy.
Andy.
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Temp support?
You might be better off demoing the cantilevered roof and rebuild when you fix those ****ty porches.
That would scare the chit out of me if I had to work under that.
Andy.
You might be better off demoing the cantilevered roof and rebuild when you fix those ****ty porches.
That would scare the chit out of me if I had to work under that.
Andy.
Yup. Rip it all off and bid it all in prefabricated steel.
What if the roof is trussed? I wouldnt cut the trusses even if they are sitting on the exterior walls.
Is it unoccupied?
Hmm, could be, but from the picture it looks to be damn near a flat or very low slope stick framed roof.
If it was trussed and in that bad a shape I would call out a truss company to verify I could cut or add trusses to it after.
Andy.
If it was trussed and in that bad a shape I would call out a truss company to verify I could cut or add trusses to it after.
Andy.
Id frame temps under the chitty porches, remove one post at a time and replace with steel. Replace the girders in the same fashion. Bottom to top. If it looks suspect, frame a temp under it.
The roof does look pretty flat and the overhang doesn't look like much so if that is the case, it shouldn't be overly heavy.
If this is the case and it were me, I would use either 6x6 or lally columns and run them at basically a 45degree angle, attaching to the roof line in 2 different places and lagging them to the steel step structure in some way. Then id tear an entire side down, all 4 stories and rebuild it properly, using steel supports.
Finish one side, then start the other side.
If you look closely at the picture, you can see the roof line is actually starting to sag, as it isn't getting enough support in those 4 places. So first thing id do is build temporary supports on the stairwell and then id remove the wood beams, and install a lvl or steal beam that runs 1/2 the length of the building and center it then use again solid beams, be in lally columns or steel beams to hold the new beam up. This alone would help support the roof 100 times better while rebuilding everything else.
If this is the case and it were me, I would use either 6x6 or lally columns and run them at basically a 45degree angle, attaching to the roof line in 2 different places and lagging them to the steel step structure in some way. Then id tear an entire side down, all 4 stories and rebuild it properly, using steel supports.
Finish one side, then start the other side.
If you look closely at the picture, you can see the roof line is actually starting to sag, as it isn't getting enough support in those 4 places. So first thing id do is build temporary supports on the stairwell and then id remove the wood beams, and install a lvl or steal beam that runs 1/2 the length of the building and center it then use again solid beams, be in lally columns or steel beams to hold the new beam up. This alone would help support the roof 100 times better while rebuilding everything else.
It's not trussed. It's a low slope with rafters running parallel with the building, as is the joist supporting the decking. The double 2x6 beams are setting into the brick then resting on the 6x6 post. The intermediate joist span the 8' between the post. There is no ledger carrying the load, only the beams setting into the brick...and every one of them has pulled out 2-3".
I don't know how this structure made it through winter, it's on the verge of collapse and I honestly didn't like being up there. Rebuilding one level at a time is a risky situation due to the lack of integrity. All of the post are deflected and starting to kick out.
I don't do steel work.
The building is occupied.
I was considering taking the roof off but also thinking of temp post on the steel and running diagonal bracing from a ledger to the outer rafter on the roof and diagonal supports from the steel to each rafter.
Attached is a pick of the roof rafters. Sorry they're sideways, I forgot to rotate my phone when taking the pics.
I don't know how this structure made it through winter, it's on the verge of collapse and I honestly didn't like being up there. Rebuilding one level at a time is a risky situation due to the lack of integrity. All of the post are deflected and starting to kick out.
I don't do steel work.
The building is occupied.
I was considering taking the roof off but also thinking of temp post on the steel and running diagonal bracing from a ledger to the outer rafter on the roof and diagonal supports from the steel to each rafter.
Attached is a pick of the roof rafters. Sorry they're sideways, I forgot to rotate my phone when taking the pics.
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Where in pa are you? I'm in pa as well. feel free to pm me, if we are close enough, maybe I could help you out. The steel work wouldn't be to difficult. Just hire or sub a welder for this job.
I'm in Scranton.
Here you can see the deflection on the post. Both ends are equally as bad. Some of the inner post are bolted to the steel so they haven't moved.
The roof does sag as a result of 2x6 spanning 15+ feet. There is a beam at each end and one in the chimney.
Let's see if I got the pic right on this one.
Here you can see the deflection on the post. Both ends are equally as bad. Some of the inner post are bolted to the steel so they haven't moved.
The roof does sag as a result of 2x6 spanning 15+ feet. There is a beam at each end and one in the chimney.
Let's see if I got the pic right on this one.
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I would probably hire an engineer for something like that. I would even have temporary shoring designed.
From looking at the additional pics I could not see doing anything other than a complete demo, getting engineering and starting over.
What a ****ing mess.
Andy.
What a ****ing mess.
Andy.
Hard to put into words but two temporary posts In each corner with a temp beam across the two at an angle giving you room to tear out the old posts.
I'd be curious what else is wrong with that building, have they seriously considered tearing the whole building down before putting that kind of money into a repair?
I'd be curious what else is wrong with that building, have they seriously considered tearing the whole building down before putting that kind of money into a repair?
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