First you must find the source of the water infiltration, there are only three types of this. Either the water is rising up from under the structure (hydrostatic pressure), coming in through the wall itself or coming in through an architectural element (sill plate, siding, roofing, pipe penetration, etc).
To eliminate the first of hydrostatic pressure look at the rest of the basement. If there are not other areas of water infiltration at the same level (besides the one area) then you probably can rule that out.
Next I'd look at the sill area outside. Was the snow against the structure? Is landscape material or beds high against the building? Are there poorly caulked pipe chases or cable wires going into the structure? Rule out the easy stuff first. Take a garden hose and an hour of your time to start low and systematically eliminate these items one by one.
Block foundations are only trumped by stacked stone foundations by me. Hollow cavities allow water to enter in one area and cascade like that famous champaign glass scene until it finds a weak spot to exit. Depending on the construction the block may sit on the concrete slab instead of a footing letting the bottom-most block drain out onto the floor. If the wall itself leaks your best bet is an external repair using hydraulic cement and an elastomeric membrane meant for GREEN concrete. Better yet use a belt and suspenders system, I use a trowled membrane with a bentonite overlay on all retrofits with 100% success in the last 3 years since we began using it. HLM5000, TP60, and other products are good but fail in most retrofit applications because of the concretes moisture content.
Only other solution for the wall itself is water management by a French Drain type system... IF THERE IS A FOOTING! Install pipe along the footing, drill weep holes in the bottom course of block and run to a sump pump. I prefer fixing the problem to recycling water though...
