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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Tyveking then vinyl siding over t11. It's only the side of a building so there's no tyvek outside corner overlaps.
I'm keeping the existing 1"x5" verticle pine corner trim, pine bargeboard along roof shingles, and composite window trim. There's no soffit (easier for water to penetrate).

Tyvek's pdf says tape or seal all terminations. If I tape it, I would have to cut the tyvek 1/2" short and reply on the tape holding for 50 years or something which I don't trust on painted, rough t11. If I tape it like an inside drywall corner half on tyvek and half on the 1" of pine trim/composite, then when the tape eventually peels away, water can probably enter easier than if I just bring the tyvek tight to trim and do nothing more.

They tape Tyvek like an inside drywall corner here at 3:40, there's at least a soffit though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZeoR7cEEc0#t=211


The moderator of the siding forum here says silicone the joint.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/e...94-proper-vertical-termination-housewrap.html
But they're talking brick, not wood, so is the best option to use np1 polyurethane sealant which sticks to wood better than silicone? Polyurethane sealant is also recommended for pvc trim, and silicone might be incompatible.


So in other words, run the tyvek tight to the wood and composite terminations, caulk right behind the tyvek edge, press it down then caulk again to seal the tyvek to the wood/composite?

Also, the windows might not have been properly flashed when installed, but I think it might just be risked to leave them how they are instead of pulling everything out and checking since it's a garage wall with no electric or anything behing the windows, it's not really my choice. So although I know that half say to never caulk between J channel and a window, in this case, if it's decided to not pull out the windows and trim and redo the flashing, should I space the j channel 1/4" from the existing composite trim, backer rod then polyurethane sealant?


thanks.
 

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I'm going to take a stab and say a bead of caulking/liquid nails 2" in, press the tyvak into that and then tape it

Or

How about sliding a piece of flat aluminum under the corner trim and then on top of the tyvek and tape tyvek to aluminum.

Just guesses here
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
^why 2" back and not closer to the edge like1/2" then also seal both surfaces together after pressing down in the inside bead?

sliding aluminum under the trims for a tape backer is a good idea, or prying them off and sticking the tyvek under them.
thanks
 

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If you don't have the option of changing trim and flashing, then cut 1" back from the edge, then tape, setting the tape exactly into the corner, because it's easier to get the tape right into the corner. Small bead of caulk in the corner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
slight change of plans, I'm going to remove both outside corners' vertical trim anyway to redo the foundation flashing. So I'll wrap the tyvek to the other side of the corner (as in two pieces of 1x4 come together as a vertcial corner and the 'other side' wall has a soffit), then caulk and tape over tyvek terminations and reinstall trim.

If I don't remove the bargeboards also to caulk the tyvek termination under there, I'll run the tyvek up to them (or slip it under if possible) and caulk 1/2" from the edge of the tyvek because t11 is all grooved vertically so caulk to fill where tape can't.
thanks for the suggestions.
 
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