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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Is it LSCZ hanger and stair hanger board still the best solution? What was wrong with straight 3’ metal strips that I used and inspector said me that he (or they) do not allow it. I had to build 5 raisers 8 and 3/4 each. He said me that is maximum allowable 7 3/4. I know it but it is for NEW construction. I had a parameter of old concrete stairs that I had to relate to hence I went 5 raisers. They allow me in past to go with 8”+ rise if remodeling situation require it. I would in past just go with t + r = 17” - 18”. Now this nut say that must be enforced 7 3/4” max and 10” min no matter what is remodeling situation. I will post pictures tomorrow to explain situation better. Can I use 3/4 plywood like a hanger board still always? I think it is banned long time and now must be 2X and some type of hangers.
Please keep in mind that I build already around 50 stairs like self-employed and most was inspected by cities. So I’m not DIY.
 

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Around here, if you replace old concrete steps with new wood ones, the wood ones must meet current code - they aren't grandfathered. Some jurisdictions may require egress upgrades to current code for NFPA lifesafety 101 in a remodel.
 

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Code is code whether remodeling or new....:thumbsup:
 

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Usually everything involved has to be brought up to today's standards. Fire, egress, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Usually everything involved has to be brought up to today's standards. Fire, egress, etc.
But now instead of 8,75” riser I have only 2' clearance at concrete stairs. There is not cheap solution because of this nut. Really impossible explain without photo. I will do tomorrow or Thursday. Bad weather here in MN.
 

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tipitop said:
But now instead of 8,75” riser I have only 2' clearance at concrete stairs. There is not cheap solution because of this nut. Really impossible explain without photo. I will do tomorrow or Thursday. Bad weather here in MN.

Can you turn the steps using a landing to get your clearance another direction?
 

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Just about the only place I've seen the inspector or planner cut some slack is when the stairs are above or below another flight that is't being changed, and the new work would cause headroom or other more serious problems with the old. Otherwise, you just have to find another solution.
 

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Not sure what you mean when you say "had to relate to it", why couldn't you use six risers? Grandfathering can work in remodels but basically whatever you touch needs to be brought up to code. I've seen that before with the metal straps on a dropped stringer, I had to replace one of those that someone else did once. Inspectors want to see more than just hardware supporting the stringer. I normally design it with a beam right under the joist so the stringer has something solid to attach to.
 

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I don't get one thing, if you a carpenter, why you building your stairs to match existing stair rise.

Divide the total landing rise by 7 and you will have exact number of stairs with the code compliant rise... You might end up with an extra tread, so be it, you have to treat this as new installation.
 

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I run into stair issues on old houses aroiund here all the time.

If you replace existing stairs with new, the new ones are not grandfathered - they have to meet current code unless that creates a bigger safety problem and codes enforcement (and if it's a required egress around here, the Fire Chief) signs off on that.

If you do not plan on doing anything to stairs, they may or may not be grandfathered (usually they are around here).
 

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I run into stair issues on old houses aroiund here all the time.

If you replace existing stairs with new, the new ones are not grandfathered - they have to meet current code unless that creates a bigger safety problem and codes enforcement (and if it's a required egress around here, the Fire Chief) signs off on that.

If you do not plan on doing anything to stairs, they may or may not be grandfathered (usually they are around here).
Same around here, if you making a repair then you OK... if you replacing stairs they have to be code compliant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for answers guys. I have to postpone photos as entire day is snowing here in MN. Tomorrow will be MN nice weather ( 10 F high and wind chill -20F) and will go work and do some picks.
 

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I'm confused about the hanging stair stringers with 3/4" plywood acting as your top riser being an issue?

That's how I have done it for years in new construction and did a set just last week like that in a new residential construction home.

How else would you do it?
 

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Boda said:
I'm confused about the hanging stair stringers with 3/4" plywood acting as your top riser being an issue? That's how I have done it for years in new construction and did a set just last week like that in a new residential construction home. How else would you do it?
Same here.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
This is situation. I had to go 8 and 1/2 rise because I didn't have enough landing because of that concrete stairs at bottom. I did hanged stringers with metal strips but it do not work per inspector. I will call inspector if I'm allowed to use 3/4 plywood green like hanger and will do one more rise. Only customer will have to call concrete guy as you can se at picture. Do not like to hang board below 2X10 to hang stairs. Look non elegant.
It seam that in photo I turn stringer wrong way. Rise was 8 and 1/12 and tread was 9. Tried to keep it inside R + T = 17-18.
Second photo is just to show trim that I do inside.
 

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Metal strips and plywood... Why the don't allow duct tape anymore?
 

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Any reason you can't cut the porch back enough to get the extra run? If you can then I'd take it back far enough the the stringer can go all the way up to the porch height and then you can get a full stair hanger on a doubled joist. It's a better connection than a hanger board when you can do it.
 
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