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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to paint my house exterior all one color. Plan on using an airless sprayer. House has vinyl siding, casement windows and some sliders. I know not everyone is a fan of painting vinyl siding but I've read many success stories and will be probably using SW Super Paint (vinyl safe color) . I've heard I should prime the gutters 1st before top coating.

My main question is how to approach the windows and sliders. Should I just mask out the glass, spray everything and crack the windows to dry? Or remove the windows entirely, mask out a line on the interior jambs/sill/header then spray. Then set up to spray the windows on the ground?

How to handle the slider doors?

Lastly, as a concern for future expansion/contraction @ siding joints, has anyone ever snapped open (see pic) the joint, then spray painted, then snapped closed when dry? It seems that it might be a good way to get paint in there albeit lots of seems.

Thanks for you help!
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If you spray the windows, it will look like crap in less than a month.

I have had factory painted vinyl windows that weren't even off the truck and they scratched. Just installing them and they scratch. The sliders won't hold up no matter what you do. Either will the ineriors.

Why remove the windows? If all casement, maybe. But they will scratch and flake as soon as you operate them.

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I wouldn't paint the windows and sliders either and I don't know of any SW product I would use but it certainly wouldn't be superpaint on anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you spray the windows, it will look like crap in less than a month.

I have had factory painted vinyl windows that weren't even off the truck and they scratched. Just installing them and they scratch. The sliders won't hold up no matter what you do. Either will the ineriors.

Why remove the windows? If all casement, maybe. But they will scratch and flake as soon as you operate them.

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Thanks, I am leaning that way. i.e. not to paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Has anyone here painted vinyl siding? What about my method of snapping open the joints before spraying?
 

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Has anyone here painted vinyl siding? What about my method of snapping open the joints before spraying?
As mentioned, not recommended to paint the windows. They'll clean up well anyways. No, I've never snapped open joints before painting vinyl. Your primary concern should be the oxidation on that vinyl. Pressure washing alone won't remove it. I'll typically either downstream oxalic acid or better yet, Cleansol BC during the washing. If you're unable to do that, you may have to resort to brushes on a pole. Add EmulsaBond to your 1st coat of paint as well. Absolutely unnecessary to prime gutters so long as you're using a quality acrylic topcoat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As mentioned, not recommended to paint the windows. They'll clean up well anyways. No, I've never snapped open joints before painting vinyl. Your primary concern should be the oxidation on that vinyl. Pressure washing alone won't remove it. I'll typically either downstream oxalic acid or better yet, Cleansol BC during the washing. If you're unable to do that, you may have to resort to brushes on a pole. Add EmulsaBond to your 1st coat of paint as well. Absolutely unnecessary to prime gutters so long as you're using a quality acrylic topcoat.
Thanks. I have pressure washed the whole house. Was there a particular picture of mine that you see oxidation? Re downstream Oxalic acid. Can this be applied with a pump sprayer? Does it need to be rinsed off afterwards or just leave it to dry? Thanks
 

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It will be oxidation and also chalking.

Pressurewashing will make it look good, but not get rid of the chalking. Rub your hands on it both wet and dry and you will most likely get chalk/dust on your hands.

Not sure I'd use Superpaint either. That is my main go to for paint, reliable and juat works.

However, I might be worried about expansion and contraction. A more flexible paint might be better.

Ask your supplier what they recommend.

Either way, there is a good chance you are going to have issues eventually, and there is no way to make it look good again. Can't sand it, can't scrape it, etc. You will be stuck with flaking chipping paint eventually.

That being said, I've hung miles and miles of vinyl. Never painted it, so the paint guys may have had better luck.

All I know is I would never recommend it due to the movement vinyl does as it heats and cools.



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You'll want a matching or lighter color, darker and it may warp and peel due to expansion and contraction. A latex urethane paint that states specifically can be used on vinyl siding.

I replace almost everything over repair, I've only been asked to paint vinyl siding once, Guy bought a house supposedly for some reason the previous owner painted the white siding blue between the offer and possession of the house. Told the new owner the damage has already been done and repainting it white isn't a guarantee it won't peel. He begged for a bid then called me 6 times begging to brush it for the same price as spraying.
 

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I have painted quite a bit of vinyl siding, including my own home. Here are some thoughts:
Do not paint the windows, just mask off.
Power wash and be sure to remove any chalk residue, as already suggested.
I would us SW Duration or Resilience, satin. Add Emulsa bond to first coat only to help with adhesion.

Joints, if you open the joint and paint there is a good chance the vinyl siding will stick together causing other issues when it wants to expand and contract. I would wait until weather is generally cooler so siding has contracted and then paint. In the coldest weather one or two joints may show and I touch them up later, noting where they are. I go back and check customer homes to make sure this has not happened.
You could open the lap joint and spray in the opening to prevent the contraction issue, but I would at least insert a wooden wedge etc to hold joint open while the paint dries.
Corners and J channel are the biggest paint to make sure the old color does not show. I have only found it to be an issue on the sunniest / hottest side of a house.
Aluminum gutters get two coats of latex paint, no need for a specific primer.
 

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You'll want a matching or lighter color, darker and it may warp and peel due to expansion and contraction. A latex urethane paint that states specifically can be used on vinyl siding.

I replace almost everything over repair, I've only been asked to paint vinyl siding once, Guy bought a house supposedly for some reason the previous owner painted the white siding blue between the offer and possession of the house. Told the new owner the damage has already been done and repainting it white isn't a guarantee it won't peel. He begged for a bid then called me 6 times begging to brush it for the same price as spraying.
He should have stuck the guy with the house and found something else. Why would somebody spend the money to paint something that was already sold? I bought it white with no paint on it. you want me to not back out? Reside the house with white. Or better yet - put that money in escrow and I will have the house resided because sellerdude is not to be trusted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It will be oxidation and also chalking.

Pressurewashing will make it look good, but not get rid of the chalking. Rub your hands on it both wet and dry and you will most likely get chalk/dust on your hands.

Not sure I'd use Superpaint either. That is my main go to for paint, reliable and juat works.

However, I might be worried about expansion and contraction. A more flexible paint might be better.

Ask your supplier what they recommend.

Either way, there is a good chance you are going to have issues eventually, and there is no way to make it look good again. Can't sand it, can't scrape it, etc. You will be stuck with flaking chipping paint eventually.

That being said, I've hung miles and miles of vinyl. Never painted it, so the paint guys may have had better luck.

All I know is I would never recommend it due to the movement vinyl does as it heats and cools.



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I've read several posts of SuperPaint success on vinyl. But also SW Duration and Resilence. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You'll want a matching or lighter color, darker and it may warp and peel due to expansion and contraction. A latex urethane paint that states specifically can be used on vinyl siding.

I replace almost everything over repair, I've only been asked to paint vinyl siding once, Guy bought a house supposedly for some reason the previous owner painted the white siding blue between the offer and possession of the house. Told the new owner the damage has already been done and repainting it white isn't a guarantee it won't peel. He begged for a bid then called me 6 times begging to brush it for the same price as spraying.
I've read 100% Acrylic paint has had good results on vinyl. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have painted quite a bit of vinyl siding, including my own home. Here are some thoughts:
Do not paint the windows, just mask off.
Power wash and be sure to remove any chalk residue, as already suggested.
I would us SW Duration or Resilience, satin. Add Emulsa bond to first coat only to help with adhesion.

Joints, if you open the joint and paint there is a good chance the vinyl siding will stick together causing other issues when it wants to expand and contract. I would wait until weather is generally cooler so siding has contracted and then paint. In the coldest weather one or two joints may show and I touch them up later, noting where they are. I go back and check customer homes to make sure this has not happened.
You could open the lap joint and spray in the opening to prevent the contraction issue, but I would at least insert a wooden wedge etc to hold joint open while the paint dries.
Corners and J channel are the biggest paint to make sure the old color does not show. I have only found it to be an issue on the sunniest / hottest side of a house.
Aluminum gutters get two coats of latex paint, no need for a specific primer.
Yes I probably will switch my paint to one of those SW paints you mention. In the pic, the darker red areas on the left are where most of the red will rub off. Other areas not really much at all. Is this Oxidation? Otherwise the siding seems pretty clean. Is it good enough with the added Emulsa Bond? If not, what efficient and easy (I'm not going to hand brush the whole house siding) next step before painting should I consider? Someone mentioned Oxalic Acid... Anything simple like apply something with a pump sprayer and leave or rinse off with a regular hose?

Lastly, I'm in CT, what would be the ideal temperatures to paint? Thanks!
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Yes I probably will switch my paint to one of those SW paints you mention. In the pic, the darker red areas on the left are where most of the red will rub off. Other areas not really much at all. Is this Oxidation? Otherwise the siding seems pretty clean. Is it good enough with the added Emulsa Bond? If not, what efficient and easy (I'm not going to hand brush the whole house siding) next step before painting should I consider? Someone mentioned Oxalic Acid... Anything simple like apply something with a pump sprayer and leave or rinse off with a regular hose?

Lastly, I'm in CT, what would be the ideal temperatures to paint? Thanks! View attachment 516611 View attachment 516612
That chalkiness is the oxidation I was referring to. Although EmulsaBond does help the paint adhere to chalky surfaces, it isn't magic, so removing as much of the oxidation before painting is key. Cleansol BC can be applied via pump sprayer, allowed to dwell for 10-15 minutes, (making sure to keep everything wet), and rinsed off. Brushes wouldn't be necessary. You'd also want to wet down everything first before applying it. Ideal temps for paint application would be anything from 65°F to 80°F with moderate humidity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That chalkiness is the oxidation I was referring to. Although EmulsaBond does help the paint adhere to chalky surfaces, it isn't magic, so removing as much of the oxidation before painting is key. Cleansol BC can be applied via pump sprayer, allowed to dwell for 10-15 minutes, (making sure to keep everything wet), and rinsed off. Brushes wouldn't be necessary. You'd also want to wet down everything first before applying it. Ideal temps for paint application would be anything from 65°F to 80°F with moderate humidity.
I searched for Cleansol BC but not available through big box/Amazon. I did buy Krud Kutter by Rustoleum based on good reviews. I sprayed most (I got lazy towards the end and just power washed only) of my house with this using a pump sprayer. Now that I read the label it says it removes oxidation. So what about I spray the house again with this product (which states also wet before and don't let dry. Let 3-5 min stand and rinse) and rinse off with a hose? Thanks
 

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I searched for Cleansol BC but not available through big box/Amazon. I did buy Krud Kutter by Rustoleum based on good reviews. I sprayed most (I got lazy towards the end and just power washed only) of my house with this using a pump sprayer. Now that I read the label it says it removes oxidation. So what about I spray the house again with this product (which states also wet before and don't let dry. Let 3-5 min stand and rinse) and rinse off with a hose? Thanks
Better off using LA's Awesome from Dollar Store. It'll remove oxidation to a degree. Do your own testing on dilution rates and dwell times to see what works. Probably 1:1 ratio though. Wet everything first, don't allow to dry, rinse thoroughly.
 

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In my opinion a thorough power washing to remove the chalky finish will suffice especially with using Emulsa Bond. I do not disagree with using additional cleaners but there is a lot to be said about the power and capacity of the various power washers, a low powered washer (GPM) will benefit from the use of additional cleaners.

As for painting temperatures, you do not want to be painting over dew in the mornings and you do not want wet paint when the sun goes down, it will stay wet all night. Once it is down to 34F at night you are about done. Here is how I decide when to stop outside painting, if we have to wait until mid morning to start and then have to quit by 3pm so the paint will dry before sundown then we are done painting outside. The day just becomes too inefficient other than a small door here and there etc.

There are low temp paints, but generally they are not my go to products.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
In my opinion a thorough power washing to remove the chalky finish will suffice especially with using Emulsa Bond. I do not disagree with using additional cleaners but there is a lot to be said about the power and capacity of the various power washers, a low powered washer (GPM) will benefit from the use of additional cleaners.

As for painting temperatures, you do not want to be painting over dew in the mornings and you do not want wet paint when the sun goes down, it will stay wet all night. Once it is down to 34F at night you are about done. Here is how I decide when to stop outside painting, if we have to wait until mid morning to start and then have to quit by 3pm so the paint will dry before sundown then we are done painting outside. The day just becomes too inefficient other than a small door here and there etc.

There are low temp paints, but generally they are not my go to products.
Great thanks
 
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