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How to get toilet level on ungauged slate?

16K views 25 replies 14 participants last post by  RefleX 
#1 ·
I'm working on my brothers condo bathroom floor (cement slab) and we've used the same ungauged slate in there that we used in the kitchen/entry to maintain a good flow.

Now that it's time to get the toilet on, we are noticing it's an issue. I chose the best pieces to go together around the flange that seemed to be as level as ungauged slate gets. Noticing it's out a few mm makes me think the toilet won't sit level. What are some tips on ensuring the toilet is installed properly now, and for future installs?

Any insight is most welcome. Thanks in advance.
 
#3 ·
I'm working on my brothers condo bathroom floor (cement slab) and we've used the same ungauged slate in there that we used in the kitchen/entry to maintain a good flow.

Now that it's time to get the toilet on, we are noticing it's an issue. I chose the best pieces to go together around the flange that seemed to be as level as ungauged slate gets. Noticing it's out a few mm makes me think the toilet won't sit level. What are some tips on ensuring the toilet is installed properly now, and for future installs?

Any insight is most welcome. Thanks in advance.
You can knock the really high spots off with a grinder (taking care not to go beyond the footprint of the toilet), but minor variations as you describe are typical for that material, and will require toilet shims as Precision mentioned.
 
#4 ·
shim the commode to make it steady, but only if it needs it to be steady with no weight on it.

Pack grout around the base of the commode against the floor. Pack it in real tight. Use sanded grout. Let it set up a few days before applying weight to the commode.

If you used shims, remove the shims and pack those spots with grout.

If you trim your grout neatly it will look fine.

If their is no wobble and the commode is fairly tight just caulk it with silicone caulk. Fill as deep as you can.

If you want to get fancy, you can mix the grout with silicone to get the right color apply it, then dust the surface with grout before the silicone dries.
 
#5 ·
Agreed Thom. Grouting is a great method even if you have a flat and level floor to set the toilet on because the toilet's base isn't going to be perfect.

I'm not sold on caulking the toilet to the floor due to possible leaks being hidden and found on the ceiling below rather than running out under the toilet. But, I guess it depends on the leak too. Or, at least caulk around the front and sides and leave the back open and hopefully if there is a problem, it'll flow out there.
 
#10 ·
I disagree with grouting or caulking toilet bases. What happens if the seal leaks.....could take quite a while to notice, and when you finally do :sick::surrender:

I'd rather know about any kind of leak immediately, much less black water.
 
#15 ·
This has been working for at least 100 yrs.

Use sheet lead @ two points in the back and one in the front. Cut the lead with tinsnips about 1/2" wide and a smack with a hammer can make fine adjustments. Set them back about 1/8", more if the floor is really uneven.

When level, pack the gap with grout. Leave about 1-2" gap in the back. When the grout has set, use a putty knife to push a small piece of screen into the gap to keep little critters out.
 
#19 ·
As an interesting aside here, it seems some of you leave the base of the commode as is when installing. We are required to grout or caulk commodes to the floor here. The inspectors check every one.
 
#20 ·
No not some Thom, just me. I used to install down in FL, Teetor.... in exactly your neck of the woods. For several years. Never saw a single toilet done that way. They were all grouted solid to the slab. You guys have your way and I've got mine....been serving me just fine for 15 years. In that span I have never encountered a situation where grouting was necessary. But then again I do floor prep. I am the floor guy, so if the floor is really uneven my job was done wrong. If you set a toilet on the crown of a hill, I suppose you could run into those problems. SLC is a wonderful thing.

Not saying you guys are wrong, mind you, It's just not my way of doing it.

I'm sure somebody will run along and tell me how wrong I am though.
 
#21 ·
I'm sure somebody will run along and tell me how wrong I am though.
Let me count the ways...:whistling

Nah, I do them just like you too. Maybe the occasional shim but nothing else. To me, when I see that a toilet's been caulked or any other material stuffed in there, I think the floor guy didn't know what he was doing or a plumber just did whatever he needed to in order to keep the toilet from rocking.
 
#22 ·
Got the shims from a plumbing place, didn't know they exist and at $0.25 each, it's an easy remedy.

It's against code here (western Canada) to put the toilet on the slab and tile up to it, plus that looks so so so cheap to me.

I was also advised against caulking around the base of a toilet by a plumber I worked onsite with, based on all the leaking reasons mentioned. I hesitate to do the grouting method as well, especially in an older condo where there are leaks and backups often caused by others. I will check the code on that here today, just for my own knowledge.

Knucklehead, this is how you spell 'serious'.

Thanks to everyone else.
 
#23 ·
It's against code here (western Canada) to put the toilet on the slab and tile up to it, plus that looks so so so cheap to me.
Cheap? :furious:

Damn, that's custom work! :laughing:
 
#25 ·
Setting your toilet on uneven ground

If your tile is a little uneven around the toilet I'm guessing there is a good chance your toilet (WC) flange is recessed below the finished floor height.

Is this right? If so you need a WC flange extender to bring the flange up to or sitting on finished grade.

One or two wax seals will be need to set the toilet. The toilet once set in the wax should not leak with 10 back to back flushes - this before you even put a nut on the screw.

We shim when needed - everyone needs to shim a toilet on occasion even if the floor is perfectly flat. Toilets are baked and I have seen many right out of the box rock like crazy on level ground. If you are buying your toilet from a box store uncrated it right there on the spot and check to see if it rocks or not. Find one that doesn't.

Grout the toilet and use a plastic taping knife to remove the grout as clean as possible even with the toilet base. Don't apply it like a huge dab of caulking.
 
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