[06 F150]

That's what she said...

 

[Crock]

lay it flat and beat it like it owes you money.

 

[Leo G]

Lock it together and slide it under as one pc.

 

[Crock]

Lock it together and slide it under as one pc.

that gets the 8" side together but thats only 1/2 the problem solved

cant in hallway because of the large width of these planks. when its under the jamb you cant lift it to the 45 degree to do the proper install.

 

[Leo G]

Assemble the floor to the with of the hallway and slide it under the jamb. Or if it doesn't work scribe one side so it's perfect and snap and lock.

It's a floor, not rocket science.

 

[06 F150]

That's what she said...

 

[Crock]

cant picture your scenario with my pea size brain, but i have done many "t" hallways and yes you have to work backwards when you go around cased openings.

post a pick or drawing.

edit; most of the stuff now has on side that doesn't need to angle to connect. if thats the case then you can run a joint at your problem area.

 

[willworkforbeer]

Ok, first of all I am installing this in my own home, so flame me:clap:

 

[Crock]

Woops see next post

fast fowrd to the 8 minute mark

 

[Crock]

 

[Darwin]

Ok, first of all I am installing this in my own home, so no flaming:clap:


I have Khars T&G free floating that is 7 7/8 wide. To have it lock together it needs to be at a 45' angle and then pushed in to the other piece and then flat to the floor.


So my question is how do you get it under door jambs if it needs to be at a 45 degree angle first???

Simple. To get under the door jambs, the 'locking' part is cut away (only near the jambs). then you set the pieces with glue on the butt of each edge. Nail in place if desired. Hide nailhead with putty and sand flush.

 

[Teetorbilt]

I haven't seen the laminate that won't lock up on the flat with the proper 'convincing' (a framing hammer and pine block). For a hallway on the diag. its all done this way as the end with the acute angle won't clear the wall. On the short side (obtuse angle) use a block against the flooring, another against the wall or base and a WonderBar to force it into position.

You also use the bar to close the gaps that will occur at the joints.

Why diag.? Here it dates your home to 1985-mid 90's like diag. wall panelling to the '60's or Harvest Gold/Seafoam Green fixtures in the '50's. The last diag. floor that I did was Nov. of '01.

 

[06 F150]

That's what she said...

 

[06 F150]

I guess I had that coming

 

[TopFloor]

Nice find. so much easier than trying to describe it with words alone.
Anyone else use the wood wedges for spacers, as suggested in the 'things you will need' segment? I swear by 'em.

 

[Home Work Pro]

Simple. To get under the door jambs, the 'locking' part is cut away (only near the jambs). then you set the pieces with glue on the butt of each edge. Nail in place if desired. Hide nailhead with putty and sand flush.

Darwin,
He's talking about a floating floor. Never nail that.:w00t:

 

[Floordude]

I haven't seen the laminate that won't lock up on the flat with the proper 'convincing' (a framing hammer and pine block).

The core and locks will crack and be damaged by forcing it in like that.:shutup:

It is common knowledge for those that install a lot of rotating lock design, that in order to flat lay it, the lip on the planks mating, gets shaved off, and the planks then T&G glued, and tapped into place.:thumbup:

 

[PrecisionFloors]

The core and locks will crack and be damaged by forcing it in like that.:shutup:

It is common knowledge for those that install a lot of rotating lock design, that in order to flat lay it, the lip on the planks mating, gets shaved off, and the planks then T&G glued, and tapped into place.:thumbup:

Yep, what he said. I keep a wide, very sharp chisel for just such a job. Titebond II works well on plywood cores and I use up all of my leftover Wilsnart Blue Fusion on the laminate stuff.

Another simple tip is to plan your plank layout to give you the easiest installation around door jambs and still maintaining at least ~ an 8" joint stagger. It is a common rookie mistake to not pay attention to how the rows are running out and leave yourself with a very aggravating piece to notch around a jamb and install. End joints placed in a thought out manner can make any install a helluva lot faster and easier. You can then use your tapping block to move a plank down to connect up with a previously installed piece instead of having to notch out in the middle.

 

[Mike Costello]

Very well put. Its all about planning the row so you are not trying to get a full plank under 2 casings.

I have used my little mini plane to skive off the locking mechanism but mostly use the utility blade in my pouch.

I still have some of that Wilsonart glue too. It even froze on me 2 winters ago and still seemsto be fine.

 

[floorme]

sometimes you will have to slide one plank under the installed plank and then take it under the jam then fit it into to already cut off locking t&g before its glued in place. just make sure its right because getting it back out is a b****.