Johnny! I am beginning to wonder about your training. What do you mean by newly trained electrical contractor? Do you have your license? are you getting started? How much residental training or experance do you have? Where did you come up with the 1800 watts for each circuit. Do you know how to read the code book? Answer some of these questions for me then I can help you more.
How many outlets should I put on one circuit???
Hi, I'm a newly trained electrical contractor in Sacramento, CA.
I have lots of questions so here's one:
How many outlet's should I put on one circuit?
I know there's an 1800 watts (120V X 15A) capacity on each circuit but should I calculate the appliances that's going to be used on those circuits up to ALL 1800 watts??
I have lots of questions so here's one:
How many outlet's should I put on one circuit?
I know there's an 1800 watts (120V X 15A) capacity on each circuit but should I calculate the appliances that's going to be used on those circuits up to ALL 1800 watts??
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
YOU'RE an electrical contractor and you're asking US? These are DIY questions.
there are different exceptions to the rules in 220 of the code you probaly should take the time to read it. some of it a can be a little confusing.
You guys didn't read the question correctly..
I meant the line from the breaker to the circuits wired in parellel.
Now why would I think 1800 watts per circuit is acceptable??marxlaws said:there are different exceptions to the rules in 220 of the code you probaly should take the time to read it. some of it a can be a little confusing.
I meant the line from the breaker to the circuits wired in parellel.
Where did the 1800 watts come from?
i assume you were considering 220.3 (9) recptical outlets .except as covered 230.(b)(10) blah blah blah shall be computed as 180 va form each single or each multible per yoke it goes on you should read it then read 220.3(10) 1.2.3. and then (11) and then single phase va= e x i that is commercial, in res there is no limit on recpt. and we are suppost to put the general purpose receptacles in with the “3 VA per sq. ft. lighting load 240ish its been a while sorry i had to look up some of this stuff, The calculation should be volt x amps /180 for example if the branch circuit is 120 V and the breaker is 15 amps then 120 x 15 / 180 =10 The maximum number of receptacles in this case is - :Thumbs: 10
man i have forgoten so much stuff since school. i feel' n stupid up in here. 
i have let my code books get dusty, it seems it might be time for a refresher course. there was a day before i took the test i could rattle this stuff off like nothing.
i have let my code books get dusty, it seems it might be time for a refresher course. there was a day before i took the test i could rattle this stuff off like nothing.Marxlaws - it's that way with everything, especially as we get older. The more I learn the more I forget. I have what I call my "contractors bible" it is my cheat sheets for all kinds of stuff, anything I need to reference I add to it. A sample from my electrical sheet -
Outlets—outlet every 12 feet around the perimeter of each room (except bathroom). Codes require that a 6 foot cord running along a wall will be able to reach an outlet from any point on that wall. Outlet required on any wall longer than 2 ft and any hallway longer than 10 ft. No rule as to how high the outlet must be off the floor, but any outlet higher than 46 doesn’t count for the 12ft rule.
Bathroom—Codes require only one outlet in a bathroom., but it must be a GFCI within 3 feet of the sink on a separate 12/2 wire home run to panel. Lights and fan can tie into another circuit.
Circuit load—in general 10 devices on a 14 gauge circuit, 12 devices on a 12 gauge circuit.
Wire staples—within 8 inches of plastic boxes and every 4 ft along a run, unless the wire is running through studs. If wire comes within 1 1/4 in of the edge of a stud it must have a metal plate to protect it.
Smoke detectors—one in every bedroom, one at the bottom of stairs.
Inspections: rough - grounds connected in all boxes, can lights installed and lit up. Final - all connections, covers on. Call building dept @8:00am day of inspection for inspection 2 hour time window.
I have to do this for everything.
Outlets—outlet every 12 feet around the perimeter of each room (except bathroom). Codes require that a 6 foot cord running along a wall will be able to reach an outlet from any point on that wall. Outlet required on any wall longer than 2 ft and any hallway longer than 10 ft. No rule as to how high the outlet must be off the floor, but any outlet higher than 46 doesn’t count for the 12ft rule.
Bathroom—Codes require only one outlet in a bathroom., but it must be a GFCI within 3 feet of the sink on a separate 12/2 wire home run to panel. Lights and fan can tie into another circuit.
Circuit load—in general 10 devices on a 14 gauge circuit, 12 devices on a 12 gauge circuit.
Wire staples—within 8 inches of plastic boxes and every 4 ft along a run, unless the wire is running through studs. If wire comes within 1 1/4 in of the edge of a stud it must have a metal plate to protect it.
Smoke detectors—one in every bedroom, one at the bottom of stairs.
Inspections: rough - grounds connected in all boxes, can lights installed and lit up. Final - all connections, covers on. Call building dept @8:00am day of inspection for inspection 2 hour time window.
I have to do this for everything.
Is this you Pond?Johnny916 said:Now why would I think 1800 watts per circuit is acceptable??
I meant the line from the breaker to the circuits wired in parellel.
MIke, there can be other outlets in the bathroom, but one must be located within 3 feet of the sink and all outlets must be gfci protected
Don't sweat it Mark, most days I say "moma who?"marxlaws said:man i have forgoten so much stuff since school. i feel' n stupid up in here.
Bob
Mark, Thanks to you I had to dig mine out.
Thanks, Jbfan, I think that is supposed to read "at least one outlet" would that make more sense?
Mike,Mike Finley said:Marxlaws - it's that way with everything, especially as we get older. The more I learn the more I forget. I have what I call my "contractors bible"
Got any more cheat sheets you would like to share?
Paul, most of the stuff has tons of pictures so I can't cut and paste it here, but here is some stuff for framing. I actually now have a spread sheet I made that if I enter the wall height and the footprint lengths of the walls iit will spit out a cut list of studs, plates, tapcons, nails, insulation, drywall ect... It even calculates using different length plates and such and the cost or savings involved.
Base plates—measure foot print of all walls to be framed multiply by 2 for normal walls and 3 for floating walls. Bottom plate must be ACQ.
Studs— 1 for every linear foot of base plates + 15%.
Fasteners— - concrete fasteners 1 per every 2 linear feet of wall.
- 10 lbs 12d nails for every 100 linear feet of wall.
- 5 lbs 8d nails for every 100 linear feet of wall.
Sofits—5ft of 2x4 for every 2 linear feet of sofit.
1 1 4x8 sheet of 7/16 OSB for every 32 linear feet of sofit.
Doors— stand in the door frame with your back to the hinges, the door swinging in the direction of your right hand is a right handed door, swinging towards your left hand is a left swinging door.
and here is something I use for concrete flat work
Prep
Build forms, level, re-enforce sides with stakes so boards don’t move with weight of concrete.
Rebar or wire mesh– secure in place metal edging spikes, get rebar or mesh in middle of slab not resting on bottom.
Release agent—oil wood for easy release.
Pour
Screed concrete to level with forms
Float with magnesium bull float
Let sit till water stops coming to surface and water on surface evaporates.
Contraction joints—multiply thickness x 2.5 (4 inches thick x 2.5 = 10ft max distance between joists)
Work surface with magnesium trowel (if water raises to surface, wait)
Work surface with steel trowel
Wet concrete and cover with plastic, keep wet for 3-7 days.
Wood for forms
Wood for screed
Stakes to stabilize form
Plastic to cover and keep wet
Rebar or mesh
Hold down (lawn edge spikes)
Wire for rebar
Oil for form release
Magnesium bull float
Magnesium trowel
Steel trowel
Edger
I've been putting together equipment lists for types of jobs so I can make sure I have everything I need to complete certain work. That has been a big help. I store them on my computer and just print them out, they are in check list format so I can check off the equipment as it goes into the truck.
Base plates—measure foot print of all walls to be framed multiply by 2 for normal walls and 3 for floating walls. Bottom plate must be ACQ.
Studs— 1 for every linear foot of base plates + 15%.
Fasteners— - concrete fasteners 1 per every 2 linear feet of wall.
- 10 lbs 12d nails for every 100 linear feet of wall.
- 5 lbs 8d nails for every 100 linear feet of wall.
Sofits—5ft of 2x4 for every 2 linear feet of sofit.
1 1 4x8 sheet of 7/16 OSB for every 32 linear feet of sofit.
Doors— stand in the door frame with your back to the hinges, the door swinging in the direction of your right hand is a right handed door, swinging towards your left hand is a left swinging door.
and here is something I use for concrete flat work
Prep
Build forms, level, re-enforce sides with stakes so boards don’t move with weight of concrete.
Rebar or wire mesh– secure in place metal edging spikes, get rebar or mesh in middle of slab not resting on bottom.
Release agent—oil wood for easy release.
Pour
Screed concrete to level with forms
Float with magnesium bull float
Let sit till water stops coming to surface and water on surface evaporates.
Contraction joints—multiply thickness x 2.5 (4 inches thick x 2.5 = 10ft max distance between joists)
Work surface with magnesium trowel (if water raises to surface, wait)
Work surface with steel trowel
Wet concrete and cover with plastic, keep wet for 3-7 days.
Wood for forms
Wood for screed
Stakes to stabilize form
Plastic to cover and keep wet
Rebar or mesh
Hold down (lawn edge spikes)
Wire for rebar
Oil for form release
Magnesium bull float
Magnesium trowel
Steel trowel
Edger
I've been putting together equipment lists for types of jobs so I can make sure I have everything I need to complete certain work. That has been a big help. I store them on my computer and just print them out, they are in check list format so I can check off the equipment as it goes into the truck.
Do you think we scared Johnny off??????
I hate to sound like an ass, since we have a few too many here all of a sudden, but he might have electicuted himself already.
LOL Mike, might hve been the advice.:cheesygriMike Finley said:I hate to sound like an ass, since we have a few too many here all of a sudden, but he might have electicuted himself already.
Bob
do you have any idea how many people i have seen in my office just like that guy? it makes me a little crazy. i have hired people that said they ran jobs in ny and applied as foreman and i call the refs and they aint heard of him or worse they tell me he worked there and and thats all, and i hire him and he cant install the disco. because hes never done it. or worse, he tries and its installed incorrectly and i have had guys asking their helper how to wire a four way switch the blind leading the blind. material gets log-jammed week behind schedual because he didnt know he was behind and dosent have the sense or is afraid to call me. oh man i have seen some real winners. people that cant handle the dynamics of the sub to contractor relationship oh they are ok on the install but keeping a schedual and knowing when to crack the whip.... ok im ranting sorry. i dont micro manage and i tend to let my foreman run there jobs and do their own take offs sometimes it bites me in the ass. i have run jobs for people that couldnt resist being on top of everything( always made me wonder what the hell they hired me for) and i dont do it to my guys.
i have no , no problem with people trying to make that leap from wire puller to lead guy to foreman and then to super or master - hell we all went that route in some way -- but i do have a problem with helpers thinking they can jumpstart their careers at the expense of home and buisness owners.
deeeeeeeeep breath ok. :Thumbs:
i have no , no problem with people trying to make that leap from wire puller to lead guy to foreman and then to super or master - hell we all went that route in some way -- but i do have a problem with helpers thinking they can jumpstart their careers at the expense of home and buisness owners.
deeeeeeeeep breath ok. :Thumbs:
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
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