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Accidental Painter
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok no more hijacked thread, lol. I took a trick from oconomowic & broke out the sharpies! He still draws better than me though :)


Equipment: graco 390, 211 tip, paint shield, 18" 1/2 nap roller of choice, 9" roller same nap, Each roller gets its own pole.

So step 1: always paint whites FIRST. It's the easiest color to cover. By that logic, ceilings first then trim. In my world all doors are semi gloss white to match trim so thats #2 in order of operations.



Text Drawing Pattern Number

If I am doing walls I don't shield. In fact, I make sure to overlap onto the walls because it makes the edges crisper later.

Once ceilings are done, trim & doors next. Everything stays installed. Now as a precautiinary measure, I have a 4 *15 pvc drop I use for trim/doors.

Start in the farthest room. Lay drop about an inch from trim. You want this gap for your shield.

Molding Plaster Wall Floor Ceiling
Spray short bursts, dont get too close to your shields edges. If you do = overspray on floor. Exercising restraint here will payoff greatly. It does take practice. The first couple tries i masked the floor until I wasnt getting any on the paper. We all need training wheels.

Once room is trimmed out I do the door. Open door, slide tarp underneath and spray away. The wall/tarp will catch your overspray. Needless to say, I always remove doorknobs. Hinges get a quick tape. (done during prep).

Close door place tarp, spray. Door done for now. I then move onto another room, doing all my rooms same way (except kitchen and bath).
Whites done, lets do some coloring!

I generally do the next lightest color. Using the shield, tarp I edge/cut away. In the case of a darker accent wall overspray onto it.

Text Drawing Design Logo Font

trim:

Property Floor Wall Room Plaster

Obviuosly, I inherited a crap caulk job. But if you do your own caulking you can get an even sharper line.

Now that you've edged all walls Spray the body. DO NOT SPRAY UP TO YOUR EDGE!!! You won't notice until much later that it leaves a halo (very light but even coat of overspray). Instead stop spraying about a foot or so from your edging:

Text Font Drawing Logo Pattern
Let your backroller take it to the edge.

Text Line Font Handwriting Drawing

If you dont have an accent wall, your done. If you do have an accent wall then simply do the same for it that you did elsewhere. Except run your shield and edge where the colors meet.

Kitchens/baths are a judgement call. I'll bring in the 6" roller in these room and conservatively spray. Then do detail work w/ the 6"roller. For the most part I'll spray roughly 80% of the surfaces in these rooms. You just cant spray behind an installed toilet, sorry :(
 

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Best post I have seen, not only on this forum, but on the entire Internet.

Is that a fine finish tip? Do you put Floetrol or water in the paint? Does the type of paint matter? You're just doing one coat? So many answers, yet so many more questions.

Beggars can't be choosers... but we want a VIDEO!
 

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Accidental Painter
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2,292 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I do rentals. So, for me yes one coat. I rarely do a color change. In the rental world Sherwin Williams & PPG dominate the market. So usually you get low to mid grade paint (promar 200 or 400).

I find the quality of paint is best discovered through viscosity. An easy way to tell is to cut a slot in a 5 gal stir strip 6 inches long. It should look like a stick with legs. Dip that in the paint, count to 5 (seconds) & see how much runs up the "crotch". Thick paint you wont see the crotch (so thin it) & thin paint you will see the whole crotch (extra coats). The right thickness will show "half crotch"

The tip i use is a regular 211 with a very fast "swing". The fast swing doesnt allow for buildup. So quick on trim/edges/cutting & much slower on walls.

I would love to use a 515 for walls but with my sprayer, I cant find a good enough setting that restricts the "fog". So when I have to care, i play it safe.
 

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Different strokes for different folks I guess.
I don't back roll...ever. Why? I have a sprayer! My approach is way different then yours.

If you're doing the ceiling too, the area underneath it will need covering. Also, the baseboards will probably be enameled. So why not tape off the baseboard next to the carpet with 2" tape, butt your drops up close next to the baseboard (after spraying the ceiling) and spray the walls? Any spray that gets on the baseboard won't matter as you'll be enameling it and it will already be taped off for that. An accent wall? Use a 3M Masker with 36" wide plastic roll to mask off the non accent walls at the corners and the ceiling too. No accent overspray will get on the non accented walls or ceiling.

Optional method before laying drops: After taping off all the baseboards next to the carpet, you can take a roll of 12" masking paper and tape it intermittently all along your baseboard taping. Now you can lay down drops and spray the walls and the baseboard without worrying about the spray force blowing the drops up and getting spray underneath your drops onto the carpet. You've got that 12" of paper as a buffer.
Then afterwards, enamel the baseboards, they're already taped off. I use this method sometimes, because drops can quickly be moved from room to room.

TIP. After enameling baseboards next to taped off carpet, pull the tape off carefully (so as not to raise dirt & dust) BEFORE it's dry.
 

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Accidental Painter
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice to hear other methods. I figure I got two people on site, so mite as well have em backroll.

Also, do you crosshatch to eliminate the stripe or it just comes w/practice?

For some reason, I still have those issues occasionaly. But when I ask, I get the mil thickness story.
 

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Nice to hear other methods. I figure I got two people on site, so mite as well have em backroll.

Also, do you crosshatch to eliminate the stripe or it just comes w/practice?

For some reason, I still have those issues occasionaly. But when I ask, I get the mil thickness story.
FWIW, spraying cars you can lay down a "mist coat", which is just allowed to tack up for a few minutes. Then you can apply a single coat much heavier without runs. I've done it on cars, so I figure I'll try it on an interior paint and see if if buys me anything.
 

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I do very little interior spray painting, especially with an airless. I break out the hvlp from time to time for some trim etc.
Out of curiosity, after painting the ceiling and overlapping the ceiling paint on to the walls do you use a shield against the ceiling when painting the walls? or do you cut in the ceiling with a brush and then spray the body of the wall?

I must admit that I am impressed that you keep the drops away from the baseboard and only depend on a shield to keep the paint off the carpets. Whenever I use a shield I have paint dripping off it in no time.
 

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Accidental Painter
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ohio, yes the shield needs cleaned frequently. It helps to have around 3 shields & have the backroll guy clean them. Most will suggest a quick wipe in the edge with a rag. I find that doing that only buys a couple more spray shots. So instead, I keep a 5 gal bucket half full of water to wash the shield.

My method works best with 2 people. Sprayman & backroller/helper. The sprayguy focuses purely on just spraying. The backroll guy is in charge of prep/shield cleaning/ & backrolling when we get to that stage.

So when we walk in, his priority is outlet cover removal so I can do trim. That's why we do ceilings first. While he is waiting to backroll, he tackles outlet covers. Then after ceiling is done, I am able to tackle trim while he fills nailholes/cleans shield. Then we team up for the body of the walls.
 

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Why not paint walls first, then tape around the top with 3M hand masker and a roll of 9' plastic. Pull the plastic down take the extra foot at the bottom, lay your drop over it, then spray the ceiling.
 

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Accidental Painter
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Too much volume. I'd spend a fortune on plastic. You figure an average unit has 12 rooms + a stairwell. Also, once you unfold that plastic it's a major pita to try to recycle. If the tape gets caught on a section, fuhgettaboutit!

I have tried to recycle plastic. Its just too big of a hassle. Tarp your floors once & be done. I dont trust canvas tarps anymore either (had blue paint seep through to white carpet) so its pvc for me.
 

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Particulate Filter
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Why not paint walls first, then tape around the top with 3M hand masker and a roll of 9'm plastic. Pull the plastic down take the extra foot at the bottom, lay your drop over it, then spray the ceiling.
Masking walls takes twice as long as just painting them. Thats why its shoot ceilings, shoot trim, brush and roll walls. And you spend less on masking.
 

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]Masking walls takes twice as long as just painting them. Thats why its shoot ceilings, shoot trim, brush and roll walls. And you spend less on masking.[/QUOTE]

I really disagree with this, with the hand masker and 9' plastic one strip around the top and pull the plastic down. All windows and doors are covered, and a foot to put under your drop to keep it tight. You can mask a pretty good size room in less than 20 minutes.
 

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Accidental Painter
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Do 15 houses like that. You'll stop. It's a great idea, but if you have volume you will change your mind.

I even tried using 4' around the base to speed up. Its fine for a square/rectangle room, but as soon as you get a room with a jut out closet your screwed.
 

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]Masking walls takes twice as long as just painting them. Thats why its shoot ceilings, shoot trim, brush and roll walls. And you spend less on masking.
I really disagree with this, with the hand masker and 9' plastic one strip around the top and pull the plastic down. All windows and doors are covered, and a foot to put under your drop to keep it tight. You can mask a pretty good size room in less than 20 minutes.[/QUOTE]

I can paint a good size room in twenty minutes and I dont have to spend thirty dollars on masking. Also you dont need blue tape to prevent peeling of your freshly painted walls and most importantly you dont have to wait for tacky freshly painted walls to cure sufficiently to accept tape.
 

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Particulate Filter
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Ummm, there was mention of DIFFERENT colored walls next to each other.
He replied as if the walls and ceilings were all the same color.
If the walls are differnt colors and you brush and roll there is no extra step. You just need to know how to operate a brush.
 
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