screen off and re coat?
How do you dull a newly finished floor
Just finished refinishing floor for customer. Used a clear satin poly that looks more glossy than satin what can I do to make it look more like satin or matt, or maybe even just a rubbed oil look?
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If you want something to look like a duck....
get a duck....:thumbsup:
otherwise you & others will not be happy with feathers on a rabbit....:laughing:
get a duck....:thumbsup:
otherwise you & others will not be happy with feathers on a rabbit....:laughing:
Now I'm not so embarrassed about my first thought: "Have a party, dude." :laughing:If you want something to look like a duck....
White pad and floor machine, or maybe a coarser pad. Definitely not a black pad
Yep because once you go black....hdavis said:White pad and floor machine, or maybe a coarser pad. Definitely not a black pad
Don't think white would do much. Maybe a red of light blue.
Tell them to get a Saint Bernard, he'll have that floor dull in no time.
This is the only acceptable solution. This time, stir the flattening agent into the finish better. It all settles to the bottom.screen off and re coat?
Hey, but think about all the money this homeowner saved by DIY instead of hiring a floor professional. He probably bought the cheapest poly he could find at Blowes or big orange, didn't even stir the flattening agents back into the finish properly and now it's too shiny. Oh the horror of it all....
He could get some kneepads and hand rub it down to whatever sheen he wants:whistlingThis is the only acceptable solution.
Thanks for the input. this is a kitchen with 2 seperate adjoining rooms that werenot and will not get refinished, so additional coating will make for blending issues?? If we just buff it with white or red does the finish nedd to cure for days first?This is the only acceptable solution. This time, stir the flattening agent into the finish better. It all settles to the bottom.
This makes no sense. How is it that additional coats make for blending issues, but the initial coat didn't?Thanks for the input. this is a kitchen with 2 seperate adjoining rooms that werenot and will not get refinished, so additional coating will make for blending issues?? If we just buff it with white or red does the finish nedd to cure for days first?
The advice given was screen it. As in, sanding screen, or sand dollar. If you don't abrade between coats, you run the risk of finish failure with your topcoat.
Yes there is already a blending issue. H-O is trying to be cost effective (cheap) and do one room at a time. Maybe later for other rooms. HA HAThis makes no sense. How is it that additional coats make for blending issues, but the initial coat didn't?
The advice given was screen it. As in, sanding screen, or sand dollar. If you don't abrade between coats, you run the risk of finish failure with your topcoat.
Are you sugesting then a oscilating sander with say 220 screen then pad it ? or just orbital?
You need to learn the word no & learn to be a better salesman. If you want to do it one room at a time, the cost is going up per room by 50%Yes there is already a blending issue. H-O is trying to be cost effective (cheap) and do one room at a time. Maybe later for other rooms. HA HA
Are you sugesting then a oscilating sander with say 220 screen then pad it ? or just orbital?
Screen with low speed buffer, red pad (driver) & 120 grit screen.
Thanks. Lesson learned.You need to learn the word no & learn to be a better salesman. If you want to do it one room at a time, the cost is going up per room by 50%
Screen with low speed buffer, red pad (driver) & 120 grit screen.
IF the product was stirred properly and the flattening paste was mixed in nicely then let the finish cure for 30 days. See what the sheen level is like then. As the finish cures it shrinks. This will make the flattening particles come closer together making the finish look flatter.
I see this all the time with my cabinet finishes. The first couple of days the finish is semigloss and as time goes by it settles into satin.
Don't do anything unless you have waited the full cure cycle.
I see this all the time with my cabinet finishes. The first couple of days the finish is semigloss and as time goes by it settles into satin.
Don't do anything unless you have waited the full cure cycle.
WOW!! 30 days to cure?IF the product was stirred properly and the flattening paste was mixed in nicely then let the finish cure for 30 days. See what the sheen level is like then. As the finish cures it shrinks. This will make the flattening particles come closer together making the finish look flatter.
I see this all the time with my cabinet finishes. The first couple of days the finish is semigloss and as time goes by it settles into satin.
Don't do anything unless you have waited the full cure cycle.
Depends on the finish. If you are using some kind of a standard oil based polyurethane, then yes, a full 30 days. Other finishes can be quicker or slower. Anything that you add a catalyst will likely be 85% cured in 24-48 hours and the rest in the next two weeks.
Ive been reading and performing wood finishing for the last eight years. Ive never read or heard anyone describe this tightening sheen variation you describe. Maybe it comes up with conversion varnishes but from laquer, water and polyurethane Ive never experienced this. As you walk on a floor the sheen will diminish from the abrasion but it takes months if not years and isnt the result of the curing process.
As any finish cures with flattening paste in it the flattening particles will get closer and closer making the sheen more dull as the finish cures. It's physics.
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