The cement board fastened to the curb is nice... Moisture will rust out those fasteners and rot the curb framing in about 5 years or so..
CENTERLINE MV said:- Tile backer over walls and over pan sides - slope a mud bed of concrete (I'd use this stuff: http://www.sakrete.com/products/detail.cfm/prod_alias/Crack-Resistant-Concrete) - kerdi the sloped pan, walls, and curb - install tile
Why would you Kerdi a pan with a liner? Isn't it kinda one or the other. If you were going to use Kerdi there wouldn't have been a need for a liner or mud bed. Just tape your seems and red guard it. If you really want to go overboard then Kerdi the walls but I would never Kerdi overtop of a mud pan. It's redundant and not really to spec. Also of you use Kerdi at all make sure all your thinset that touches the Kerdi is unmodified. But my professional opinion is with what you have to just tape and mud the seams of the cement board and red guard the walls then tile.
Why would you Kerdi a pan with a liner? Isn't it kinda one or the other. If you were going to use Kerdi there wouldn't have been a need for a liner or mud bed. Just tape your seems and red guard it. If you really want to go overboard then Kerdi the walls but I would never Kerdi overtop of a mud pan. It's redundant and not really to spec. Also of you use Kerdi at all make sure all your thinset that touches the Kerdi is unmodified. But my professional opinion is with what you have to just tape and mud the seams of the cement board and red guard the walls then tile.
Stevarino said:Why would you Kerdi a pan with a liner? Isn't it kinda one or the other. If you were going to use Kerdi there wouldn't have been a need for a liner or mud bed. Just tape your seems and red guard it. If you really want to go overboard then Kerdi the walls but I would never Kerdi overtop of a mud pan. It's redundant and not really to spec. Also of you use Kerdi at all make sure all your thinset that touches the Kerdi is unmodified. But my professional opinion is with what you have to just tape and mud the seams of the cement board and red guard the walls then tile.
jarvis design said:Why Kerdi? Because, as previously stated, that liner is sitting flat on the subfloor. Their is no pre-slope and no weep holes, so, the mud bed is going to get saturated with moisture, soap and shampoo residue, body oils, etc, then it's going to get mouldy. Ripped out dozens of tile showers...most we're poly liners, seen a dozen or so lead, and a handful of copper. All built the same way and all a disgusting mess to rip out. Schluter sell a bonding flange drain that will adapt to the common 2 part clamping drain.
avenge said:No matter how it's done the mud bed should still be waterproofed. The copper to me is just insurance if the membrane fails which I have seen happen with Kerdi.
Flat copper pans...Kerdi failing....these are definite signs of the impending apocalypse.
Wait you are saying you HAVE seen the Kerdi membrane fail? If it fails then it must not be installed to spec. If installed to Schluter's specifications they will warranty it for ten years and cover all replacement costs.