How do I finish this tile to drywall transition corner?
I have a lot of drywall experience of very limited scope. I have never encountered this before, but I'm sure some of you have many times. The left side of the image is hardibacker for a tile shower surround. The right side is green board (the width of a stud). I'm guessing I just give it a corner bead with virtually no height to fill in on the tile side?
![Wall Ceiling Floor Tile Wood]()
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Oops, wrong button. Also this mobile app apparently doesn't understand EXIF tags for image rotation. Sorry.
Other question: do I just tape the upper corner the same as I would any other? Except not worry about finish quality on the tile side.
![Text Floor Wall Line Tile]()
Thanks!
Other question: do I just tape the upper corner the same as I would any other? Except not worry about finish quality on the tile side.
Thanks!
You could use some L-Bead to give it a uniform edge. I have in situations like this. I have also finished up to the tile and caulked. (looked ghetto) but thats what the owner wanted.
I used this one time against tile on it came out sweet.
http://www.foambymail.com/blog/impr...ency-and-safety-with-versatile-foam-products/
It can be mudded on, glued on, or spray tacked. Caulk the edges and it looks "pro".
http://www.foambymail.com/blog/impr...ency-and-safety-with-versatile-foam-products/
It can be mudded on, glued on, or spray tacked. Caulk the edges and it looks "pro".
What's the second picture? Orientation/location? Confusing pics you have there.
As for the first pic...assuming it's outside the wet area (and plumb), bed some reinforced corner onto it (I wouldn't nail the bead, since it pushes out the edge). Then add a schluter edge and tile into it. Then mud to the outer wall side of it, then paint.
As for the first pic...assuming it's outside the wet area (and plumb), bed some reinforced corner onto it (I wouldn't nail the bead, since it pushes out the edge). Then add a schluter edge and tile into it. Then mud to the outer wall side of it, then paint.
What MarkJames said. Cornerbead it as normal. Use thinset on the tile side and either put a Schluter profile or bullnose right to the corner. I prime and first coat these areas first whenever possible just to make things easier to clean up.
I would use a nail on cornerbead, thinset one side,mud the other.
Then red guard it. skim with mud to smooth it and seal with paint.
Put the shluter strip 3/4 inch or so back from the corner.
Picture is confusing though, I am reserving the right to change my opinion.
Then red guard it. skim with mud to smooth it and seal with paint.
Put the shluter strip 3/4 inch or so back from the corner.
Picture is confusing though, I am reserving the right to change my opinion.
Tear away bead, then caulk the transition against the surround
Correct...............Install corner bead as tight as possible, keep it plumb. If your framing is plumb this makes the whole process much easier. Your tile man should pre fill with thinset on tile side. It will need a little.
Just angle tape the ceiling and finish drywall side only.
Just angle tape the ceiling and finish drywall side only.
Any reason for 1/4" Hardie on the wall?
On that website there is a discussion about foam crown molding. The manufacturer apparently cuts the product to fit the corners, and shows how to use paper templates to derive the corner angles.
I used the template method once in a pinch when I didn't have my digital protractor, but found a dollar store nearby and bought a small school type plastic one.
Was able to do a small stain grade crown job with out of square rooms and didn't have to make a trip back to the shop.
I used the template method once in a pinch when I didn't have my digital protractor, but found a dollar store nearby and bought a small school type plastic one.
Was able to do a small stain grade crown job with out of square rooms and didn't have to make a trip back to the shop.
Thanks for the replies. This project is the unfinished basement where I live, but it's not my place. I'm doing the drywall in exchange for 2 months free rent. (It works out about 15% less than I would normally charge, but I don't have any travel expenses.)
The framing is BAD. Last night I hung a 16 foot board with a cutout for the bathroom where the angle of the cutout lost a half inch per foot (2 inches out of square over just more than 4 feet). The first several boards I cut thinking they were at least close to square. With plumbing box cutouts (which themselves looked like Mad Hatter contraptions before I shimmed them out to plumb, level, and square) already cut out and the board already on the hoist I just had to pick which end of which side of the board would get a big gap. Another wall he built around the laundry was attached to the ceiling and the next wall, but not the floor/foundation. It allowed at least 6 inches of swing. I pulled out my rafter square and fixed it. Unfortunately all the others that have been off were attached very solidly to the floor. I have to give him credit for that. He is not planning on anything moving.
Anyway, it's been quite a project. Normally I wouldn't bother fixing all of this, but since I'm going to be seeing it every day I decided it's worth the extra effort.
The owner showed up yesterday to do the tile before I saw the replies here. I asked him how he wanted the corners. He said there's no need to tape the lids, and just throw a corner bead on the one I showed you and he would finish it off. So I did.
Thanks again for the replies. I learned for future reference anyway.
The framing is BAD. Last night I hung a 16 foot board with a cutout for the bathroom where the angle of the cutout lost a half inch per foot (2 inches out of square over just more than 4 feet). The first several boards I cut thinking they were at least close to square. With plumbing box cutouts (which themselves looked like Mad Hatter contraptions before I shimmed them out to plumb, level, and square) already cut out and the board already on the hoist I just had to pick which end of which side of the board would get a big gap. Another wall he built around the laundry was attached to the ceiling and the next wall, but not the floor/foundation. It allowed at least 6 inches of swing. I pulled out my rafter square and fixed it. Unfortunately all the others that have been off were attached very solidly to the floor. I have to give him credit for that. He is not planning on anything moving.
Anyway, it's been quite a project. Normally I wouldn't bother fixing all of this, but since I'm going to be seeing it every day I decided it's worth the extra effort.
The owner showed up yesterday to do the tile before I saw the replies here. I asked him how he wanted the corners. He said there's no need to tape the lids, and just throw a corner bead on the one I showed you and he would finish it off. So I did.
Thanks again for the replies. I learned for future reference anyway.
Sorry the images were confusing. They seemed perfectly clear to me, but then I know the context. When I attached them to this post (again, with the mobile app for the site) I saw that they were not rotated correctly. But I thought the explanation about each would make it clear enough. I think even those who expressed that it wasn't clear still seemed to understand what I was saying. Thanks and sorry again!
yes
lol...... I thought it was a ceiling joining a wall when I replied.
The second one was. The first one was the partition wall between the shower and vanity.
Tear away = zip bead? If so, yeah that would be a nice alternative. I'm so used to using it around windows, I didn't even think of it in this application. Much better alternative than L bead.
Yes tear away and zip strip are the same thing
The drywall talk app does the same thing to pics. Basically you need to hold the phone like it's a camera. Then they show correctly. They really need to fix this. Seems like such an easy thing!
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