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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got an older 10" delta cabinet saw. Bought it used about 7-8 years ago from the woodshop of a military school & it was old then. Motor has been getting weak on it & now the starting capacitor seems to have gone out. Most of the time now, I've gotta use a board to fling the blade to get it to run.:w00t:

I've got the green light to start researching a new saw. ( she knows I don't shop without buying) Price tag is not the final deciding factor, but if I can keep an extra grand in my pocket & still be satisfied with my purchase, that would be the best of both worlds.

New Delta or powermatic gonna run around $2500, give or take or a new grizzly for $1300-1500. Grizzly showroom in about 4 hours from home, so if I go that route, I'll just jump in the truck & take a roadtrip.

I've currently got a few grizzly tools. 3 hp shaper, 15" thickness planer, 24" duel head drum sander & a couple dust collectors. None of which have ever failed to get the job done, but have had to have some extra tweaking from time to time.

Anyone got a 10" grizzly cabinet saw? One of my big concerns is the rip fence. I love the unifence with my delta. Concerned about the grizzly fence being as accurate & versatile.
 

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Pompass Ass
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I've got an older 10" delta cabinet saw. Bought it used about 7-8 years ago from the woodshop of a military school & it was old then. Motor has been getting weak on it & now the starting capacitor seems to have gone out. Most of the time now, I've gotta use a board to fling the blade to get it to run.:w00t:

I've got the green light to start researching a new saw. ( she knows I don't shop without buying) Price tag is not the final deciding factor, but if I can keep an extra grand in my pocket & still be satisfied with my purchase, that would be the best of both worlds.

New Delta or powermatic gonna run around $2500, give or take or a new grizzly for $1300-1500. Grizzly showroom in about 4 hours from home, so if I go that route, I'll just jump in the truck & take a roadtrip.

I've currently got a few grizzly tools. 3 hp shaper, 15" thickness planer, 24" duel head drum sander & a couple dust collectors. None of which have ever failed to get the job done, but have had to have some extra tweaking from time to time.

Anyone got a 10" grizzly cabinet saw? One of my big concerns is the rip fence. I love the unifence with my delta. Concerned about the grizzly fence being as accurate & versatile.

Why don't you just put new capacitors in it? or a new motor?

If you do buy a new saw, Delta unisaw's are hard to beat, get the 5 HP saw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Why don't you just put new capacitors in it? or a new motor?

If you do buy a new saw, Delta unisaw's are hard to beat, get the 5 HP saw.

Mainly cause I live in BFE & don't know where to have the motor serviced around here.. Nothing wrong with this saw other than the motor not starting right
 

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Mainly cause I live in BFE & don't know where to have the motor serviced around here.. Nothing wrong with this saw other than the motor not starting right
Then get on the internet, and figure it out. The motor should have the frame number on it, you could buy a new one from grainger.

Or you could pull the moter, and have it repaired/rebuilt.

You have a saw that could last 100 years, and you would discard it and spend $2500 on a new saw before you would spend $200 on a repair!:wallbash:
 

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I've got an older 10" delta cabinet saw. Bought it used about 7-8 years ago from the woodshop of a military school & it was old then. Motor has been getting weak on it & now the starting capacitor seems to have gone out. Most of the time now, I've gotta use a board to fling the blade to get it to run.:w00t:

I've got the green light to start researching a new saw. ( she knows I don't shop without buying) Price tag is not the final deciding factor, but if I can keep an extra grand in my pocket & still be satisfied with my purchase, that would be the best of both worlds.

New Delta or powermatic gonna run around $2500, give or take or a new grizzly for $1300-1500. Grizzly showroom in about 4 hours from home, so if I go that route, I'll just jump in the truck & take a roadtrip.

I've currently got a few grizzly tools. 3 hp shaper, 15" thickness planer, 24" duel head drum sander & a couple dust collectors. None of which have ever failed to get the job done, but have had to have some extra tweaking from time to time.

Anyone got a 10" grizzly cabinet saw? One of my big concerns is the rip fence. I love the unifence with my delta. Concerned about the grizzly fence being as accurate & versatile.
Why not just replace the motor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Why not just replace the motor?

I'm not at all opposed to that option, just honestly don't know where to start in making that happen. I'm a wood butcher, not a mechanic. I'm pretty good at taking things apart & putting them back together though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
.....because he wants a NEW toy and Sweetie said it was okay....:clap:

Can I have your Delta?:shifty:
I'm lucky in the fact that if we can afford it, she never says no to a new tool that will make money. Usually, her question is, will that one be good enough, or are you just settling on the lesser model to save money.:thumbup:

& no, you can't have my old one since I'm confident someone here is going to steer me in the right direction to get it back up & going.:laughing:
 

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I have an older model Unisaw that I rebuilt, I bought a 1-1/2 hp unisaw motor off a friend who was upgrading and it works great.
 

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Pompass Ass
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I'm lucky in the fact that if we can afford it, she never says no to a new tool that will make money. Usually, her question is, will that one be good enough, or are you just settling on the lesser model to save money.:thumbup:

& no, you can't have my old one since I'm confident someone here is going to steer me in the right direction to get it back up & going.:laughing:
on the motor it will have 2 cpacitors, the metal one smaller MFD rated is the run capacitor, the larger one in a bakelite case with a higher MFD rating, that is the start capacitor.

look at the MFD rating as well as the voltage on the capacitor and order the same model off of the ineternet.

You can increase the volatge from a 370 volt to a 44o volt, but you can not decerease it, and you need to be with 10% of the MFD rating.

What size motor is it?

It should be either a 3 HP or a 5 HP

You can replace the capacitors for less than $50 a new motor could be $350 or more depending on where you buy it.

it is definately worth fixing this one.

Or buy a new one and then fix it the old one, then you have 2 cabinet saws. :thumbsup:

if you need help with it let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
:clap::clap::clap: Lets here it for Big Walley, internet good guy:clap::clap::clap:

:clap::clap::clap: Yessir, I agree. Thank you sir.

I pulled the seriel # while I was at the shop this morning & am going to see about buying a new motor for now & will save the other one for repair. Now, I just gotta figgure out where to get a new motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
on the motor it will have 2 cpacitors, the metal one smaller MFD rated is the run capacitor, the larger one in a bakelite case with a higher MFD rating, that is the start capacitor.

look at the MFD rating as well as the voltage on the capacitor and order the same model off of the ineternet.

You can increase the volatge from a 370 volt to a 44o volt, but you can not decerease it, and you need to be with 10% of the MFD rating.

What size motor is it?

It should be either a 3 HP or a 5 HP

You can replace the capacitors for less than $50 a new motor could be $350 or more depending on where you buy it.

it is definately worth fixing this one.

Or buy a new one and then fix it the old one, then you have 2 cabinet saws. :thumbsup:

if you need help with it let me know.

I found this website in my search for just how old this saw of mine is. This has gotta be pretty close to the same age as mine. His is 1947. My ser# is 36-7020. My saw looks just like his, except mine's been updated with a unifence.

Still worth refurbishing this old motor?

http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jimknapp/Unisaw.html
 

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I'm not at all opposed to that option, just honestly don't know where to start in making that happen. I'm a wood butcher, not a mechanic. I'm pretty good at taking things apart & putting them back together though.
Take the motor off and take it to a armature works company and have it rewound. Not that much money, or get the frame size off the plate and rpm and buy a new motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Take the motor off and take it to a armature works company and have it rewound. Not that much money, or get the frame size off the plate and rpm and buy a new motor.

The new motor route is what I'm looking at. Just gotta figure out what replacement motor to buy. Finding someone local to rebuild this thing will be a feat. Nearest city of any size is 70 miles away. Can't afford to have this saw down for any period of time. That was why I was originally considering replacing it.
 

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Pompass Ass
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The new motor route is what I'm looking at. Just gotta figure out what replacement motor to buy. Finding someone local to rebuild this thing will be a feat. Nearest city of any size is 70 miles away. Can't afford to have this saw down for any period of time. That was why I was originally considering replacing it.
On the plate on the motor it will have a frame size and a rpm and voltage and HP. That is all you should need to order a new motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I've been doing a lot of reading & asking questions on Old Woodworking Tools forum. Looks like I'm back to my original question/plan.


Here's an answer I got when I posed my question to those guys.

Dave Cav said:
There aren't any capicators in your motor. It's a repulsion/induction (R/I) motor and uses carbon brushes and a shorting necklace for starting and running. As Keith suggested the first thing to do is review the referenced Delta publications. Depending on your comfort level with motors, you might also want to take the motor apart, inspect and clean/replace the brushes as necessary, and have the commutator cleaned up. The bearings should probably be replaced in a saw this age as well. Unfortunately you can't just buy any old motor and drop it in to a Unisaw. They use a special mounting setup , so a Unisaw specific motor is necessary. In addition, a modern (that is non-R/I) motor, the only kind now available new, will hit the cabinet when you tilt the blade. The R/I motors are the way to go on the older saws, and well worth the trouble to rebuild or have a good motor shop rebuild for you.
Looks like for now, I'll be shopping for a new saw. Doubt I'll get rid of the old girl though. Those guys seem really competent in rebuilding old equipment & it looks like a really fun project to take on.

Anyone with any experinece with Grizzly/shopfox cabinet saws?

BTW, from the seriel #, my saw dates to 1945. 55 years is a long time for her to be in service.
 

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I wish that I had a lot of my 'old' tools back, I still have quite a few in service. I foolishly thought that new and shiney would be better. I couldn't have been more wrong.

The best cabinet saw that I've seen lately was made in eastern Europe and cost as much as a small car.
 
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