I disagree with grumpy about the hand nailed quality thing. I used to hand nail. I currently gun nail. It is your installer that you have to worry about. I can put on just as high quality of a roof as grumpy does with hand nails. Of course, you have to actually care about what youre doing to do a good job, as it is with anything.
I only use GAF Shingles for my discretionary specifying. This is because I have never had a problem with their products, commercial, or residential.
Like Grumpy said....Price is the last thing you want to woory about on THE component of your home that is the PRIMARY weather protector. I do not understand why most people will want to go as low as possible on the items which insure their well being, while most will spend a fortune on the items within the protection of the cheapest roof thay can get. Not targeting you, just the line of thinking. When I get your pic, I will give my advice.
There are generally four things that get ignored when the California cut valley fails.
1. The low side does not wrap high enough up onto the high side
2. Shingles do not get dubbed on the high side when running into the valley. This is when you cut the corner of the shingle off to prevent water running across the tops of the shingles and emptying behind the low side valley wrap.
3. The bottom course does not get weaved.
4. Nailing within 12" of the valley centerline
If you do these things correctly, you should not have problems. I ALWAYS California cut my valleys, and have never had a problem with a single one.
I say weaved valleys are chit. They do nothing more for watertightness that wrapped valleys. They just look awful.
I cannot say, still, if the valley is done correctly. If it isnt leaking, it may be done correctly. If it is leaking, it is not done correctly.
This is a cricket, as it diverts water to exit the roof where they all tie together and make a dead valley, at least would have made a dead valley.
I think if it were my house, and decided I would shingle it:
1. Shingle up to the transition that turns into the valley.
2. Flash the side which consists of a fascia board and counterflash
3. Lay ice shield in full length sheets perpendicular to the main flow of water (which is coming towrd me in the pic you sent), covering the entire cricket, and continuing 2' up the adjoining slopes
4. Carry the low side shingle head up into the cricket area
5. Start your first shingle on the cricket side centered and placed, but no nails in the valley. You can nail this shingle up at the tops on either side.
6. Second course of shingles would be butted in the center of the valley with no nails through the normal nail line....you would want to nail this course with the next course's normal nail pattern.
7. Make the steeper sloped roofs your dubbed sides with the cut.
I would feel better with mod bit in a two layer configuration. your average shingler will not know how to install this properly AND make all transitions purty.
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