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I feel you ARE DEFINETLY sacrificing quality by gun nailing but many roofers disagree. If you search this forum you will find very lengthy debates regarding this topic. FYI all the reputable roofers on the North Shore, where you are from originally hand nail their roofs.

I dislike owens corning shingles, but I hear they stand behind their warranty. Your contractor buys his shingles from lowes? That's odd that he doesn't have a roofing supply house.

I'd definetly like to see the cricket but modified bitumen could work. I prefer soldered copper on my crickets. If modified bitumen is used you definetly want a base sheet, which is not the same as sloped roof felt.

Architectural shingles typically are rated better, longer warranty and better wind resistance... however choose a shingle that looks best on your home. Yes an architectural has higher resale value, assuming your roof slope is 7/12 or better. If you use architectural find out if they are installing "distinctive ridge caps" which will add to the price. Judging by the $800 upcharge they are, but never assume. Neither shingle is easier than the other to install IMO.

I always use 30lb on my sloped roofs.

Grace is the best I&W on the market. You want your ice shield to extend at least 1 1/2' past the warm wall. Which means if you have a 2' over hang and 6/12 pich you need more than 3' of ice shield. If you have a 1' over hang then 3' is adequate. Also place ice shield around any dormers, skylights, chimneys etc...

Dave use some photo editing software to manipulate the size of the photo.
 

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DaveP said:
Then is a modified bitumen ok for my "pocket" area. Or should I go with shingles with Grace I&W? Again. the slope is less than 3/12 has some flat areas.
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Either is acceptable. If it is visible consider shingles... but both will work.

In a pocket a weaved valley is deffinetly a better valley. That won't be an issue if you used modified bitumen, only if you use a shingle.

I don't call it california cutting but I do the same as Aaron.
 
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