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Has anyone ever used a product called Home Slicker from Benjamin Obdyke with Hardi-Plank siding? I have installed it on a new house at my customers request and I am having a problem with the siding bowing.
I understand using the Home Slicker with organic siding products. Can anyone explain to me the benefits of using it with Hardi-Plank because I see none.
 

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Im also interested in a rain screen-drainage plane.

Iv been looking for first hand info on this product as well. I did find quite a bit on jlconline.com's forum. I have read another report of the home slicker pushing the siding out but cant see how it could unless the siding was nailed to tight. The advantage is that water that does get behind (and it will) will drain and dry quickly. It also prevents negative pressures from pulling water up and into walls at the seams.

I think a rain screen-drainage plane is good insurance to keep walls dry but is time consuming and can become a nightmare if not done right. Furing strips now sound like the only safe way to do it IMO.

After reading about swelled osb behind tyvek and vinyl. Im a bit worried about my decision to install vinyl siding. Especially since I have 4 mil poly behind my drywall which could trap moisture if the tyvek could not release it with vinyl covering it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
GiantScale said:
Iv been looking for first hand info on this product as well. I did find quite a bit on jlconline.com's forum.
Could you give me the exact page where you found the info on jlconline? I've posted on that forum about this too and haven't gotten much back about it.
 

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I have a box of their samples in my office and I think it is a must under cedar siding. It's sometimes hard to get the customer to pay the extra $$$ for the product since many other guys in my area don't even know it exists. Honestly in my opinion this product is a must if your siding is not pre-stained on ALL sides, meaning the back. Just to rephrase if the back is not prestained blocking out the moisture you will have rot issues from the back side; which is the reason to use the home slicker.

Home slicker allows the wall behnid the cedar siding to breathe.

Call Benjamin Obdykee (sp) the manufacturer of Home Slicker and ask them for samples and brochures. They'll send out plenty.
 

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Home Slicker

yes I have heard of it and I am doing 3 customs this year, the only thing I see wrong with the product is there is a mesh on the out side of the wrap, the mesh is to give a air space between the house and the siding. What i see the problem being is when you nail the siding on are you going to crush the mesh and then there will be very little air space, I might just use 1x4 straping and house wrap. One other problem will be wraping the inside of the door and window openings with the mesh on, it will have to be cut off. If i find out any more info I will like you know.
Dave H DSL

Has anyone ever used a product called Home Slicker from Benjamin Obdyke with Hardi-Plank siding? I have installed it on a new house at my customers request and I am having a problem with the siding bowing.
I understand using the Home Slicker with organic siding products. Can anyone explain to me the benefits of using it with Hardi-Plank because I see none.
 

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Home Slicker With Hardie Panels

Has anyone ever used a product called Home Slicker from Benjamin Obdyke with Hardi-Plank siding? I have installed it on a new house at my customers request and I am having a problem with the siding bowing.
I understand using the Home Slicker with organic siding products. Can anyone explain to me the benefits of using it with Hardi-Plank because I see none.
I am about to Side a job with the 1/4 " hardie panels over Tyvek wrap and then the Home Slicker from Benjamin Obdyke. I have never used this product before and am curious of what the outcome will be. I am following the designers protocol on this project. The Hardie Panels are to be of obs tract shapes and sizes with a 1/4" gab between panels. I am to use a coil stock metal in between the seams behind the Hardie just to cover the 1/4" spacings. I am concerned on if the paneling will lay flat and also it has been planned to use Hardie nails, but I am concerned that they will blow out where nailed. I have seen that screws are also an option. If any body is familiar with these products and have experience with the outcome I would greatly appreciate your response
 

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I am in St. Paul MN, I began cutting panels today and am beginning install tomorrow. I have decided to use screws in a uniform pattern so I am able to adjust the panels in and out where needed. And between the joints set at a 1/4" there will be a 24 gauge coil stock (i don't recall the name of but the product excepts paint very well) The panels on this project are of various sizes. I will take pictures and also post updates on progress. Both the home slicker and the rain screen system I have not worked with before so I am curious to see how the outcome is.
 

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topsail's trimcat
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most of the homes i put siding on get harti or wood.

the only time we use home slicker is when there is cedar shingles or shakes going on. we run strips of 3/8 doug fir plywood around the r.o's so to get a proper seal, the plywood gets a vycor treatment before the window goes in, from there the homeslicker buts up to the plywood. as for compressing it, weve found hand nailing is the only thing that causes it to happen so we gun nail with stainless steel ring nails

with harti board or prefinished wood shiplap or clapboard siding. we install 3/4" vertical furring strips to fasten the siding to, in the colder months we generally switch to 1" as its less susceptible to splitting when its frozen. the brand of wood board siding we use specifically calls for a minimum of 3/4
furring strips anything less will void the warrenty
 

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depends on what your looking for,there are many different types of ''rain screens'' from small gap capillary break types to large convective drying ones


swelled osb from properly installed tyvek and vinyl siding? ive never seen it
 

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Dan
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so if you are priming/sealing cedar clapboard on all sides before install, you can just install right over the tyvek right? I've got a small cedar job to do where we are stripping a small addition down to the studs and resheathing. I've thought about using this home slicker behind our siding but I think fir strips would be just as good and probably faster to put on. it's not a lot of siding.
 

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well thats what tyveck says Dan,and ive done alot of cedar like that, but at the minimum i would look into the ridged drain wraps,like the stucco wrap,or pactivs drain wrap
 

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well thats what tyveck says Dan,and ive done alot of cedar like that, but at the minimum i would look into the ridged drain wraps,like the stucco wrap,or pactivs drain wrap

Dont remember where, but I saw a job where they covered the entire outside of the house in tyvek, then put CCA latice panels over the whole outside and applied the hardie to that.
 

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Box Builder
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I think a drainage plane behind all siding is very important. I'm doing a siding job now. White cedar shakes. All casing and corner boards are backed with 1/4" luan ply because the homeslicker does crush a little but not much. If you are weaving corners then I would have solid nailing at the corners. Priming the luan is something I've considered, but I think as long as there is felt over the Luan at the siding to casing joint it will perform well
 

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HomeSlicker use

I am a structural engineer for wood and timber framing. Had HomeSlicker been around 3 years ago I would have used it on my new home. When in Switzerland and Denmark 4 years ago I saw homes that were three and four hundred years old with no sign of peeled paint having been painted over on homes. I inquired as to why.

I learned that they used vertical battens behind the siding which let air in at the bottom and out the top of walls, taking moisture with it. Therefore no trapped moisture came through the siding to cause blisters and no moisture was trapped behind the siding to rot out sheathing.

I went with 2x3 vertical battens outside of the sheathing and typar vapor barrier, in line with the 2x6 studs of the wall. It works slick but required all of the window and door casings to be custom made in the field. I believe, had I used the HomeSlicker with Typar I would not have had to make custom casings. It also required special screening, top and bottom, to keep out bugs.

By the way, I also coated the outside of the sheathing and the backside of my pine siding with BoraCare to kill off any carpenter ants, termites and other wood-eating critters who might want to make a dinner of my house. The previous cottage I took down to build the new, was rife with carpenter ants after 65 years of exposure to them. It almost came down on its own.:clap:
 
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