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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for a quality hole saw to cut in five inch can lights.would like one that is diamond impregnated for cutting through lath and plaster would like a diameter of 5 1/2" - 5 5/8". Any recommendations?
 

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I'm looking for a quality hole saw to cut in five inch can lights.would like one that is diamond impregnated for cutting through lath and plaster would like a diameter of 5 1/2" - 5 5/8". Any recommendations?
I think mine is a greenlee.
 

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Head Grunt
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Lennox or blue mole all the way IMO. Quite often in an older home like this i pass the buck onto the customer for the saw. If i am chancing on ruining a saw then someone has to pay. The only other hole saws i would consider is Milwaukee with the carbide tipped teeth. But i do not think they would work well for finesse cutting for like a recessed light where the trim ring may not cover any damage.
 

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Lennox or blue mole all the way IMO. Quite often in an older home like this i pass the buck onto the customer for the saw. If i am chancing on ruining a saw then someone has to pay. The only other hole saws i would consider is Milwaukee with the carbide tipped teeth. But i do not think they would work well for finesse cutting for like a recessed light where the trim ring may not cover any damage.
Plaster will ruin one in only a few holes...but the abrasive ones are kinda slow.
 

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Plaster will ruin one in only a few holes...but the abrasive ones are kinda slow.
Exactly why i do as Chewy stated and run them in reverse. But even then damage can occur and someone has to pay. I as well as you and others here are not out to do hack work so if the customer wants a good clean job than they pay, part of that charge is for tool wear/tear.
 

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Exactly why i do as Chewy stated and run them in reverse. But even then damage can occur and someone has to pay. I as well as you and others here are not out to do hack work so if the customer wants a good clean job than they pay, part of that charge is for tool wear/tear.
Reverse still screws them pretty hard, you can get 3-7/8 hole saws for around 12 bucks and throw them out as they wear down...but the big ones arnt cheap. The last big job I had in a wood lath and plaster house I started with an abrasive saw then switched to a regular one to finish the cut. The speakers I used a multimaster grout blade to penetrate the finish coat and half of the brown coat, then used a bi-metal to finish the cut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
480 has the right tool but its just the wrong size for me I need 5 1/2" and these only go to 3/8 damn Juno can is 5 1/2". if it has enough wobble it'll be just perfect and bored out to 5 1/2"
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Back on point about these POS Juno cans. What's the deal with a 5 1/2" hole come on everybody else is 5 3/8". Anybody make a 5 1/2" hole saw?
 

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Why not buy another brand of lights?
 

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Back on point about these POS Juno cans. What's the deal with a 5 1/2" hole come on everybody else is 5 3/8". Anybody make a 5 1/2" hole saw?
Are you sure it's a 5-1/2" That sounds like an odd-ball.
 

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Back on point about these POS Juno cans. What's the deal with a 5 1/2" hole come on everybody else is 5 3/8". Anybody make a 5 1/2" hole saw?


The difference between 5-1/2" and 5-3/8" is:

A whopping 1/16" on both sides.
 

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It's what was on site I have to go with the flow.
I've never seen a canlight that requires a 5-1/2" ONLY hole.

If they really are Juno, I'll bet 5-3/8 will work just fine.
 

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You may as well buy a new one for each job. Plaster is a pain.

Be careful it doesn't bind up and send you flying off the ladder!
I've had a Greenlee carbide grit 6-3/8 for 20 years. Sheetrock, plaster, vinyl, steel, hardiplank, plywood..... Still using it.
 
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