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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I need a concealed hinge for a flush inset frameless application that will allow the back end of the door to clear the edge of the cabinet to allow pull out shelves to work.

Will the Blum 170 degree hinges work? If so, will half-crank set up with a 9 mil plate work with a 6 mil bore?

Any one use the 155 degree "zero protrusion" hinge. Looks like it can only be used on overlay doors:sad:.

Any other tips and/or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeremy
 

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Maker of fine kindling
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The best way is to use a full crank hinge with a 0 plate and position the hinges without conflict with the rollouts. Then use the 1" standoff blocks by Blum to mount the slides for rollouts. That 1 inch will clear the back of the door but not the hinge itself.

The zero protrusion hinge is only a true zero protrution with a 0 plate and unfortunately you need a 18 mill plate to set it up flush inset.
 

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Maker of Fine Sawdust
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Just put blocks on the roll outs to get them to clear the doors. I don't know of an FF insert concealed hinge that clears the opening. Even if the 170 degree hinge clears the door, who wants to open the doors fully every time you want to use your roll out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Unfotunately, it's too late to block the rollers. Both the carcass and pull-outs have been built & finished... Ready to install. It's got to be a hinging solution if at all possible.
 

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Good luck with that. I made one and I put did eveything you did. Put the rolling shelf in there and it hit the doors by about 1/32" on both sides. I made the tray over and reblocked it. There was no hinge replacement.


So



Good luck with that.
 

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Maker of fine kindling
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Sometimes in life you just have to take your lumps and back track a little before you get to where you are gittin.

This is one of those times. It sucks, I know. Wish I could say I never had to back track like that but a liar I am not.

If you come up with a hinge that will swing the door clear of the opening in a flush inset application that is not on a high end built in fridge, you have found the holy grail of cabinet hinges.
 

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Unfotunately, it's too late to block the rollers. Both the carcass and pull-outs have been built & finished...
Maybe those pullouts could be re-built?:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:


or



Mount the door to the bottom pullout:thumbup:


That'll be tree-fiddy please..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think he's onto something.....
Me too. I threw that out there as an option to the h.o. (actually both bottom and top pullouts... it's a pantry door around 66" tall), but I told him I'd exhaust all hinge solutions first...

Barrel hinges? Looks like they open 180 degrees without throwing the backside of the door toward the center like the euros do. I've never used 'em. Any one else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you come up with a hinge that will swing the door clear of the opening in a flush inset application that is not on a high end built in fridge, you have found the holy grail of cabinet hinges.
I just came across this:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=255&tagem=rv

So I'm off on a quest up to the Rockler in Salem, NH tomorrow morning. You'll know if it works when I change my screen name to Percival...
 

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As long as you haven't punched the 35 mm hole in the doors they just might work.
 

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I would love to be optimistic for you but it looks to me like that cut sheet is set up in a full overlay.

If you pack it out and recess it to a flush inset application, my concern is that the door will not clear at 90 degrees and the arm may touch the box before it is fully open.

It's all guess work though. I wonder why they don't show the hinge in the closed position.

I really do hope you get it worked out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
As long as you haven't punched the 35 mm hole in the doors they just might work.
Success! The hinges worked:clap:.

I didn't bring a camera, but I'll snap a couple pics of them next time I'm at the job. Clever little piece of hardware. It's not just a question of sliding the mounting plates forward or back for overlay or inset. The whole thing mounts in a different orientation. The door plate for overlay setup becomes the cabinet plate for insets, and vice-versa. Pics will help...

Thanks for you help and encouragement.

J
 
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