You may want to look into - http://www.duradek.com/

Waterproofing is never cheap, but done right it is priceless

 

Waterproofing is never cheap, but done right it is priceless

my thoughts exactly.

Does he have a proper design that will make sure there is drainage after it is installed? A cantilevered design will deflect the balcony up and cause drainage back into the house. Once the furniture and people are in, no matter how the level/slope was watched during construction the deflection will occur. Commonly, people try to build to build a balcony level when it is built, which is a mistake.

If it is the common enemy (leakage, mold, etc.) that comes with ledgers, does he have proper flashing and counter flashing to keep the water out? You said that it was not flashed, so you could make things worse if ALL the water was directed back to the house. Water has to have a place to go and winds near the gulf only make it more difficult.

I worked in the Gulf area as a loss verifier for 5 months after Katrina and I saw the level of construction and attention to final performance and it was a real eye-opener.

the deck is approximately 1/4" per ft downpitched for runoff, over 10' span. It looks to me that when the deck was done, it was a deck and adding the cdx and carpet were an afterthought. Unfortunately the ledger isnt flashed either. I plan on fixing the flashing problem before I waterproof. I tried to explain the benefit of a high quality and modern waterproofing system, and he is just looking at the bottom line, and im not charging much at all, as a favor.

 

Does he have a proper design that will make sure there is drainage after it is installed? A cantilevered design will deflect the balcony up and cause drainage back into the house. Once the furniture and people are in, no matter how the level/slope was watched during construction the deflection will occur. Commonly, people try to build to build a balcony level when it is built, which is a mistake.

If it is the common enemy (leakage, mold, etc.) that comes with ledgers, does he have proper flashing and counter flashing to keep the water out? You said that it was not flashed, so you could make things worse if ALL the water was directed back to the house. Water has to have a place to go and winds near the gulf only make it more difficult.

I worked in the Gulf area as a loss verifier for 5 months after Katrina and I saw the level of construction and attention to final performance and it was a real eye-opener.

 

Sounds like you need a new torched down roof.

Plywood & carpet on deck is a recipe for trouble.

 

it is. I am trying to guide him. I have even tried fiberglass resin. He is talking cheap. There is no roof. the balcony joists ARE the ceiling joists in the garage. The house sits atop stilts, and as a typical stilt construction for the gulf front property, the lower area becomes parking. In this instance the lower area was scabbed together much like a pole barn and was sided straight up. So the deck is leaking into his sheetrocked garage. I am looking for a feasible solution that doesnt include a roof muck since I dont want it to leach into the carpet that will be applied. I understand the torchdown concept, but, in my opinion, it would provide a much too inconsistent finished surface for a carpet to be laid.

 

I would only recommend two solutions. One is a fiberglass mat/resin application similar to what is used on boat hulls. Two is a polyurea/polyurethane coating very similar to a spray on bedliner.
The fiberglass mat/resin system has been in use in my area for roughly twenty years. The surface should be gel coated every few years as routine maintanance. The downside is that it is very ridgid and I have seen the underlayment expand and tear the mat, usually at the seams of the underlayment. This generally happens when the underside of the deck is not vented properly and a moisture problem results.
The polyurea/polyurethane system also needs to be coated with a topcoat with a UV inhibitor, but it remains flexible and is very hard to damage. The downside to this product is that the product is very dependant upon surface prep, and will not properly bond if there is moisture present, or if the surface is dirty/dusty.
I have seen very good results with both products and they are similar in appearance when finished. Both are available in a rainbow of colors and can have additives in the topcoats to aid in skid resistance.:thumbsup:

 

I would only recommend two solutions. One is a fiberglass mat/resin application similar to what is used on boat hulls. Two is a polyurea/polyurethane coating very similar to a spray on bedliner.
The fiberglass mat/resin system has been in use in my area for roughly twenty years. The surface should be gel coated every few years as routine maintanance. The downside is that it is very ridgid and I have seen the underlayment expand and tear the mat, usually at the seams of the underlayment. This generally happens when the underside of the deck is not vented properly and a moisture problem results.
The polyurea/polyurethane system also needs to be coated with a topcoat with a UV inhibitor, but it remains flexible and is very hard to damage. The downside to this product is that the product is very dependant upon surface prep, and will not properly bond if there is moisture present, or if the surface is dirty/dusty.
I have seen very good results with both products and they are similar in appearance when finished. Both are available in a rainbow of colors and can have additives in the topcoats to aid in skid resistance.:thumbsup:

I think they are two great solutions along with the vinyl decking but this guy or his HO is sold on putting carpet back on overall which is beyond me.

 

I have done a few fiberglass decks on the jersey shore, and this would be a great application for it. He likes his carpet for some reason, I have never been a fan of carpet for anything, let alone an environment like this. I spoke to him a bit ago and am trying to talk him into something besides roof coating. I got out of him that he needs to keep the project under $1000. I know that the price for epdm membrane is going to run over $1000 alone. The deck is 10'x60'. I think a possible solution is using laticrete hydro ban, but I need to prep the surface according to the guidelines and thats $300+ for 5gal. The deck currently has aluminum roof coating under the carpet.

 

I got out of him that he needs to keep the project under $1000. I know that the price for epdm membrane is going to run over $1000 alone. The deck is 10'x60'.

At a budget of $1000, I don't think you can pull the old carpet and prep the surface properly, let alone give him a finished product that will last a year. Hell at 600 sq. ft., thats $1.67 sq. ft. I personally wouldn't do that job under any circumstances. You'll be hard pressed to put down a walkable deck surface for 3 times that money. Then the carpet guy is gonna slash through your flashing with a carpet knife anyway.

 

If there was ever a job to walk away from, that's the one. Run don't walk.

1k for that job is joke.

Seriously, not trying to be hard on you, tell that guy to save up some money & call you when he has it.

 

A decent job cannot be done for $ 1000. Good Luck.

 

He has you limited to a thousand dollars?...Since when does the homeowner establish the cost?
You can only give him what that thousand will buy and there aren't many options.
rj

 

you guys are missing the point that he is a friend of mine. I am doing this for little cost to no cost to me, I just want him to spend his money to have the proper materials to do the job right. The deck is salvageable. It has aluminum roof coating on it, it has split at some of the seams, and without flashing it is leaking at the posts.

everyone on this site is so worried about making a buck, and so cocky about the things they think they know about. what ever happened to seeing a problem and coming up with a practical solution without such drama.

 

you guys are missing the point that he is a friend of mine. I am doing this for little cost to no cost to me, I just want him to spend his money to have the proper materials to do the job right. The deck is salvageable. It has aluminum roof coating on it, it has split at some of the seams, and without flashing it is leaking at the posts.

everyone on this site is so worried about making a buck, and so cocky about the things they think they know about. what ever happened to seeing a problem and coming up with a practical solution without such drama.

I got the point right from your original post, but why would you try the impossible at the expense of a friendship?

 

I got your point as well. I'm not a roofer, but I have done a few projects that required waterproof decks. None of them came anywhere near a $ 1000 and were much smaller in size.

Good Luck.

 

http://www.polycoatusa.com

Awesome stuff!

 

I did not really read or bother to comprehend exactly since these types of projects are probably 1 in 1,000 around here... But would layers of ice and water shield work?

 

There is one thing a good harted Craftsmen like your self could do.

Learn to put down the modified your self. The actual cost of the base sheet/modified would be with in your range same with the cost of the torch. If your bound to flash/roof this thing for free put your back into it.

JonMon

 

well, from bradco supply, 45mil epdm membrane 10'x100' roll, 5gal adhesive, flashing and joint tape, and primer. all for under $600. not so sure where all of you got your figures at over a grand to seal a deck, have you become accustomed to ripping customers off for so long that you actually believe yourself that the cost is so high?

disappointing.

 

well, from bradco supply, 45mil epdm membrane 10'x100' roll, 5gal adhesive, flashing and joint tape, and primer. all for under $600. not so sure where all of you got your figures at over a grand to seal a deck, have you become accustomed to ripping customers off for so long that you actually believe yourself that the cost is so high? disappointing.

Experience - I don't see cleaner, not sure which flashing your using, if you had a leak, more than likely you are replacing some plywood & most companies will put insulation underneath the membrane, especially with drainage problems. Also seeing you only told us towards the end that it was 600 SF, we are all pretty sure you left some other pertinent info out like vents, skylights & ... never mind I'm not going there.


Then we get this

For those of you who know how to do this installation, are there any things I should be aware of? I know not to stretch the material, and the membrane will be re-covered afterwards because I was told by the manufacturer that the membrane will shrink over time in direct sunlight.

Like I have stated over again, Im helping out a friend, so any tips or advise would be appreciated.

Nothing personal - here's the manual, read it throughly - if you have any questions heres some more info - if after that you have a question - feel free to come back and ask it with all the information required

As for your last sentence - that is commendable, but what do you think most of us do here daily, including the one(s) that you accused of ripping people off.

 

Well then why ask us mister no it all.

Keep us updated how that works out. Somehow I think your friend will be doing the same sort of thing in the near future. I doubt you'll let us know about that tho.

 

I asked here first, looking for some expert opinions, which I did get some, unfortunately, as with any forum, some keyboard cowboys always chime in with their 2 cents which they should put in a jar to feed their starving egos.

if youre making any implications, its pretty pathetic since you have no idea about who I am and what I do. I forgot in this day and age, people aren't willing to help someone out unless it fattens their pocket. I do my best to help a friend in need, and after all these years, nobody has ever been less than thankful for my help. I explained that I have no idea about this work in my first post, and my buddy is happy with us knocking it out in a weekend with some pizza and stories to get us through. To me it's a learning experience, gotta start somewhere with some new concepts.

I have already checked into the details and it really isnt that big of a deal. I have a few posts to go around using flashing tape and primer to reseal any cuts I make, and to seal it to the post., and as long as I use latex adhesive, it gives me the chance to fix any "rookie" mistakes of this type of job. To me, its very similar to sheet flooring which I have done over and over again so I am not anticipating any serious issues. I do know that I should use a solvent adhesive along the edges and that adhesive is almost instantaneous, where the latex is workable, so I need to be on point when I work the edges.

For those of you who know how to do this installation, are there any things I should be aware of? I know not to stretch the material, and the membrane will be re-covered afterwards because I was told by the manufacturer that the membrane will shrink over time in direct sunlight.

Like I have stated over again, Im helping out a friend, so any tips or advise would be appreciated.

 

I'm done trying to get my point across. OP just does not understand he needs a roof under the deck, not a deck setting directly on the top plate.

Plus he's breaking the golden rule of contracting, don't work for friends or family. If he's doing whatever he can for a friend that's flat broke, working for free that's commendable, but I think this friend/customer is taking advantage of him.

Another thing I don't understand is if this is hurricane work, why didn't the guys insurance pay to get it fixed right to begin with.

 

Way to go Donnie!! I was pretty sure the materials for a torch down would run about what you had. One thing the mastic or glue down is not near as good as using a torch you might think about geting one.

I my own old self did a small torch down after watching my roofer guy do them for years It came out not bad, not as clean as his but it worked. Bummer having to go around the posts thats the hard part and an area where the torch really works best. J.

 

Hit the nail right on the head about the purpose of this site! Helpful!:thumbsup:

 

Duradeck is intersting stuff however a lot of Wallets are not happy with it down the road or so I have found on a couple of other sites. Involved install info. J.

 

What a bull headed _closed minded dork!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Leave the Dude Alone!!! ghessssssssssss WTF is all this stuff!!!! It was a simple request from a Pro, Guys.

I my very own Self have hasseled a ho geting on here but this is not that.

Man show a little Class. JonMon

 

Leave the Dude Alone!!! ghessssssssssss WTF is all this stuff!!!! It was a simple request from a Pro, Guys.

I my very own Self have hasseled a ho geting on here but this is not that.

Man show a little Class. JonMon

JonMon, I just read through the thread and am having a hard time finding a post of anyone giving this guy a hard time. He asked for a professional opinion and that is what he got.
Nobody was hazing him, or trying to give false or misleading information. I personally believe that what he is preparing to do is not giving his friend value for the dollar. I understand cheap is cheap, so if that is the goal, strip the deck back down to the treated decking, lose the makeshift enclosure and save the thousand dollars to do the job correctly somewhere down the road. Everybody wins.:clap:

 

I have used this and like it a lot...
http://www.alldeck.com/index.html

 

Hmmmmmm, your right. Im good with that. J.

 

Hmmmmmm, your right. Im good with that. J.

:thumbsup:

 

loneframer, I never once asked for any opinions about doing the work or not. I asked for information to do it properly. I have used membranes MANY times in YOUR neck of the woods of South Jersey, since I AM a jersey boy myself. I have spent much of my time building competely custom kitchen and baths, INCLUDING custom showers for many years. A lot of my work is in Alluvium and Alluvium woods of Voorhees, as well as a lot of Marlton and Mt Laurel area, Im sure that you have heard of these places, as I was based out of voorhees. I left because the economy is crap there with corzine, and my wife was offered a job in florida, to me it was the perfect time to bail on new jersey and those ridiculous property taxes. Never have I advertised for anything for my work, it has been word of mouth since I had a reputation built because I worked for a slacker way back when. Waterproofing this deck ain't rocket science, don't give yourself that much credit for being a dick about it. It's no big deal. Like I have stated, I was looking for some good input on what material would be best suited for the waterproofing. Obviously your opinions fell short, and you still keep going. My assumption is that you seem to have a problem with a new forum member trying to get some guidance in new territory. I would surely hope that you dont treat your clients in the same manner, i thought your mama woulda taught you better than to talk down to others. And I am glad that you are on your job 100% of the time, yay for you. Actually that is surprising in jersey. But, if you reread my post, instead of making it about you and your little business, you would understand that I actually felt bad about a previous post and my line about the small stuff referred to that. You should take a moment and think about how small you really are in this world, it ain't about you.