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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is is preferred to have the face of a regular style DW flush with the face of the cab, or the frame of the dw flush with the face frame of the cabinet? The side strips work either way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well, I haven't gotten any responses so I will try again with pics.
Do you like it like this or that? I've been doing cab door front DW's so I want to make everything flush....But I think with a metal front door it is supposed to sticks out, yes?
 

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OH! I thought DW meant Drywall so I didn't chime in since I didn't know what you were asking.

I usually mount the dishwasher so the door in in the same plane as the finished doors and drawers....so a little bit out from the back wall.

No reason for this other than I think it looks better.

Edit, I'll change the title of the thread so it's more clear.
 

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Windwash
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Well, I haven't gotten any responses so I will try again with pics.
Do you like it like this or that? I've been doing cab door front DW's so I want to make everything flush....But I think with a metal front door it is supposed to sticks out, yes?
Number 2 will exceed the countertop overhang
 

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I do between 1 - 3 DWs a week, and whenever possible I make the main plane of the door flush with the cabinet doors/drawers. Sometimes it's not possible though. There is an ideal, which your pic #1 is, and then there's what happens in the real world when your swapping a dishwasher in an existing house. I've had several times that I've had to use a small saw and take material out above the DW because even with the DW as low as it would go, and even though I just took a DW out of the hole, the new DW won't go in.
 

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#1 is better, but sometimes you will have a dishwasher with controls on the top and a big counter overhang and #2 will be preferred by the customer. Had it happen once before.
 

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The install really depends on the dishwasher. I wouldn't even try to answer this question without pictures of the top of the door. Why? Because several models have the controls on top of the door instead of on the face.
 

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I prefer #1 but I've had issues with clearance at the top and/or sides or I didn't have anything to screw the DW to underside of the countertop and had no choice but to bring them out further.
 

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If you have a quartz or marble top, you will have to set the dishwasher so the side clips line up with the frame of the cabinet.
Some of the dishwashers have plastic strips on the sides, that get screws through them. Those also have to be lined up with the frame of the cabinet. Even if screws don't go through the plastic strips, they are put in for sound dampening. This may determine how far back it has to be pushed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thanks for the feedback. Dishes are washing, check is cashed and spent.
Went with #1. I was in a hurry to get it dialed in before the slab arrived, way easier that way. Also had to snake plumbing through toekick, pita!

The DW was a Bloomberg, poor man's bosch. Very nice machine! One of the side strips had a kink, and they 2 day FedEx 'ed me a new one...so I like this company.
Front controls, but all the top controls I have seen don't need access when closed. (press setting and start, the close door.)

Has anyone direct drained a Dw in a residential? Seems like it would be the way to go if I had to do this again.
 

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I've had to drop through a floor and catch the drain from the kitchen sink before. Put a p trap into a y and put a barb fitting on the p trap.
 

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Ideally, push it back until it is flush with the drawer/door fronts. With top controls, it needs to be far enough out so that the controls are accessible with the countertop in place. That will vary a bit. Coordinate with your subs.
 

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I have done hundreds of DW when I was an installer for Blowes. #1 is the proper way IMO. On good days I could easily install 5, but had 1 that took 5 hours, when you're day is scheduled tight it is a HUGE PITA to call everyone to reschedule because the old lady that was first in the morning had a really old house, with all custom built kitchen that was over 100 years old. Old enough that there were no standard heights for counters, it was 32" tall not normal 36". Had to cut framing, legs off and really mess around to get it to fit.

In the end, got it and I won but dang it was horrible!

BTW, don't you just love the old shut offs that leak the moment you touch then? Got a supply of most sizes and shapes in trailer just in case.
 

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If the controls are on the top of the door I still like it flush with drawers. What I found on most models is that you can turn it on with the door open select settings you want and the water won't start till you close the door. So it not always needing to stand out if controls up on top
 
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