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Red line is correct.

"That measurement is approximately 80" <--That word that starts with "a" scares me, if it could mean 1/8" less your door will not work as designed. I would really suggest moving that trim with the red line up 1/4" or so until you get 80.25 dead on.....not with the "a" word.
 
Red line is correct.

"That measurement is approximately 80" <--That word that starts with "a" scares me, if it could mean 1/8" less your door will not work as designed. I would really suggest moving that trim with the red line up 1/4" or so until you get 80.25 dead on.....not with the "a" word.
Ok.. I went out and measured again and it is exactly 80".
 
The door might measure 83" but extending the hinge z-bar 1/4" over the top of the door + the 4000 top z-bar taking up 1/4" or 3/16" if you want to be picky....and allowing another 1/2"-5/8" for the bottom weatherstripping and expander frame kills that extra inch. Generally (not always) a model 4000 will fit 1/8" less than it's posted size (80"=79 7/8 assuming the frame is square within 1/4").

Will take your word for it. I had to adjust my door to fit.

I knew if we tal:thumbsup:ked long enough earlier, someone would be along with the right kind of experience to answer his questions.
 
I don't understand why the vertical jambs of the door can't be packed out and a standard door installed. 80" will work just fine. I use cedar pre-prime before you do it. Spanish cedar is ideal as it's a little denser.

Every time I order a door with side lights, and I know there is going to be a storm door on it, they do the packout from the factory and the storm door installs without a problem. I can't believe there are 4 pages on this thread from the OP to now about installing a storm door on a door with sidelights.
It seems straight forward to just build out those jambs, that is what they do from the factory when you order it with a storm door kit on it. 80-81 inches works and I've done a few that were just under 80. the expander is never tight to the door when it's 80 inches exact.

on another note, I hate storm doors. unless you go around doing them all day long every single day, you don't make any money on them. especially when people see that HD installs them for 70 bucks. or less at times. I won't do them except if an existing customer wants one and we happen to be working there doing other things, otherwise, it's not worth my time.
 
Doug's got it. That photo showing the top corner of the jambs with only 1/4" +/- means your house doesn't have "normal" 1/2" sheathing. On a 4 9/16" jamb that should have been 1", then the brickmoulding.
I'm with Doug on the Andersen insulated storm door...big waste of money and the frames are too weak to support the glass. You may set the door good today, but within 6 months that edge is going to sag and the bottom corner will start dragging on the entry door threshold.
 
Every time I order a door with side lights, and I know there is going to be a storm door on it, they do the packout from the factory and the storm door installs without a problem.

on another note, I hate storm doors. unless you go around doing them all day long every single day, you don't make any money on them. especially when people see that HD installs them for 70 bucks. or less at times. I won't do them except if an existing customer wants one and we happen to be working there doing other things, otherwise, it's not worth my time.
I don't like the way ThermaTru does the "factory" build out. They just take a piece of 5/4 on edge on nail it to the vertical jambs. That is too weak to support the weight of the storm. I lay one 5/4 on the flat so it is the full 2" width of the jamb post then lay up another 5/4x1" on top of that. That way I have the step in the jamb the same as if this was a regular entry with brickmould around it. The 5/4x2" board gives it the extra strength.
Those $70 HD installs are underwritten by the storm door companies to push out excess inventory. This job with sidelight build outs would be more like $170 plus wood. I would normally set 4 or 5 of these a day.
 
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