[Framer53]

I was thinking the same.

 

[Framer53]

OK, here is your answer. My front screen door is a 4000 model, custom ordered to 84". It's actual size is 83". The expander at the bottom makes up the difference.

I think your installer is not very experienced.:thumbsup:

 

[pglover19]

OK, here is your answer. My front screen door is a 4000 model, custom ordered to 84". It's actual size is 83". The expander at the bottom makes up the difference.

I think your installer is not very experienced.:thumbsup:

Can you please post a photo of the expander and your door....

 

[pglover19]

OK, here is your answer. My front screen door is a 4000 model, custom ordered to 84". It's actual size is 83". The expander at the bottom makes up the difference.

I think your installer is not very experienced.:thumbsup:

As far as the size, Home Depot cannot order the Anderson 4000 series with the insulating glass in 79". Do you have this door with the insulating glass?

 

[Framer53]

As far as the size, Home Depot cannot order the Anderson 4000 series with the insulating glass in 79". Do you have this door with the insulating glass?

I didn't buy the insulated glass.

The expander is a U shaped piece that attaches to the bottom of the door, with the rubber weather striping attached.

I think you are being told a load of crap.

 

[loneframer]

I looked up Andersens 4000 series door. It has a size variation of 80 to 80 7/8 for the RO. Did you measure to opening yourself, or take his word for it?

 

[WarnerConstInc.]

You could replace the door hardware that the brass finish is peeling off of.

 

[dougchips]

pglover19,

Measure from the sill up to the bottom of the top trim (the trim the runs between your transom and the entry door unit. Hopefully that measurement should be somewhere around 80". If the measurement is 79.25 or 79.5 look at removing the trim and moving it up so you get 80"........just make sure the trim does not stick up past the base of the transom creating a trap for water.

Another thing, your "buildout" looks like it's only around 1.5", how far out does that handle stick past the existing mull? If the buildout extends 1.5" that will make the storm door recess back to about .5" from the existing trim....might have a handle issue.

The 4000 door since it's a fullview can not be cut down! The door will fall apart since the whole integrity of the door comes from the angle slugs in the corners. The bottom expander is needed to compensate for your opening being out of square and to keep daylight out. Removing it will only get you about .5" but it defeats the purpose of your door.

Another thingy, the insulating glass is a waste of money! It will put to much strain on your hinge z-bar (frame) and will cause your door to fail long before using normal glass. While the glass is insulated, the rest of your frame is metal and will transfer heat. Your entry door should keep out the cold just fine without needing a storm door or at least a storm door with insulating glass.

 

[dougchips]

OK, here is your answer. My front screen door is a 4000 model, custom ordered to 84". It's actual size is 83". The expander at the bottom makes up the difference.

I think your installer is not very experienced.:thumbsup:

The door might measure 83" but extending the hinge z-bar 1/4" over the top of the door + the 4000 top z-bar taking up 1/4" or 3/16" if you want to be picky....and allowing another 1/2"-5/8" for the bottom weatherstripping and expander frame kills that extra inch. Generally (not always) a model 4000 will fit 1/8" less than it's posted size (80"=79 7/8 assuming the frame is square within 1/4").

 

[Tom Struble]

does anyone know his stuff better than dougchips:no::notworthy

 

[pglover19]

pglover19,

Measure from the sill up to the bottom of the top trim (the trim the runs between your transom and the entry door unit. Hopefully that measurement should be somewhere around 80". If the measurement is 79.25 or 79.5 look at removing the trim and moving it up so you get 80"........just make sure the trim does not stick up past the base of the transom creating a trap for water.

Another thing, your "buildout" looks like it's only around 1.5", how far out does that handle stick past the existing mull? If the buildout extends 1.5" that will make the storm door recess back to about .5" from the existing trim....might have a handle issue.

The 4000 door since it's a fullview can not be cut down! The door will fall apart since the whole integrity of the door comes from the angle slugs in the corners. The bottom expander is needed to compensate for your opening being out of square and to keep daylight out. Removing it will only get you about .5" but it defeats the purpose of your door.

Another thingy, the insulating glass is a waste of money! It will put to much strain on your hinge z-bar (frame) and will cause your door to fail long before using normal glass. While the glass is insulated, the rest of your frame is metal and will transfer heat. Your entry door should keep out the cold just fine without needing a storm door or at least a storm door with insulating glass.

From the sill to the bottom of the trim for the transom is 80". The door handle sticks out approximately 1/2" past the existing mull.

The reason I was getting the Anderson 4000 series with the insulating glass is because this storm door is required in order for me to qualify for the Federal Tax credit due to the full-lite stained glass panel in the front entrance door.

So what are my options here?

 

[Tom Struble]

put 2 3000 series storm doors on?that will give you almost 6000:smartass:

 

[loneframer]

From the sill to the bottom of the trim for the transom is 80". The door handle sticks out approximately 1/2" past the existing mull.

The reason I was getting the Anderson 4000 series with the insulating glass is because this storm door is required in order for me to qualify for the Federal Tax credit due to the full-lite stained glass panel in the front entrance door.

So what are my options here?

I would pack the mullions out flush to the trim at the transom unit and install the 4000.

 

[Tom Struble]

would your money be better spent on a new prime door?

 

[dougchips]

If you have the 80" don't use the installer who wanted a special order sized door. 80" means a z-bar cut of 79.75 which sort of pushes the limits of a stock size but it can be done or that top trim can be moved up 1/4" to make everything more comfortable.

The entry door handle and the storm door will be close but as a worse case you will only need to extend your buildout out another 1/4" with two layers of bottom weatherstripping on the 4000 at least one of them will hit the sill.

Your storm door and your entry door should be two different things when it comes to the tax credit. Your entry door with the sidelights SHOULD give you numbers of 30 or less so that SHOULD meet the guidelines on it's own. For the storm door you would be paying an extra $100 (taking a wild guess) for that useless glass bringing your price to lets say $350....30% of that (rebate) is around $105 so you will spend an extra $100 to get in essence $5?

Also, looking at your pictures again your exterior wood on your entry unit needs painting a a good bead of poly caulking where it meets the sill. Those doors with pine (soft wood that loves to rot) meeting a metal sill that transfers water to the pine are designed to fail within 10 years unless you keep up with them (paint/caulk) at least once a year. All of that white paint that came from the factory is just a primer without any UV protection it will die within a year depending on your exposure.

 

[dougchips]

would your money be better spent on a new prime door?

No....pimp out my offer earlier in this thread to fly out and install the door for $$$$$ plus airfare and goofy expenses. In another month or two I'll fly anywhere for $1600 plus airfare, lodging, expenses...to install these types of doors.

 

[Tom Struble]

i ain't a good pimp:no:Lone on the other hand.....:shifty:

 

[loneframer]

i ain't a good pimp:no:Lone on the other hand.....:shifty:

Pimpin' pimpin'.....:laughing:

 

[pglover19]

If you have the 80" don't use the installer who wanted a special order sized door. 80" means a z-bar cut of 79.75 which sort of pushes the limits of a stock size but it can be done or that top trim can be moved up 1/4" to make everything more comfortable.

The entry door handle and the storm door will be close but as a worse case you will only need to extend your buildout out another 1/4" with two layers of bottom weatherstripping on the 4000 at least one of them will hit the sill.

Your storm door and your entry door should be two different things when it comes to the tax credit. Your entry door with the sidelights SHOULD give you numbers of 30 or less so that SHOULD meet the guidelines on it's own. For the storm door you would be paying an extra $100 (taking a wild guess) for that useless glass bringing your price to lets say $350....30% of that (rebate) is around $105 so you will spend an extra $100 to get in essence $5?

Also, looking at your pictures again your exterior wood on your entry unit needs painting a a good bead of poly caulking where it meets the sill. Those doors with pine (soft wood that loves to rot) meeting a metal sill that transfers water to the pine are designed to fail within 10 years unless you keep up with them (paint/caulk) at least once a year. All of that white paint that came from the factory is just a primer without any UV protection it will die within a year depending on your exposure.

Doug,

I want to be sure I am measuring the correct thing.. From the bottom sill, I am measuring to the red line in the attached photo. This is the bottom of the trim to the transom that sticks out a little. That measurement is approximately 80".

 

[loneframer]

That red line is where the brick molding typically would be, without the transom. You will need to build out the vertical members between the door and sidelights so that they are flush with that top trim. Make sure your packing allows for the proper width of the rough opening. Install stormdoor.:thumbsup: