Hmmm, squeezing nickels and bleeding bucks, where have I seen that before. I thought those were some mega-corp-builder B/S doors. Oh well works for you I guess. I've never used Andersen storms cause none of the yards stock them, and I'd have to take a shower with bleach if I bought anything from the Despot.

 

I have a similar situation and Need Help!!!

I have the same situation as the original poster. Because my front entrance door has a full-lite stained glass in it, the only Anderson storm door at Home Depot that qualifies for Federal Energy tax credit is the Anderson 4000 series with insulating glass. I paid $35 for the Home Depot installer to come out to do the measurement and the installer informed me that I would need a storm door that is 36” X 79” which is a custom size. He explained to me how he would need to build out the jambs and install the storm inside the build out because of the bottom threshold. So, the door needs to be 79” in height and installed inside the build out in order to accommodate the bottom threshold. Please see the attached photos. Well, you cannot get a 4000 series door with insulating glass in a custom size of 79”. However, you can get the 3000 series door in a custom size of 79” (expensive), but it does not come with insulating glass, thus not qualifying for the Federal tax credit. Please advise on what to do.

 

One more photo

 

If I remember correctly the 80" door actually is less with the expander strip making up the balance.

I would go to HD and measure it with you tape.

 

Agreed, and worst case, I've cut storms down more than an inch before. It does look like the jambs would have to be extended to accommodate the latch hardware.

 

Yes.. You mean a buildout to accomodate the latch hardware? Are you telling me if I order the standard size (36" by 80"), the installer should be able to cut the Anderson 4000 series door with the insulated glass down to 79"? Please confirm....

 

I don't have a picture of that specific model of door in my head, so I wouldn't promise it could be cut down without looking at one. Nor could I promise that your installer would have the tools and expertise to do it properly, especially if he's a box store subcontractor. The quality of those guys is all over the map.

But there's a high level of probability that it can be done.

 

That appears to be a very common door, not old enough to be of unusual size. I'd check the opening height and cross reference it with the storm doors range of opening sizes.

That looks an awful lot like a Therma-Tru door from the pics.

 

I was thinking the same.

 

OK, here is your answer. My front screen door is a 4000 model, custom ordered to 84". It's actual size is 83". The expander at the bottom makes up the difference.

I think your installer is not very experienced.:thumbsup:

 

OK, here is your answer. My front screen door is a 4000 model, custom ordered to 84". It's actual size is 83". The expander at the bottom makes up the difference.

I think your installer is not very experienced.:thumbsup:

Can you please post a photo of the expander and your door....

 

I looked up Andersens 4000 series door. It has a size variation of 80 to 80 7/8 for the RO. Did you measure to opening yourself, or take his word for it?

 

You could replace the door hardware that the brass finish is peeling off of.

 

pglover19,

Measure from the sill up to the bottom of the top trim (the trim the runs between your transom and the entry door unit. Hopefully that measurement should be somewhere around 80". If the measurement is 79.25 or 79.5 look at removing the trim and moving it up so you get 80"........just make sure the trim does not stick up past the base of the transom creating a trap for water.

Another thing, your "buildout" looks like it's only around 1.5", how far out does that handle stick past the existing mull? If the buildout extends 1.5" that will make the storm door recess back to about .5" from the existing trim....might have a handle issue.

The 4000 door since it's a fullview can not be cut down! The door will fall apart since the whole integrity of the door comes from the angle slugs in the corners. The bottom expander is needed to compensate for your opening being out of square and to keep daylight out. Removing it will only get you about .5" but it defeats the purpose of your door.

Another thingy, the insulating glass is a waste of money! It will put to much strain on your hinge z-bar (frame) and will cause your door to fail long before using normal glass. While the glass is insulated, the rest of your frame is metal and will transfer heat. Your entry door should keep out the cold just fine without needing a storm door or at least a storm door with insulating glass.

 

pglover19,

Measure from the sill up to the bottom of the top trim (the trim the runs between your transom and the entry door unit. Hopefully that measurement should be somewhere around 80". If the measurement is 79.25 or 79.5 look at removing the trim and moving it up so you get 80"........just make sure the trim does not stick up past the base of the transom creating a trap for water.

Another thing, your "buildout" looks like it's only around 1.5", how far out does that handle stick past the existing mull? If the buildout extends 1.5" that will make the storm door recess back to about .5" from the existing trim....might have a handle issue.

The 4000 door since it's a fullview can not be cut down! The door will fall apart since the whole integrity of the door comes from the angle slugs in the corners. The bottom expander is needed to compensate for your opening being out of square and to keep daylight out. Removing it will only get you about .5" but it defeats the purpose of your door.

Another thingy, the insulating glass is a waste of money! It will put to much strain on your hinge z-bar (frame) and will cause your door to fail long before using normal glass. While the glass is insulated, the rest of your frame is metal and will transfer heat. Your entry door should keep out the cold just fine without needing a storm door or at least a storm door with insulating glass.

From the sill to the bottom of the trim for the transom is 80". The door handle sticks out approximately 1/2" past the existing mull.

The reason I was getting the Anderson 4000 series with the insulating glass is because this storm door is required in order for me to qualify for the Federal Tax credit due to the full-lite stained glass panel in the front entrance door.

So what are my options here?

 

does anyone know his stuff better than dougchips:no::notworthy

 

put 2 3000 series storm doors on?that will give you almost 6000:smartass:

 

would your money be better spent on a new prime door?

 

No....pimp out my offer earlier in this thread to fly out and install the door for $$$$$ plus airfare and goofy expenses. In another month or two I'll fly anywhere for $1600 plus airfare, lodging, expenses...to install these types of doors.

 

If you have the 80" don't use the installer who wanted a special order sized door. 80" means a z-bar cut of 79.75 which sort of pushes the limits of a stock size but it can be done or that top trim can be moved up 1/4" to make everything more comfortable.

The entry door handle and the storm door will be close but as a worse case you will only need to extend your buildout out another 1/4" with two layers of bottom weatherstripping on the 4000 at least one of them will hit the sill.

Your storm door and your entry door should be two different things when it comes to the tax credit. Your entry door with the sidelights SHOULD give you numbers of 30 or less so that SHOULD meet the guidelines on it's own. For the storm door you would be paying an extra $100 (taking a wild guess) for that useless glass bringing your price to lets say $350....30% of that (rebate) is around $105 so you will spend an extra $100 to get in essence $5?

Also, looking at your pictures again your exterior wood on your entry unit needs painting a a good bead of poly caulking where it meets the sill. Those doors with pine (soft wood that loves to rot) meeting a metal sill that transfers water to the pine are designed to fail within 10 years unless you keep up with them (paint/caulk) at least once a year. All of that white paint that came from the factory is just a primer without any UV protection it will die within a year depending on your exposure.

 

If you have the 80" don't use the installer who wanted a special order sized door. 80" means a z-bar cut of 79.75 which sort of pushes the limits of a stock size but it can be done or that top trim can be moved up 1/4" to make everything more comfortable.

The entry door handle and the storm door will be close but as a worse case you will only need to extend your buildout out another 1/4" with two layers of bottom weatherstripping on the 4000 at least one of them will hit the sill.

Your storm door and your entry door should be two different things when it comes to the tax credit. Your entry door with the sidelights SHOULD give you numbers of 30 or less so that SHOULD meet the guidelines on it's own. For the storm door you would be paying an extra $100 (taking a wild guess) for that useless glass bringing your price to lets say $350....30% of that (rebate) is around $105 so you will spend an extra $100 to get in essence $5?

Also, looking at your pictures again your exterior wood on your entry unit needs painting a a good bead of poly caulking where it meets the sill. Those doors with pine (soft wood that loves to rot) meeting a metal sill that transfers water to the pine are designed to fail within 10 years unless you keep up with them (paint/caulk) at least once a year. All of that white paint that came from the factory is just a primer without any UV protection it will die within a year depending on your exposure.

Doug,

I want to be sure I am measuring the correct thing.. From the bottom sill, I am measuring to the red line in the attached photo. This is the bottom of the trim to the transom that sticks out a little. That measurement is approximately 80".

 

i ain't a good pimp:no:Lone on the other hand.....:shifty:

 

Pimpin' pimpin'.....:laughing:

 

That red line is where the brick molding typically would be, without the transom. You will need to build out the vertical members between the door and sidelights so that they are flush with that top trim. Make sure your packing allows for the proper width of the rough opening. Install stormdoor.:thumbsup:

 

Red line is correct.

"That measurement is approximately 80" <--That word that starts with "a" scares me, if it could mean 1/8" less your door will not work as designed. I would really suggest moving that trim with the red line up 1/4" or so until you get 80.25 dead on.....not with the "a" word.

 

Red line is correct.

"That measurement is approximately 80" <--That word that starts with "a" scares me, if it could mean 1/8" less your door will not work as designed. I would really suggest moving that trim with the red line up 1/4" or so until you get 80.25 dead on.....not with the "a" word.

Ok.. I went out and measured again and it is exactly 80".

 

I don't understand why the vertical jambs of the door can't be packed out and a standard door installed. 80" will work just fine. I use cedar pre-prime before you do it. Spanish cedar is ideal as it's a little denser.

Every time I order a door with side lights, and I know there is going to be a storm door on it, they do the packout from the factory and the storm door installs without a problem. I can't believe there are 4 pages on this thread from the OP to now about installing a storm door on a door with sidelights.
It seems straight forward to just build out those jambs, that is what they do from the factory when you order it with a storm door kit on it. 80-81 inches works and I've done a few that were just under 80. the expander is never tight to the door when it's 80 inches exact.

on another note, I hate storm doors. unless you go around doing them all day long every single day, you don't make any money on them. especially when people see that HD installs them for 70 bucks. or less at times. I won't do them except if an existing customer wants one and we happen to be working there doing other things, otherwise, it's not worth my time.

 

Every time I order a door with side lights, and I know there is going to be a storm door on it, they do the packout from the factory and the storm door installs without a problem.

on another note, I hate storm doors. unless you go around doing them all day long every single day, you don't make any money on them. especially when people see that HD installs them for 70 bucks. or less at times. I won't do them except if an existing customer wants one and we happen to be working there doing other things, otherwise, it's not worth my time.

I don't like the way ThermaTru does the "factory" build out. They just take a piece of 5/4 on edge on nail it to the vertical jambs. That is too weak to support the weight of the storm. I lay one 5/4 on the flat so it is the full 2" width of the jamb post then lay up another 5/4x1" on top of that. That way I have the step in the jamb the same as if this was a regular entry with brickmould around it. The 5/4x2" board gives it the extra strength.
Those $70 HD installs are underwritten by the storm door companies to push out excess inventory. This job with sidelight build outs would be more like $170 plus wood. I would normally set 4 or 5 of these a day.

 

Doug's got it. That photo showing the top corner of the jambs with only 1/4" +/- means your house doesn't have "normal" 1/2" sheathing. On a 4 9/16" jamb that should have been 1", then the brickmoulding.
I'm with Doug on the Andersen insulated storm door...big waste of money and the frames are too weak to support the glass. You may set the door good today, but within 6 months that edge is going to sag and the bottom corner will start dragging on the entry door threshold.