http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=24990&highlight=storm+doors In this thread I posted pictures on how to do it.

What is your measurement from the mull to your piece of wood under the transom?

What is your measurement from the mull to the front of your sill?

 

Bump everything out so that it is flush with the casing that connects the door frame to the transom. Bump out the top of the door jamb flush with the trim also, however rip this piece so it is only as thick as the reveal on the door jamb. Then install your door, hopefully the screws on your storm door header will end up hitting wood and not lining up exactly in the seam between the two pieces of wood, if so its not a big deal because the screws in the storm door header really don't do much, make sure that you caulk the storm door frame with you put it up as it will be slightly more exposed than on a normal door install. I hope they at least chose a nice storm door. Nothing I hate more than putting a $200 door on a $2,000 door system

 

reply

dougchips: yes i reviewed your previous before i posted because i didnt see anything about the header. i will get the measurements tonight when i get home...

patrick: i will talk this over with my installer dude tonight, hopefully he can make sense out of it or else i will just have it done by HD. i bought the Anderson full view about $350. i prefer Pella but HD doesnt carry them and Lowes is too far to drive...

i'll reply later and let you know what the status is.

thx for the replies all!

 

okay... talked with the installer and he said that because there is no 'brickmold' over the door he's not sure how to do it. he said the storm door frame would either hang below the header (eyesore) or stick above which would trap water and increase the possibility of water damage.

What is your measurement from the mull to your piece of wood under the transom? = 2 1/2"

What is your measurement from the mull to the front of your sill? 2 1/4"

here are some more pics:

 

more pix:

 

Get a different installer and a different painter. See if you can remove the piece of rounded trim that is over the door. I'm not sure if it is there to hide where the door frame and the transom frame meet, it will just collect water. If it is removed you should have your 2.25" and you can use the method that I showed with the pictures. Caulk behind the top "z-bar" (top frame piece for the storm door).

 

So who is this installer? Does he advertise on Craigslist?

By the way, I was at HD a few month's ago and there was a dude yelling at the customer service deck because he had a similar door system, purchased a storm door along with the installation. HD installer comes out rips some of the trim off, gets really baffled cant figure out what to do just left everything ripped apart and didn't come back!!!

 

okay i'll see if that trim can be removed.

lol... why do i need a new painter, not impressed with Ryan Homes subs skills?

 

the installer is not really an 'installer' he is just a friend i know who has been doing carpentry for 30+ years, he recently did a deck for me. i didnt go with HD because i thought i could do it myself, since i have installed storm doors before at my last house, but this whole bump-out thing i know not.

 

Are you going to let him do the build out a hang the door?

 

that's my intent. i have no doubt he can do a good job, its just that we both want to make sure it's done correctly.

 

the rounded trim piece looks like all one piece and that it is also part of the transom sill. so not sure if removal is an option..?

here is another pic with tape on it...

 

Better thee than me. It looks like another Ryan "exclusive". I think you're gonna need to do some very fine dimensioning of the storm frame, as it will hang. Then your going to have to mill some very custom jamb extensions for this. Don't rush and get ahead of yourself here cause you really do have a bastard situation there. I'm too tired to think this one thru now , maybe someone else will have a brainstorm over night. But this isn't one you want to just punt, think it all the way through before you start anything. I think I would have ordered "custom" size here.

 

will Andersen actually do 'custom' storm doors?

when i called and asked if they had any kits, they were like '''uh hrmmm duh'

if in fact the make cutom, then i will take this one back to HD and get a custom one.

 

will Andersen actually do 'custom' storm doors?
when i called and asked if they had any kits, they were like '''uh hrmmm duh'
if in fact the make cutom, then i will take this one back to HD and get a custom one.

http://www.stormdoors.com/beforeubuy/

 

I think they mean this..?

Sidelight Storm Doors

Available in 12" and 14" width by 80" height. They're a perfect insulating complement for home entries with sidelight windows.
​

 

Not all that familiar with Andersen storms--seems you aren't either. My point is, you will have to make sure that their minimum/maximum dimensions will work with your door jambs, and the extensions you're making, before you start . Else-wise you might wind up looking at the back side of the zee bars every time you open your front door to pay the paperboy. See what I mean? Other storms that I have used, offer custom sizing, and sometimes it makes more sense than a work around. If your sizes work, the links posted last night, and a little skill, ought to get you there.

 

cool, on the phone with them now, they have either a 'narrow mount kit' or 'z-bar extender kit' now to just figure out which i need... err, uhh, duhhhh!!!!

 

If the distance between your mulls is 35" and the distance from the sill to the top piece of trim is 80-81" you are all set. Since your measurement is 2.25" your should be all set leaving the piece of trim on the top.

 

Correct:
1.distance between mulls is 35"
2.distance from the sill to the top piece of trim is 80-81"

So, I can just put the 2" and 1" strips with 1/2" reveal on both sides, mount the door and be done with it?

 

Yes, make sure you pre-prime your wood and use a bunch of 2.5-3" exterior screws. Good luck finding good looking 5/4 kd stock (stay away from the home centers).

Try to keep your wood 1/32" off of the sill so it does not wick water. If you use an Andersen model 3000 or 4000 be sure to pre-sag the door before installing your top z-bar or your top reveal will be off.

Post of pictures of your completed project.

 

dont even think about using the 3000 USE the 4000 im sold on it and im not a fan of andersen

 

pre-sag?

i have the 3000. :blink:

do any of you live near Maryland/WashDC, want to earn some coin???

 

They are pretty much the same door EXCEPT on the 3000 you gotta pull those stupid plastic clips to change the glass and screen over, on the 4000 which is really not much more expensive, you push a button, turn the door lever, and the glass pops out I'm from MA like Doug, For some reason though people see my website and see MA and think it means Maryland and call me from Maryland looking for an estimate, Now seriously folks, if you live in Maryland wouldn't you firmly be able to grasp the concept of Maryland being abbreviated as MD

 

Patrick is correct, the 4000 is worth the extra money.

Pre-sag= install the door hinge side first. Put your left hand on the top of the handle side of the door, now put your right hand on top of your left hand, now remove both of your feet from the ground, this will force the door to sag. If you do not do this the door will sag over time and your top reveal will be off by 1/4".

$1200.00, round trip airfare from Providence and a rental car for 3 days (so I can visit family) and I will install the door.

 

Pre-sag= install the door hinge side first. Put your left hand on the top of the handle side of the door, now put your right hand on top of your left hand, now remove both of your feet from the ground, this will force the door to sag. If you do not do this the door will sag over time and your top reveal will be off by 1/4".

eh hem ummmmm Doug, great advice that may work for you and I but I got a few dudes workin with me that have a "pre-sag" of their own going on if ya know what I mean, not sure the door would hold up under the sorta stress they might place on it taken their feet off the ground.:w00t::w00t:

 

I should edit my post then, I can see some 400 monster breaking the door off falling down a flight of stairs and suing me.

Grupper, www.bookingbuddy.com is a good place to shop for my airfare.

 

You guys get a lot of doors like that back east? I scaled it off the pic, and it looks like he's got 3" door jambs. Round here, most are based on 4-1/2 or 4-5/8 jamb sets, and lites and transoms built to stay in plane. Only one I've run across like his was oooold, and had massive head trim between door and transom.

 

About 3.25", it because the builders are to cheap to order the prehung with sidelights "ready for a storm door", it only cost $15-$30 when the door is ordered. Our new construction jambs are 4.5" or 6.5". 95% of the doors in my area have 5.25-5.5" jambs because of the plaster and the plank sheathing.

Side note, we generally charge $100- $125 to build out the doors.