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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I sided my own home with cedar shingles spaced about a quarter inch. What is the way to get the stain in the gaps without destroying a brush every half an hour? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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KemoSabe
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I sided my own home with cedar shingles spaced about a quarter inch. What is the way to get the stain in the gaps without destroying a brush every half an hour? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Shame you didn't get them dipped beforehand, but maybe you could try an artists airbrush or something similar. That's a whole lot of PITA right there.:blink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I started out dipping them and it took roughly 1 gallon per box, with 38 boxes it wasn't in the budget. I have been spraying the joints and brushing them out but again it is killing the brush and I would rather not deal with straining the stain and cleaning the internal filter every 20 minutes. I'll post pictures soon, because it is coming out pretty nice despite the the fact that I am not a painter and never will be.
 

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just throw the stain on the wall and be done with it...:whistling
 

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Solid or semi-transparent? Oil or latex? The stiffer the brush the better, also most brushes are made to provide a soft finish. The bristles are split and tapered. If I had to brush every gap I'd use an angular with a thin square ferrule and possibly cut off the tips of the bristles. You're killing the brush anyway might as well experiment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am using oil based semi transparent. Hold the brush upside down to long and runs down your arm, although I have to say it is very forgiving. Well I just finished my cornflakes (late start today) and am going at it again. I'll do my best to love it. :thumbsup:
 

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Olympian brush by Arrow Worthy, it uses a synthetic china bristle. I sell the crap outa these to deck/siding refinishers. You could also look for a brush called a "Rough Rider". They work well too if you use a garden sprayer and back brush. Both of those brushes screw onto an extension pole. I'll fed-ex you a couple if you want :shifty:
 

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Id like to see some pics.. Why wouldnt an HVLP work on this? I wouldnt use a nap, you might spend more time picking the felt out of the wood =)... If all else fails HVLP and lots of rags =)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well today went alright, spraying the gaps only with gun and brushing the rest. I did three squares before having to refill the sprayer (gravity fed HVLP). I will post pictures when the trim is painted and I am going to go online and see about those brushes, can't spray to close to the overhangs and so on. Thanks so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The spray gun isn't slow it's just the fact that it has such a small reservoir. It cost me $69.00 and being a carpenter that's about as much as I'll ever spend on painting equipment. Now take the newest miter saw from Makita, there's something I can get excited about.
 

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EASY FIX!!! Get yourself a garden sprayer ( pump up chemical sprayer for weeds and such, you probably already have one ) Spray with that and back brush....screw that HVLP that is for small projects, cabinets and such.

*** that was my Miss Teen North Carolina impression...and such :clap:***
 

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Hudson Valley
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I started out dipping them and it took roughly 1 gallon per box, with 38 boxes it wasn't in the budget. I have been spraying the joints and brushing them out but again it is killing the brush and I would rather not deal with straining the stain and cleaning the internal filter every 20 minutes. I'll post pictures soon, because it is coming out pretty nice despite the the fact that I am not a painter and never will be.

Of all the forms of wisdom, hindsight is by general consent the least merciful, the most unforgiving.

Dipping was the right way to go, longest lasting finish, easiest to apply. Clothes line, pegs, and a trough to collect the run-off. 1 gallon semi-trans: two boxes no problem.

Best of luck.
 
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