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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i'm repairing rotten fascia with some recycled 2x12 from the building and some new. all the new 2x12 was primed with zinnser 123 and both new and old were topped with ben moore. the new lumber is bubbling over the zinnser!

thinking it was sun or rain i stripped the bubbled 2x12's and started fresh under cover but low and behold top coat bubbled again.

when i open or scrape the bubbles i see the primer sticking to the wood on some and it lifting on others.

i also did see a few but not nearly as many bubbles in the primer coat.

maybe the lumber sat in the rain for a bit before i bought it? anyone had this problem with new lumber? what am i missing? i'd appreciate your ideas.
 

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was it PT wood? 123 is an alkyd isn't it? I think it comes in both forms, water based and alkyd. Give it a few days in the sun if you can, if you can't then cover with a water based primer. 123 huh? You bought from bLowes Or home Creepo? You would have less problems with a wet board failing because of water if you used a water based primer. This has been my experience. It may not last as long, come back in the spring to see if it held up, if not reprim and recoat is about all youcan do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it is pt and yes oil primer and latex top. after sanding the top coat off i let it sit for 3 days. it was one of the zinsser products, bought it at the local lumber yard. what kind of prep and dry time should i do for pt? i hear 90 days to 6 months but thats unreasonable depending on the scope of the job.
 

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Could be tannin bleed, could be sap. New lumber is never cured properly anymore...

Is it bleeding thru in ring shapes?

I had a recent new wood siding job where the siding seemed dry and the manufacturer claimed it to be properly cured. Installed it, waited two weeks, Primed 2 coats (SW A100 oil), waited a full week, painted 2 coats (SW Duration Exterior). Looked beautiful. About 1 week after that, got sap bleeding and bubbling all over the place - worst on the side receiving direct sunlight.

SW rep came out, said it was improperly cured siding. Regardless, he comped me anyway for the primer and paint to re-do the job later in the year. Customer Service Baby!

BTW - just for giggles, I let the Behr rep come out and try his "top grade" oil primer too... :w00t::eek::jester:. Anybody want a mostly full gallon of behr oil primer? I'll never understand how consumer reports rate their products at the top of their list :rolleyes:.

Good Luck,

p.s. you culd try calling the 123 rep to come out to your jobsite and evaluate the situation :w00t:.
 

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Store Owner
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Ok first off lets know what we're talking about before tossing opinions around. 123 is LATEX, 100% positive, Zinnser Cover Stain is oil based.

Peeling is caused by moisture, tannin, mill glaze, or sap. Being that it is peeling immediatey, it has to be moisture, be it rained on, powerwashed or green wood. Scrape or sand the peeling areas, allow through drying, prime and repaint.
 

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Yep...too wet.

EXACTLY AS NCPaint1 said...
Simple as that.

Did you use a moisture tester?
If not...WHY?! :blink:
Anything above 12-15% will be too wet.
>>> The testers with the 2 little probes on them are best. It's the only way to truly know the risk of wet lumber.
>>> No matter HOW GOOD the primer is, water ALWAYS wins.
>>> Also...backprime wherever possible. This is crucial, but nobody seems to do it anymore. Then they wonder why paint releases well before it's time:blink::blink::blink:...

Faron
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
alright, so it was too wet then. i was looking into the moisture testing tools. which one is good for a painter? it seems like to get a real reading you have to spend some serious cash. any specific models you use Faron?
 

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Knowledgeable Tinter!
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Testers...

Duburban,
FPE dealers have/sell a Sonin Moisture-meter. Usually runs about $50:tongue_smilie:.
It has 2 short probes.

They (FPE) have a professional model from Storch described as a state-of-the-art German piece. "Built to last a lifetime", and "offers broader range of readings than the basic Sonin meter" the literature says...
Runs ~ $250 though :whistling...

HOWEVER...your cred/professionalism as a painter goes way up :blush: if you insist on testing the homes you're thinking of painting. You can avoid A LOT of trouble by doing simple tests:scooter:!!

Faron
 

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anytime I have had to paint PT Wood I let it dry out for two years before any paint or stain is applied:thumbsup: aint had a problem yet.
 
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