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I doubt they bleached these originally. Laundy bleach is sodium hypochlorite, wood bleach is oxalic acid. Two part wood bleach is hydrochloric acid & hydrogen peroxide (I think ).

Laundry bleach degrades the wood fibers.
Lye and H2O2
 

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MARK...... Good out-of-box thinking... I did wish I could.... I'm adding small 10" bar pullouts to existing string of 4 cab island. (Changing out mismatched granite and going two tier bar top.)

(Thought about complete remodel/update.... but not a good economic feasable investment considering market etc)

Best
If I read that right, and all you're adding is a front for the 10", you're way overthinking this... pop-off a drawer front and send it for color/species/edge match and be done with it... it'll save you a lot of potential headaches if you don't get it to match...

Sometimes it makes sense to do it yourself, or if you're interested in a challenge... other times, like this, it just makes sense to get it done from those who are equipped, skill and equipment, to do it... not going to cost you as much as you think...

Hope it all works out whatever you decide to do... don't forget the pics... :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #43
If I read that right, and all you're adding is a front for the 10", you're way overthinking this... pop-off a drawer front and send it for color/species/edge match and be done with it... it'll save you a lot of potential headaches if you don't get it to match...

Sometimes it makes sense to do it yourself, or if you're interested in a challenge... other times, like this, it just makes sense to get it done from those who are equipped, skill and equipment, to do it... not going to cost you as much as you think...

Hope it all works out whatever you decide to do... don't forget the pics... :thumbsup:
Kap.... I'm not really worried about the cost.

I have not found anybody local that can match that finish.

I have had a local MW shop do a perfect match of my door fronts.

Are you telling me if I ship off those raw doors, and a sample door, those shops you referenced can guarantee a match.... what if they miss... I'm out my two doors and a bunch of postage... and alot of work shipping / sending stuff back and forth.

If I could find a local finisher that knew what they were doing, I don't mind paying him. First, no one has realized it is a tinted sprayed laquor, and the two samples (just on oak board) I have had tested, both guys used a white pickle that was not a good match. I really don't want to F up the new doors.

I guess I'm not comfortable depending on someone that I can't see the test samples etc.

Thanks

Best

Peter
 

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Couldn't get photos to upload, created a Flicker album.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums/72157686798004905

This was the only piece of plain sawn red oak I had.

Sand to 180, water pop, sand to 150.

I decided to dilute the primer so you could see how the cuts react. I prefer the wet and dip method but I figured you may have more control if you dilute the primer.

Keep a spray bottle of water with you, just incase.

The cut ratio is on the sample.

Apply with chip brush, wait 60 seconds (you're in a desert, you may need to cut this time, when I'm in Denver the RH really affects my finish process), dab, wipe to blend.

The top coat is rattle can satin NC lacquer. Sorry, I'm set up to spray primer and paint right now, did not want to set up another sprayer for a few ounces.

I see no reason your doors can't be matched.

Tom
 

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I had to match a couple doors in the middle of a run a few years ago.

Got a "guarantee" from a woodworking specialist who dealt with designers and all that. They didn't match. Then I got the excuses.
 

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I had to match a couple doors in the middle of a run a few years ago.

Got a "guarantee" from a woodworking specialist who dealt with designers and all that. They didn't match. Then I got the excuses.
I always state as close as possible. I will never guarantee a perfect match, ever. To many conditions that can dictate the outcome. I've even had a tough time matching my own stains and I have the formulas and the left over stains.
 

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That's what this guy was saying after the fact, but it was obviously a miss. Tone and sheen were off. I was so p_ssed off after the waste of time, and I had a hunch it was futile.

Same thing happened another time (different cabinet guy) when I had to match a couple damaged thermofoil doors (adjacent the range). I knew I was getting wood instead, but the fr_ckin white wasn't even the same.
 

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Kap.... I'm not really worried about the cost.

I have not found anybody local that can match that finish.

I have had a local MW shop do a perfect match of my door fronts.

Are you telling me if I ship off those raw doors, and a sample door, those shops you referenced can guarantee a match.... what if they miss... I'm out my two doors and a bunch of postage... and alot of work shipping / sending stuff back and forth.

If I could find a local finisher that knew what they were doing, I don't mind paying him. First, no one has realized it is a tinted sprayed laquor, and the two samples (just on oak board) I have had tested, both guys used a white pickle that was not a good match. I really don't want to F up the new doors.

I guess I'm not comfortable depending on someone that I can't see the test samples etc.

Thanks

Best

Peter
Well, like I said, they can send you sample chips... but no-one is going to able to match the patina 100%... but let's put this another way... all they do is doors/drawers and staining/finishing them with the proper equipment, etc. to do it... Who do you think has a better chance of matching it, you or them?

We do our own stuff as well as outsource with suppliers...

But I guess it all depends on how much time, etc. you want to put into this...

Good luck on whatever you decide to do... :thumbsup:
 

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Awesome that you would do that, Tom.:thumbsup:
Agreed... :thumbup:

Pretty darn close doing it off an internet pic... Certainly in the same family (and not cousins :whistling )... :clap:

There's your sample chip Peter... now you know who to send it to with confidence of what to expect... :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Tom...... That was just phenominal of you helping me....... and Kap and HDavis and Mark and Leo and everyone.

Sincere Thanks to all....

I'm out of red oak right now, used up my spare pieces F'n with pickle, and have to make a 80 mile run early next week.

Tom.... I'm going to give your advice a try..... and I'll let you know as soon as I do.... but it might be a few weeks, as I'm due down in SoCal on Thursday putting final touches on my son's complete additions/remodel.

I'll test/ try both, but would your gut say a clear finish in laquor or oil poly.

Best

Peter
 

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Poly and lacquer look totally different, you can't match one with the other. I can't say from the photos, but you can bet it was lacquer originally.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I agree.... Guess I may want some "ambering".

I'll try both.... just looking for a gut best guess by someone that knows better than me....;)
 

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My best guess from the time frame, picture and your explanation of how the back of the panel sanded the top coat is nitrocellulose lacquer.

Tom
 
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