Single story?

 

header span

2 stories

 

2 stories

No, you can't. Is it and outside wall or inside wall, and what is it carrying above?

 

inside wall , load bearing, living space above, If I can't span this length what is max lenght I can span

 

Time to call in an engineer or architect, you won't get the permit without a stamp.

 

Joe,

Would putting steel in between give it enough strength to pass?

 

i really don't know, that"s why I am asking, I can frame it down, but i need to know the max length I can span without steel plate?

 

probably a couple of lvl's would make that span.

11 7/8" MAYBE depending on the load but 2 14" would do it i beleive.

talk to your lumber salesman they have beam calcs.

 

Does anyone here understand load calcs?

I honestly don't know how you can be a contractor and not be able to figure out simple beam calcs.

How can you tell him that 2 14" will do it when you have no idea what's sitting on top of it???

honestly...

2 14" LVL will carry approximately 1400 pounds per foot at 11'-6" at an L/360 deflection. Typical floor loads are designed at 50psf total load add it up.

 

so then will a double 2 x 10 carry the load????? Or what do I honestly need here to carry this load. will anything do it? Or do I need to frame it down, make the opening smalleer...I need help???

 

Kimmel,

It's not as easy as you make it sound.

Since you don't know how to figure it and obviously not getting an Architect or Engineer to figure it, you need to tell someone what is is carrying above.

What size floor joists.

What span the joists are at.

What the joist have sitting of them such as walls, bathrooms, bedrooms.

Is it the center wall and what size ceiling joists is that center wall carrying and what is the span of those joists.

Is there any point loads on that wall. In other words, is there a post coming down from the rafters to that wall.

Is there any microlams or beams perpendicular to that wall.


You can't just come here and ask what size header you need for an 11'6" span with a second floor above without doing your homework or paying someone to figure it out.

I've been framing in NJ for 23 years now and I can through out many answers for you from my experience but everything I do is all stamped from Architectural plans. I can come out and look at it tomorrow and tell you what I've pit in in your situation, but that won't mean anything.

You don't have to frame anything down. I rip out walls 22' wide and install steel. I rip out walls 16' wide and install microlams. I rip out walls 12' long and have to install double 2x10's with 1/2" flitch plates in between. The list goes on.

 

I appreciate your honesty. Just thought i could get some real feedback, such as yours. I have used all applications before as you have. I just wanted to find out some thoughts on the subject. All towns seem to have different thoughts on the subject. I just thougtht i tould get some proffesional thoughts on the subject?? I will have an architect give me the final answer tommorow. Just for piece of mind wanted to know tonight. thanks for your insight.

 

All towns seem to have different thoughts on the subject.

wrong.

The span tables are the same everywhere. These tables are based on actual live laboratory testing where beams were loaded until they reached maximum deflection and then until they completely failed.

 

Width of the building, center wall supporting upstairs, bathroom or bedrooms above, attic storage. The chart gives you a max of 5 foot for 2x10's. This is for clear spans, 50psf and a building width of 36ft. So your way off.

 

not an architect, an engineer. and check with your local building supply first, they might give it to you for free. leave architects out of it completely. they draw pretty pictures, not many times do they actually design structural.

 

well how about one of these then

5 ¼ x 18 parallam i do beleive that would carry the load

 

Carry what load? He never specified what the beam is carrying.

You people need to stop giving out dangerous advice that you are unqualified for.

And I second getting an engineer instead of an architect. They're cheaper and have less attitude and they'll be right. I've had many plans from architects that were completely unbuildable structurally.

 

Kimmel,

Any Architect from Jersey can handle this, it's no big deal.Tell me where you're from here or PM me, maybe I can recommend someone for you.

 

calm down brother

everyone SHOULD know that if you are not sure get an engineer.

my lumber salesman does very good specing beams for me

that is why i suggested it

 

I've had many plans from architects that were completely unbuildable structurally.

One of the most famous architects in american history is also famous for building a colossal masterpiece of structural ineptitude. Frank Lloyd Wright and Falling Water.

Most (sane) architects send their stuff to engineers anyways.

You hire engineers for structural design
You hire architects to draw prints
You call the lumberyard to get it for free

 

That's not true around here. Every plan I get from an Architect have all the structural design in them.

 

I got it the first time. What you don't get is that the plans you see were most likely sent back a few times to be corrected and properly detailed. I've spent more time than I like in many different architect's offices explaining structural problems with their plans and offering solutions. You never see this because it's been done by the time the plans get to you. Architects in NJ are no different than anywhere else. I have a masters degree in Architecture from the University of Minnesota (one of the best in the country) and I can assure that after 6 years in school you come out with very little understanding of wood frame structures from classwork.

Architects draw pictures, engineers make the pictures work and contractors build the drawings.
If you need help with a structural problem see an engineer, that's my point.

 

If you need help with a structural problem see an engineer, that's my point.

My point is that you don't have to see an Engineer for structural problems, you can call the Architect up who drew them or I can call any Architect that I know and ask them. I've never had to call an Engineer before for something structural.

I get plans from Homeowners that were drawn by themselves which is legal around here. I will question something I don't think makes sense and call an Architect that I know and get my structural answers.

How many time do I have to say that around here in NJ you don't have to get an Engineer to do structural work?

 

You don't need one here either. Pay attention. Any fool can draw plans for residential work. If you want I can tell you stories where architects spec'd "marine grade varnish" as a roof membrane. And, I mean high paid, well respected architects.

But I guess in New Jersey all architects know what they are doing.

right...

 

But I guess in New Jersey all architects know what they are doing.

right...

Now you pay attention. Why don't you stop with the Architects are better and they all know what they're doing in NJ garbage, because that's not what I said. You want to keep going on with that start another thread.

The point is AGAIN, that you DON'T NEED an Engineer for structural designs here, not Architects from NJ are the better than anyone else in the country and all know what they're doing.

 

nevermind

 

Joe, I didn't say that they never design their own structural, I said that most send it out. It's a liability issue for architects. Architects usually get errors and emissions insurance. They usually don't like to take on the liability of structural engineering. Doesn't mean that they won't or don't. Simple load bearing items are easy to design and they probably do in NJ. Who knows? You prolly do for NJ.

However, when you are talking about a single structural issue of load bearing, it makes more sense to call a structural specialist, an engineer. An architect is not a structural specialist. He draws the prints and he can do them, yes, but you are a framer and I bet you can do roofing and siding also. You specialize in framing, not roofing or siding.

I would say an architect is going to be more money than an engineer and way more than just going into the lumberyard and having them size it from GP or LP which will cost this guy NOTHING.

 

However, when you are talking about a single structural issue of load bearing, it makes more sense to call a structural specialist, an engineer. An architect is not a structural specialist. He draws the prints and he can do them, yes, but you are a framer and I bet you can do roofing and siding also. You specialize in framing, not roofing or siding.

You and I have been framing about the same amount of time from what you've said in another post, 20 plus years. i haven't met one Architect in over 20 years that can't design a structural beam for any plan I've framed from whether it's a house or addition. I call up any Architect I know and they can tell me what size beam to put any where.

It doesn't make sense to me what you guys are saying. My cousin is an Architect and I was talking to him last week about this stuff and he can tell me any size beam structural beam that will go anywhere on a house just like the rest of them. I will be with my cousin all day on Sunday and pick his brain.

I'm not saying that I haven't met any Architects that don't know what they're talking about because I have. I've had many plans in my life time that specked a beam that I thought was to small and called them up and questioned it and gave them an example of what size I've used in the same situation.

They said that they will get back to me and when they did they made a mistake on the plans and increased the beam to what I suggested.

Now are they calling up an Engineer for this because they don't know their ass from their elbow, I don't know, but the good ones that I talk too can tell me right on the spot.

I do know that some Architects will call an Engineer in for structural steel.

 

Here, it still has to go under review and get a permit issued so you get a double blessing.

 

thank you everyone, I got the info from the local lumber yard, they did all the calculations and the permit has been issued and the microlam has been installed and inspected. I appreciate all your help.